Not dryingi replaced thermal cut off and it went out again after 1 mo

Check that the temperature sensor is working correctly. If it is covered in scale or otherwise faulty it may be causing the machine to leave the heat on longer than it should. If you have a multi meter use it to monitor the resistance through the ntc (providing the machine uses this kind of temperature sensor) as the temperature rises. It should be fairly linear. Try cleaning the sensor or replacing it. Also check to see if the heat is turned off when the water reaches the correct temperature.

Replacing a thermal fuse on a dryer is usually pretty easy. Getting to it sometimes isn't and figuring out which one it is because there are normally, in my experience more than one. I would suggest leaving it apart so that you can run the unit after replacing the thermal cut off switch to make sure it heats up. Sometimes that thermal cut off went bad because something else over heater or drew to many amps like the heating element and it may need replaced too. If this thermal cut off is in the same housing as the heating element run a continuity test on the heating element before reinstallation and that will tell you if it need replaced as well. Best if luck to you.

Error 1 is a defect in the steam heating unit.
Possible solutions:
Thermal sensor is defective -replace.
Cable to the thermal is broken or contact pins are corroded - replace, repair.
Heating or thermal cut-out are defective - measure and replace parts if required.
Triac on the power board is defective. The heater heats up triggering the overtemperature protection - Replace the overtempereature protection (thermal cut out) and the power board or the single triac.

Hi Warren Fink
Try this solution to your problem

A vent clogged with lint can cause the dryer to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
Please take time to rate me
Bud

sounds like you have a bad control board on unit.and the reason the thermal fuse went out is one of the relays are getting stuck on unit. before long the fuse will go bad again when the resistance level gets to high again. i would replace the control board and you should be fine...good luck to you...

Two cut off units will not be bad, and they should reset when cooled. Check your air flow. pull the hose off of the back of the machine, turn it on and form an opinion of the volume and force of the air flow.....Hook everything back up, turn on machine, go outside and verify VERY SIMILAR air volume and force.

If the air is restricted, the system will overheat and the limiters will trip.

I have 2003 Saturn Ion. I had this problem over and over 2006 - 2008. IT IS THE IGNITION SWITCH. IT IS DEFECTIVE IN ALL ION'S.The replacement may be defective also, not sure. Mine was driving fine, went ino store for 1 hr came out stone cold dead, would not start and key **** in. Had to have towed to Saturn. They said it was battery and replaced battery.I said this did not make sense. 6 yr battery only 3 yr old , never weak start, never run down, in summer? It happened again 2 mo later. They tried to say battery , I said no. They checked battery. It was fine. Could not find problem. They did total electrical check. It happened again 1 mo later. drove into feed store. Went in came out it happened again. I got jump from someone 30 min later and started right up. 2 wks later same, I got jump 20 min later started. 1 mo late same. Sometimes it would just start up. Took to another Saturn place. They said Ignition switch, saturn was having big problem with this on Ions. Got changed and no problems for 1 yr. I was talking to repesentative at Saturn Headquarters. I told the problem. They said the ignition switch has an electrical component, or it is hooked to electrical component. THEY SAID IF I HAD JUST SAT THERE 20 MIN WITH KEY OFF, THE COMPUTER CHIP FOR IT WOULD HAVE RESET ITSELF WHEN IT COOLED DOWN AND I COULD HAVE STARTED IT EACH TIME. IT WAS BEST TO GET REPLACED AND NOT WORRY, BUT THIS WILL HELP YOU IN A STRESSFUL PINCH, UNTIL YOU CAN GET THE IGNITION SWITCH REPLACED. NOTE: Go to Auto Zone , O 'Reilleys, Pep Boys etc, get a repair manuel , CHILTON $ 23- $ 25 , for your year , make, model car. CHILTON IS MUCH BETTER THAN HAYES MANUEL. It is wonderful and many things you can do yourself.

the thermal cut off located on the back of the oven has probably tripped,common problem. replace thermal cut off.

Dont know the model number you have, but most of your items are located in the back of the unit. You need to make sure you replaced the thermostat, and not just the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse sits on top of the element shield, the thermostat is lower, down where the wires go into the element. You may have changed the thermal fuse, but the thermostat may be out. You will need to check (with an ohm meter) all the componants to find the trouble. If that thermal cut-off has went bad again, change the thermostat with it. Be sure you have very good ventilation all the way through, bad vents will cause problems like this all the time. Let me know if you need parts info. Let me know a model number as well.

Your thermal cut-out went bad, needs to be replaced.