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Generally, there are two possible problems- The horn diaphragm is blown or the power amp to the horn is broken. The diaphragm being blown is more likely. Remove the driver and run a voltmeter across the terminals. If it doesn't show continuity, replace the diaphragm. If it does show continuity, take the cabinet to the repair shop.
There are a number of versions of SP-3, but normally you would remove the screws holding the horn into the cabinet, take out the horn and then unscrew the driver from the horn. At that point, either replace the diaphragm on the driver or the whole driver.
The two input jacks are parallel connected, to allow you to chain extra speakers together. There is no facility on this model to bypass the crossover and bi-amplify horn and driver separately. Nor should you need to. Just make sure you use a power amp rated for at least 400 watts per channel at 8 ohms.
Either components in the SoundGard circuit are blown or the horn driver... VERY SLIGHT chance wires have become disconnected. Open unit an inspect. Use ohmmeter to check the polyfuse and the lamp for open circuit indicating they are blown. Your amplifier should be rated at NO MORE than 150 Watts RMS continuous for safety of the horn. Speaker ratings are based on advertising... so don't believe the specs on power handling... If you dig into the specs you will find for the horn a max of 150 Watts continuous.
First thing is to test the horn as the crossover circuit may be the problem. If you need the part(s) for the crossover you can get them via DIgiKey.com, however repalcing the horn driver you may have to go through FullCompass.com and if the part has to come from Behringer it takes months.
i) I believe you can access the fuse by removing the Input Jack Panel.
ii) If fuse is OK, then unscrew the horn unit, take off one speaker wire & measure resistance. If it is open circuit then you can order a replacement horn diaphragm (if you feel confident to fit it to the horn).
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