Question about Makita 10" Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw
The cord has been tested for continuity and is okay, no shorts. The switch has five wires, black, white, yellow, red (pink) and orange. Tested the switch (not depressed) from the plug on the large terminal (white) and had continuity on the switch to the white wire and also the red (pink) since it is on the same block in the switch. Tested the switch (not depressed) from plug on the small terminal (black) and had continuity on the switch to the black wire. Tested the switch (DEPRESSED) from the plugs large terminal (white) and had continuity on the switch to the white and red (pink) wires. Tested the switch (DEPRESSED) from the plugs small terminal (black) and had continuity on the switch to the black and orange wires. Tested continuity on switch from yellow and red (pink) wires with switched NOT depressed, got continuity and NO continuity with switched DEPRESSED. Checked the bushings on the motor and they look good.
SOURCE: makita table saw switch wiring
After much trial and error, a little smoke, and wrecking one replacement switch, I solved a similar problem with my Craftsman Cmpd Mitre saw. Different saw, but likely the same principles are involved.
If the switch is a double pole single throw switch, with one side normally open (N0) and the other normally closed (NC), and the saw has a separate wire for the brake, this will probably work.
One side of the switch should have contacts that are normally open (NO) and only connect when the switch is ON. The Hot (Black) wire from the plug connects to the wire on the machine side (red or maybe black) through this NO side. So, connect these two wires via this NO side and the saw will run when the switch is ON but will have no brake; so far so good.
There should be another wire (Not the neutral white) which is the brake wire. This gets connected to one of the connection sites of the Normally Closed (NC) side of the switch. From the other connection site of this NC side run a short "jumper" wire (of the same guage as the other wires) to the Machine Side of the NO side of the switch (same place as that Red or Black? wire above) .
What seems to happen is this:
There's no power to the machine or the brake when the switch is OFF. Turn it ON and power goes from Hot through the NO (now closed) side and the saw runs. The brake doesn't run when the saw runs because the NC switch is now open. Turn the switch OFF and the NC switch is in fact closed and power is transfered to the brake via the jumper wire from the still spinning armature which now acts as a generator (alternator?). Once the brake has done its job and the armature stops spinning there's no power anywhere until you turn the switch ON again.
Or at least that's the theory, and in my case it works; no more smoke.
Posted on Feb 04, 2009
I would unplug tool and check the condition of the brushes. If they are worn excessively or burnt the tool won't work. Let me know what you find and I will try and help more.
Posted on Nov 16, 2010
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there are 2 black screw caps on the outside of the tool that need to be removed. USE a good quality blade and right size to avoid chipping the caps. UNPLUG TOOL first and remove the old ones and replace with new and reassemble. They might arc for a short period of time depending on the commutator wear. Run at NO LOAD for about 10 minutes. Let me know if you still have a problem
Posted on Apr 17, 2012
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