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The starters on some engines require the addition of shims to provide proper clearance between the starter pinion gear and the flywheel. These shims are available in 0.015 in. (0.4mm) sizes from Buick, Oldsmobile and Pontiac dealers. Flat washers can be used if shims are unavailable.
Important: disconnect the negative battery cable before proceeding.
Raise the vehicle to a convenient working height and safely support it with jackstands.
Remove the exhaust crossover pipe.
Disconnect all wiring from the starter solenoid. Replace each nut as the connector is removed, as thread sizes differ from connector to connector. Tag the wires for later connection.
Remove the flywheel housing cover and disconnect the oil cooler lines at the transmission, if necessary.
Starter removal on certain models may necessitate the removal of the frame support. This support runs from the corner of the frame to the front crossmember. To remove:
Loosen the mounting bolt that attaches the support to the corner of the frame.
Loosen and remove the mounting bolt that attaches the support to the front crossmember and then swing the support out of the way.
Install the crossmember and mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 80 ft. lbs. (109 Nm).
Remove the front bracket from the starter and the two mounting bolts. On engines with a starter solenoid heat shield, remove the front bracket upper bolt and detach the bracket from the starter.
Remove the front bracket bolt or nut. Lower the starter front end first, then remove the unit from the vehicle.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure that any shims removed are replaced (please refer to the shimming procedure). Torque the two mounting bolts to 25-35 ft. lbs. (34-48 Nm). Connect the starter wires and install heat shields if removed.
Remove the starter motor with a ratchet and socket and then unplug any electrical connectors from sensors or components attached to the transmission. Remove the sensors and components with a ratchet and socket.
Remove the header-exhaust pipe with a breaker bar and socket, if you believe you will need more room to secure and maneuver the transmission out of the vehicle.
Unfasten the transmission to mount, mount to crossmember and crossmember to frame bolts with a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. Detach any brackets from the bell housing or rear of the transmission housing with a ratchet and socket. Secure the transmission with a transmission jack and raise the transmission just enough to remove the mount and crossmember supporting the transmission. OEMScan GreenDS GDS 3 Professional Diagnostic Tool Support Online Update
on the right side of the bike, look down below the chrome end cap on the transmission on the frame. There is a hose with a steel plug in it or the hose plugs onto a crossmember of the frame. If it plugs onto the crossmember, look underneath that crossmember for the plug. I'm sure what year they move the drain. It's behind the exhaust pipes.
Release the fuel system pressure using the recommended procedure.
Remove the fuel pump unit through the access panel in the floor of the trunk. Drain the fuel tank into a portable fuel siphoning container through the opening in the fuel tank where the fuel pump is mounted.
Prior to disconnecting fuel lines, wrap a shop rag around the connections to absorb any fuel spillage due to residual pressure in the lines.
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove both rear tires.
Remove the exhaust pipe rubber insulators off the mounting studs of the rear of the vehicle and in front of the fuel tank.
Using grease pencil or paint marker, place alignment marks on the fuel filler hose, filler tube, vent hose and vent tube.
Remove the rear splash shield from the right rear wheel well.
Disconnect the fuel filler hose and the vent hose near the fuel filter.
Disconnect both ends of the sway bar from the stabilizer links. Use a grease pencil or paint marker to outline the position of the crossmember ends on the frame rail.
Remove the crossmember mounting bolts and pull the crossmember down until it stops.
Place a transmission jack under the fuel tank to support its weight.
The sway bar bracket bolts must be replaced after loosening or removal. Only use original equipment bolts as replacement.
Remove the sway bar mounting bracket, heat shield and fuel tank strap. To prevent the sway bar from falling down, install sway bar mounting bracket with the bolts finger-tight only.
Carefully and slowly lower the front of the fuel tank. Slide the tank away from the crossmember while pushing the filler vent and fill tube over the crossmember. Detach any remaining fuel or electrical connections. Lower the fuel tank.
Position the tank on the transmission jack or other suitable lift, with the shield and the tank strap in place. Raise the tank over the crossmember and place it in the proper position. Be sure that the electrical connector, pressure relief/rollover valve hose, fuel supply and return lines are accessible through the opening in the trunk. Check to be sure that nothing is pinched or kinked in any way.
Push the vent and the filler tube over the crossmember. Rotate the sway bar into position and install the sway bar brackets.
Raise the tank into place and position the sway bar mounting bracket and the tank straps in place. Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
Raise the crossmember into position and align with the locating marks made during removal. Install bolts and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
Reconnect the filler tube and vent tube making sure to align with the marks made during removal.
Connect the sway bar ends to the link arms and tighten sway bar mounting nuts to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
Install the exhaust onto the hangers. Install the rear splash shield in the right rear wheel well.
Install the rear wheels and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts, in a star pattern sequence, to 95-100 ft. lbs. (129-135 Nm).
Lower the vehicle.
Install the fuel pump module.
Connect the fuel supply, return and vent tubes. After installation of the quick-connect fittings, check for proper connection by pulling back on the quick-connect fitting. The tube should lock in place. If the connection is not complete, make sure the black plastic ring is not causing the locking retainer to jam in the release position.
Install the fuel pump access cover and gasket. Tighten the fasteners and install the trunk liner.
Install the filler cap and reconnect the negative battery cable.
With the ignition in the ON position, access the DRB III ASD Fuel System Test to pressurize the fuel system. Check for leaks.
Check the rear wheel alignment and adjust, if necessary.
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Can you post a pic of the bracket? The only triangular bracket I can think of on this install is on the drivers side of the crossmember. It goes on the bottom and the two thru bolts for the crossmember go thru the bracket.
yoy have to takke the h pipe down, take out mt . mount bolts trans crossmember bolts, drop h. pipe when you jack up engine you will havw to take steering loose from rack and pinon. push trans all the way over should give you enough room to do what you need to do.
super easy even a novice mechanic can have one out in a little over an hour, lift it in the air about as high as you can get it put jack stands under it disconnect the drive shaft loosen the exhaust, doesnt need to come off remove the starter remove the slave cylinder remove the shifter from the top 4 screws and 4x8mm bolts and 1x10mm bolt holding the wires running to the trans. remove the bolts that connect the motor to the trans there are 6 really that hold it with several other nuts on top holding wires and such. remove the 4 bolts that hold the crossmember and the bolt to the trans on the crossmember, stick your jack underneath the trans and remove the crossmember. pull the trans straight back and lower. even without the right tools you can have this done in about 30min