How for replacing a float - Polaris 280 In - Ground Pool Cleaner with Booster Pump

Question moved from Cars and Trucks to Liberty Pumps 404.

That is a warranty issue. Floats should not swell up. Contact them direct.

https://www.google.com/search?q=liberty+404+pump+swollen+float

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replace float it has fuel in it

The suggestion you received of tapping the bowl is one that sometimes works. I think this time NO. Remove the carb bowl, and check to see if the float is plastic, brass, or foam (hard pressed plastic). Plastic and brass can leak gas inside weighing float down, shake float and listen for gas slushing around inside float. If you have one of those hard pressed plastic floats, they also absorb gas and become heavy and incapable of floating. In this case replace what you have, with a new float. Also check the needle valve tip, if broken replace. The quad will turn over, but not start because engine is flooded. Remove plug and let inside dry out, replace everything and you should start OK. GOOD LUCK FRIEND.

Either something is stuck in the float bowl valve or similar. You will need to shut off of the gas, drop the float bowl, check that the float move and closes the valve. If everything looks good and the valve actually closes, then there is a chance the float is fuel logged, or soaked with fuel. It won't float then. Replace the float, clean and/or replace the valve, clean the seat and check for scoring. New gasket on the float bowl, tighten it up, and you should be set.

Hi, there should not be fluid in the float and it will need to be replaced. Regards Phil.

Remove carb float bowl. Clean bowl. Observe float bowl screw, look for hole thru bolt, if present use thin wire to clean out. Float should be hanging freely and gas should be flowing, raise float gas should stop. Pinch off gas line or use shut off valve. Remove pin from float, remove float and needle meter. Use thin wire to clean out passage were meter needle is inserted, wire should pass thru to behind choke. Replace float & meter needle. Replace float bowl. Pull rope half way several times. Inspect primer bulb for cracks or leak. Try to start, may take 5 or more pulls to prime.

Check the float on the back of the machine. If that is full of water, it seems to provide enough drag to force the chain of the drive gear.

I have practically replaced the entire inside of my machine, and learned the hard way that the mechanics are pretty sound.

Note that Polaris appear to have adopted a "rip the customer off on spare parts" strategy. I had to purchase the entire 'redesigned' back for 90 bucks in order to replace a float that should have cost around 10-15 (IMHO) dollars.

SO ----
1) Check the float to confirm my theory. If the float is full of air, it's back to the drawing board. If not, carry on with the following instructions.
2) Lift the 'tail' of the polaris that clips the float in place
3) GENTLY try to pull the float out (newer models appear to have it screwed into place). If it comes out easily, carry on to step 5
4) If it does not come out, you will have to remove the entire back, and then unscrew the float.
5) Locate the collar that sticks out from the bottom of the float, and drill a small hole, into the middle of the collar, and through the float's wall
6) **** all the water out of the float
7) Fill the seam that joins the halves of the float together , AND the hole you drilled, with plumber's epoxy.
8) replace float
9) If necessary, replace the back of the polaris.

Hopefully you will get a few more summers out of your machine before having to replace the float altogether.

Good luck

Either the float level is too high or there is debris in the float needle seat. This causes the carb to overflow while running. The fix is:
- Remove the main fuel line with the fuel selector off of you have one.... or pull the line and plug it off / keep the end above the fuel tank then
- Remove the float bowl from the carb.
- Pull the float pin and remove the float and float needle (INSPECT float needle rubber tip for damage or dirt... any damage replace float needle and seat.)
- Spray carb cleaner into the main fuel supply hose / manfold fitting on the carb. Your removing any debris that night be in the float needle seat area
- Spray carb cleaner in all open fuel jet passages without dis-assembly of the carb.
- Reinstall the float needle and float (Float pin too!)
BRIEFLY reconnect the main fuel line
GENTLY lift the float to level.... (Incoming fuel flow MUST stop) Lower float.. (fuel must flow)
If the fuel flow does not stop with the float level.. you must replace the float needle snd seat. After needle and seat replacement if fuel still does not stop with the float level the tab where the float needle is will have to be bent UP no more than 0.010 at a time and then re-test flor fuel stoppage with float level. Adjust tab as necessary to get the float level correct.
- re-assemble carb
- test... running and static.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

sounds like your getting back flow thru the lines

If the water lifts the float all the way up or the float is submerged, the water level is too high. Overfilling is likely a problem with the float or float switch. The float is located inside the dishwasher in the tub area. As water enters the tub, the float device will rise. When the float rises to a certain level it triggers the float switch, which in turn, turns off the water flow. In some dishwashers, the float switch is only used to prevent overfilling and the amount of water is regulated by the timer.

Before testing the float assembly, unplug the dishwasher or shut off the power at the fuse box or breaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard.



To inspect the float assembly, open the dishwasher and remove the bottom rack. Remove the float cover (if any; it can be identified by the fact that the cover does not move up and down). The cover may snap in place or it may be fastened in place with a screw.

Lift and drop the float several times. It should move freely. If the float sticks, it may prevent the dishwasher from filling or draining properly. Remove the float and look for obstructions that may interfere with its free movement. The float usually snaps in place. If it does not come off with a small force, it may have to be disconnected from the float switch first.

You will need to Replace the float and float cover, If you found no obstructions and the problem persists, test the float switch.

TESTING PROCEDURE



To access the float switch remove the lower panel located beneath the door. The panel is usually held in place with two screws either above or below the panel. It may be necessary to first open the door to the dishwasher to reach the screws over the panel, then close the door to remove the panel.

Note the location of the float in the dishwasher's tub and you will find the float switch beneath it in the access area. The switch has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. With the probes still in place, depress the button or lever on the switch and the reading should change to the opposite extreme.

If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.


NOTE_ If the float, and float switch check out ok, and there are no issues here, the culprit will be a faulty water inlet valve. replace the valve in this case.