Question about Pride Celebrity X 4-Wheel Electric Scooter
Posted by Anonymous on
Download the otherwise fairly useless Pride owner's manual, the beeper codes are listed there.
Posted on Jun 02, 2016
It is often a damaged accelerator (Potentiometer). Sometimes the shaft on the wigwag breaks the contacts in the accelerator from being moved too vigorously when going over a bump too fast. A technician would need to repair this for you. Happy scooting. Regards Chris… [email protected]
Posted on Jun 22, 2009
Usually when a scooter dies, there is an event that preceded the dead state that caused the fault. What were you doing before it went dead?
The biggest culprit for scooters and power chairs is moisture. With a scooter, there are two components most susceptible. One is located inside the top of the tiller and it is an electonics board about 6"x4" in size. If you had the scooter out in the rain without protection over the tiller, water can encroach into this area and short the board. Or, a coke or coffee spill can short it. There's a fuse on the board and if it is blown, then likely the board is shot as the fuse merely keeps the tiller from going into a total meltdown in the event of a short. Boards run about $25.00 to $45.00 to replace. Inspect it and look for any signs of overheating or corrosive buil-up and see if the fuse has blown.
The second component is located under the shroud beneath the seat. It is a small metal box which is the power control module and it controls all of the operations of the scooter. It has several wires going into and coming out of it (on-board chargers for some scooters will only have one wire going in and one coming out, sometimes two). These boxes are water resistant, but are susceptible to damage if the scooter has been run through a puddle and a lot of water has splashed up onto it. These are several hundred dollars to replace, but first check all of the fuses coming off the batteries that will lead from the battery to this control box and insure that it isn't a blown fuse. These fuses generally don't blow unless the scooter was operated beyond its capabilities, like driving it in sand, mud or other unstable terrain that puts an enormous strain on the motor and pulling a lot of juice from the batteries. Finally, check all of the connections that clip together. Don't rely on a visual inspection, take them apart, and reconnect them all to insure a good, tight fit.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
My Mother buggy does the same and you can damage the gearbox, so I use a elastic try down to the bumper this stops it from moving but should there be a need I can remove it.
the Freewhel mech may have come loose so check it out.
Posted on Oct 12, 2009
I suspect that the electromagnetic brake has seized. I have come across this a few times on some of the larger pride scooters, usually if they have got wet and been left for a while. They can normally be free'd off. First, loosen the left hand rear wheel nut (the one in the middle of the wheel). Put the scooter into freewheel and jack the rear wheels off the ground. Remove the left hand rear wheel and be carefull not to lose the hub key which locates between the axle and hub of the wheel. Unplug the wire that comes out of the brake, then remove the brake from the end of the motor. Before going any further, check to see if you can move the disk inside the brake (the disk is the black part that you can see on the inner side of the brake with the hexagon cut out). If you can move this disk at all, the brake is NOT seized. While at this stage, plug the brake connector wire back in , turn on the scooter and press the throttle lever. If the motor spins, you can discard the motor as being of any promblem. If the brake IS seized, it will need to be dis-assembled. Dis-assembling the brake usually requires the removal of 3 or 4 small allen headed bolts on the rear of the brake, followed by some spacers, small washers and a small ball bearing or two. Watch what comes off and in what order, and be carefull not to lose any parts. Free off the black fibre type disc from the metal plate that it is stuck too. This can be done using a small hammer and large flat bladed screwdriver taking care not to damage the disc. Lightly rub the metal plate with fine grade wet and dry to remove any rust or dirty deposits, then re-assemble the brake in the reverse order, and refit the rear wheel making sure you apply a small amount of grease to the axle shaft.
This should work for you but failing that, I think you will need a new brake assembly.
Hope I have been of some help to you.
Posted on Sep 27, 2010
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