Rav4 fuel pump

with out changing whole light harness, get new socket w lengnth of wires still attached, splice it to old harness.Use best connect ions you can. solder, wrap in tape, electrical connectors wrap in tape. twist at least 7 turns of wire.wrap individually w tape.

F3 E2 is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or heating circuit failure. Check the water temperature sensor and check connections to the water temperature sensor.

Several people having this error needed to repair one of the wires to the sensor. - "There were 2 black wires that go to the water temperature sensor. The wires passed through 2 tie wraps that bonded them to a flange off the bottom of the washer drum. They were wrapped with electric tape inside the tie wrap. Prior to joining the bundle of wires that went to the motor, there was one more tie wrap around the 2 black wires. At this tie wrap there was no electric tape to pad between the wires and the tie wraps. One of the wires was nearly severed.
I replaced the wires. Tie wraps should not be used. They are often too tight and crush wires. Especially in a device that inherently has LOTS of motion."

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/electric-large-kitchen-home-appliances/484867-maytag-washer-mhwe201ywoo-error-code-f3-e2.html

You'll need needle nose pliers, small phillips head screwdriver, soldering iron, electronics-grade solder, socket screwdriver or 1/4" wrench, black electrical tape. Purchase necessary replacement jack. Remove plastic electronics cover plate, located on the back of the body, behind control knobs. This will expose the electronics cavity. Locate existing jack and its wire connections inside the exposed cavity. Remove any electrical tape covering the jack connections. Using a hot soldering iron, touch each of the two soldered input jack connections, one at a time, just until the soldered connection melts. Then, disconnect the associated wires (taking note of which wire connects where!). Once disconnected, loosen and remove the nut on the outer part of the jack that holds it onto the guitar body. Remove the old jack. Insert the new jack (with the nut removed) into the existing hole, from inside the electronics cavity and tighten it in place, on the outside of the guitar body, with the nut. Re-attach the wires to the new jack, by using needle nose pliers to wrap them tightly around the correct posts. Touch the hot soldering iron to each post and apply a small amount of solder to the post as it's being heated. Once the molten solder runs over the connection and looks shiny, remove the tip of the soldering gun. This process takes only 2 to 3 seconds. Let the connections cool for a few seconds. To insulate, wrap connections with black electrical tape. Replace cover plate.

Best is a salvage yard.

If you havethe time and a voltage meter with Aligator clips,

I have removed wiring harnasses then

1. Disconnect battery

Wire brush male connections.

2. Trime a nail file to fit in female slots and clean with file

3. Connect Resistance meter (I prefer those that sound off when a connection is present) to both ends of wire,

follow each wire inspecting for cracks in insulations or worn areas, bend stretch and twist as you run the length of the wire. If the sound from the meter stops or needle moves. you found the bad wire or break in the wire.

I then replace the entire wire some just remove the bad area and splice wire together.

For splicing,

Cut and trim wire,

slide electrical shring wrap (one inch each side of splice length)on wire away from bare wire,

press wire together

Twist

If in car cover area around wire with aluminum foil

Flux the bare wires

solder with a conventional soldering iron and leaded solder

slide electrical shrink wrap over the bare wires,

heat to seal

It is only time and this process is easy when done on a junk yard harnass then when complete, install in the car.

I mark the wires with a paint pen when they check out ok.

Be systematic and careful and when don slide a cabel sheath over harnass

There are several things you can do to reduce heat on a Can-Am Spyder.

1- Remove the plastic 'Splash Panels' under the frame below the motor. These were added NOT to keep water and debris off the motor, but to reduce noise to pass EPA noise standards. Removing these panels will not hurt anything and allows hot air to flow out and cool air to flow into the engine compartment.

2- Wrap the exhaust with exhaust wrap (found at any auto parts store). Start as far back on the 2 exhaust pipes as possible wrapping towards the front. Wrap all the way to the head on each pipe. 1" exhaust wrap goes around bends better, 2" takes less time. Overlap each wrap by 1/2 of the width of the material.

3- Adding a fuel management system (Two-Brothers Juice Box Pro or Power Commander system) will allow you to increase the fuel mixture to ideal levels. The Spyder runs very lean from the factory creating additional heat.

since there is no specific part in a wiring harness called "the pigtail". General wire connection instructions are: Cut back the wire at least 1/2" and wrap the wire ends together. Solder the connection so it has good continuity and won't come apart. Use shrink tubing to protect the joint and also wrap with good quality electrical tape, especially in under-hood areas where moisture can get into a connection. NEVER cut or tap into the heavy yellow wire under the dash. That wire controls the air bag system and tampering can cause it to deploy (very dangerous). Never solder wires together by laying them side by side. They will join, but the solder can act as a fuse and cause problems later.
If working with more than one wire, label them so you know exactly where they went so you can put them back correctly. In systems using computerized controls, a mistake can be costly.

#1 is the drivers front. The O2 your looking for is on the drivers side after the catalytic converter. You can certainly try to repair the wire. If you use a **** style connector make sure it is one with a heat shrink wrap to protect the wiring from corrosion. The best repair would be to solder the connection and then shrink wrap the joint. If the repair doesn't work you're only out a couple of bucks.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Check the wires that are inside the boot that runs between the drivers side door and the body of the car, there might be broken wires inside the boot, and any broken wires that you do find should be soldered well and use heat shrink tubing if you want the connection to last.

The best way to fix this is to open the case, strip both wires back to expose the wire, slide a shrink wrap insulator over each individual wire, and then solder the wires back together. When connected, slide the shrink insulation down over the solder connection and then use heat to shrink the insulation around your repair, then close the case back up.

Interesting problem. Not sure what the mechanic has tried - but I recommend that you test YOUR thought about heat on the fuel line. Try some aluminum foil wrapped on the line near and after any heat source... If that fixes it, YOU identified the problem . For perminent fix, just get some heat tape and wrap the line near any heat source and the 460 should be happy.