Most
washing machine timers are digital or mechanical. The timer controls
most of the operations of the washer: water level, tub filling and
emptying, length of cycles, and cycle setting sequences. For this
reason, any repairs to the timer should be made by a professional
service person. However, there are a couple of checks you can make when
you suspect the timer is faulty -- you may be able to install a new
timer yourself.
Step 1:
Unplug the washer. To access the timer, remove the control knobs and
the panel that covers the controls. This may be a front panel, or
access may be through a panel at the back of the unit. Carefully
examine the wires that connect the timer to the other parts of the
washer. If the wires are loose or disconnected, try pushing them into
position; they usually fit into their terminals like plugs. Use
long-nosed pliers to avoid breaking the wire connections -- never pull
a wire by hand.
Step 2:
To test the timer, use a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the power
leads to the timer and clip one probe of the VOM to each lead. The VOM
should read zero if the timer is working. Since the timer is a multiple
switch, turn it through its cycle and test each pair of terminals in
turn. The meter should read zero at all of these points. If one or more
readings are above zero, the timer is faulty and should be replaced.
Step 3:
To replace the timer, unscrew and disconnect the old one. Install a new
timer made specifically for the washing machine. If there are many
wires on the timer, have a helper hold the new timer next to the old
one as you work. Disconnect the old wires one at a time, connecting
each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections
are properly made. Or, draw a diagram showing the connections before
removing the old timer. After all the wires are connected, check the
connections again for correctness and screw the timer assembly into
place.
In the next section, we will examine two of the most
crucial elements of a washing machine -- the water inlet valves and the
agitator.
Servicing Water Inlet Valves
If
the washer won't fill or fills very slowly, if it overfills, or if the
water is the wrong temperature, the water inlet valves could be faulty.
These components are easy to locate and very easy to replace, at little
cost. When you suspect an inlet valve is faulty, first check to make
sure the water faucets are fully turned on and properly connected to
the hot and cold inlets of the valves. Then check the screens in the
valves; if they're clogged, clean or replace them. If water doesn't
enter the tub, set the temperature control to the HOT setting. If there
is no water, set the control to the WARM setting. If all that comes out
is cold water, the hot-water inlet valve is faulty. Reverse the
procedure to test the cold-water valve, setting the control first on
COLD and then on WARM. If the tub overfills, unplug the washer. If
water still flows into the tub, the valve is stuck open. In any of
these cases, the valves should probably be replaced. To check the valve
assembly:
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
If an inlet valve is faulty, check the water connection and the
valve screens. Try gently tapping the solenoids;
if this doesn't work, replace the inlet valve assembly.Step 1: Remove the back service panel and disconnect the hot-water and cold-water hoses to the valves.
Step 2:
Remove the hoses connected to the valves inside the cabinet. Also
disconnect the wires from the terminals. Back out the screws holding
the valves to the machine. The inlet valves have solenoids (a coil of
wire that carries a current) inside the housing. These can be tested,
but chances are the valves are simply worn out.
Step 3: Tap the solenoids with a
screwdriver
handle. If this doesn't work, replace the entire inlet valve assembly.
Repairs usually cost more than a new part. Make sure the replacement
valve assembly is exactly the same type as the old one. Install it in
reverse order of the way you disconnected the old one.
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