Question about Dyson Inc Am05 Hot Cool Fan Heater - 300095-01

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Hot-cool ha when will heater be returned?

Posted by Anonymous on


1 Answer


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Hi there, it's Jack at Dyson.

If you've returned your AM04 or AM05 heater to us for the engineering fix following the recent voluntary recall, we'll have it back with you as soon as we're able to. Our aim is to retrieve, fix, clean and return all affected heaters as quickly and painlessly as possible - this is free for all affected Dyson owners.

If you'd like to get in touch to discuss your concerns, please visit

Posted on Sep 29, 2014


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2015. Why doesn't temperature control return from hot to cold?

The heat for the cabin is taken from the circulating water in the engine cooling system. When you operate the knob/dial, it activates a valve which allows the water to flow through the venting system. It is possible that the valve may be malfunctioning, so that when you return to colder air, the hot water is still circulating.

Cool air coming from vents

The two lines are 1. the hot water coming from your radiator and 2 the return water coming out of the heater core going back to the radiator. If the hose is hot which it should be and the return is less hot which it should be, it sounds like you have an issue with the temp controls part inside the vehicle. It is electronic I think so that is more than likely your problem.


is the blower fan running? if not check fuse, blower motor relay, & blower motor.
did you vent (some call it burp) the cooling system? if not search. try this: put car in an inclined position (radiator highest). while coolant is COOL remove radiator filler cap (reservoir filler cap if none in the radiator). set heater to maximum heat. run engine. turn on fan. while radiator is warming watch, if not been vented, air bubble may come out, you may have to add coolant to adjust level as necessary. replace radiator filler cap. check reservoir coolant level too.
if return hose from heater core stays much colder than the supply hose, suspect there's blockage/s in the heater core. (flush heater core again. disconnect both heater core from the engine, attach garden hose to the return, run water till clean water comes out from the supply hose - you don't have to do this if this was the procedure you did).
thermostat: take it out & see if it's stuck open.

1997 Taurus ford GL 3.0,6cyl. Heat runs cold to

Some early cars have what is referred to as a hot water valve under the hood . It is hooked in one of the heater hoses , the supply side . The other hose is the return side , once the hot coolant goes through the heater core it goes back to the engine to get heated up again. This hot water valve is operated by engine vacuum. If you look at the fire wall or bulkhead , you should see two hoses going into the inside of the vehicle. those are the heater hoses. look for the valve on one of them. If you vehicle doesn't have one of this valves , you possibly have a mode or blend door problem . Does you car have Electronic Automatic Temperature Control or manual A/C-heater system ? The heater blower does work , all speeds ?

Rad hot top to bottom new stat fitted pies into heater matrix one hot other cool rad back flushed and heater mattrix

Be sure that cooling system has been bled properly after . Start engine while cold with cap off, and heater on. Let engine get up to normal operating temperature and allow thermostat to open and close 2 or 3 times and rev engine slightly once in a while for 5 seconds or so to help improve flow. If you have rad where you can actually look in and see flow, that's better otherwise watch coolant return bottle and temperature gauge. Feel if any difference at heater as you bleed air out. Once you start to feel better /good heat, then it should be bled properly, then top up coolant return bottle and re-install cap properly. Let me know if that helps.

Ac not cooling blows hot on both sides. how do i know if compressor is kicking on?

Don't forget the DCCV. those act funny (not ha ha.) you can pinch the middle heater hose to stop hot coolant from entering cabin This will narrow down your issues and if cool air cycles you have diagnosed the problem

95 jeep cherokee heat

Both of the hoses at the heater core should be hot. If one is cold the heater core is plugged. You can think of it this way. If the thermostat was stuck closed and you checked the upper and lower radiator hoses with the engine hot the upper hose would be hot and the lower hose would be cool because there is no flow. If you check the hoses with a properly working t-stat both hoses will be hot when the t-stat is open and coolant is flowing. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using!

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at


I put a brand new heater core, radiator, water pump an thermastat but it still takes forever to blow heat out an then it doesn't get that hot.. what's the problem? my vehicle is a 1995 jeep wrangler 2.5 4...

Could be the heater bypass valve is stuck or the heater core is blocked.
I'd check the heater core first.You may have trapped air in the cooling system or the heater core may be partially plugged up. Engine coolant is delivered to the heater core through two heater hoses. With the engine idling at normal operating temperature, set the temperature control knob in the full hot position, the mode control switch knob in the floor heat position, and the blower motor switch knob in the highest speed position. Using a test thermometer, check the temperature of the air being discharged at the HVAC housing floor outlets.
Temperature Reference
Ambient Air Temperature 15.5° C (60° F) 21.1° C (70° F) 26.6° C (80° F) 32.2° C (90° F)
Minimum Air Temperature at Floor Outlet 52.2° C (126° F) 56.1° C (133° F) 59.4° C (139° F) 62.2° C (144° F)
If the floor outlet air temperature is too low, Both of the heater hoses should be hot to the touch. The coolant return heater hose should be slightly cooler than the coolant supply heater hose. If the return hose is much cooler than the supply hose, locate and repair the engine coolant flow obstruction in the cooling system.
Possible locations or causes of obstructed coolant flow: Pinched or kinked heater hoses. Improper heater hose routing. Plugged heater hoses or supply and return ports at the cooling system connections. A plugged heater core. If proper coolant flow through the cooling system is verified, and heater outlet air temperature is still low, a mechanical problem may exist.
Possible locations or causes of insufficient heat: An obstructed cowl air intake. Obstructed heater system outlets. A blend door not functioning properly.
If the heater outlet air temperature cannot be adjusted with the temperature control knob on the A/C Heater control panel, the following could require service: The A/C Heater control. The blend door actuator.
The blend door. Improper engine coolant temperature

Tipically, a hot air furnce has exhaust and a cold air intake. My question is, why is one of them hooked to condensation pump that pumps water out?

In a forced hot air system you have a supply and a return.

Now with central air cond,you also have the same supply and return exept you also have an air conditioning coil that the return air goes through to be cooled,then it is blown out through the supply side to the vents in the home.

Since warm air or summer air contians water or humidity the cooling coil collects the moisture and sends it to a pan which when fills up is pumped out by a condensation pump.

I have hot water returning to the normally cold header tank. All rads get got I have turned the pump speed down. Both outlet pipes from the 3 port valve are hot, the valve does not make a noise when...

Hi yes it could be the valve has stuck closing the return part of the valve turn heating off try hw only return should warm up , try gentle taps on the side off the valve might free it
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Why won't my Reddy Heater R55 run with the upper shell on? My Reddy Heater R55 will not run properly with the upper shell installed. Initially, the unit wasn't sparking, so I replaced the transformer ignition control and installed a new spark plug. That fixed the sparking issue. However, this new shutoff issue was discovered. I elected to replace the lint filter, intake filter, and output filter, as those pieces all looked pretty old. The filter end cover was cracked on the side and spitting out air, which I replaced. After the same issue continued and the unit shut off after a few minutes with the upper shell on, I replaced several other things. This included the photocell, nozzle and adapter, the adjusting screw, spring, steel ball, and the 1/8" ID air and fuel lines. After digging deeper into this, I noted the old 3/16" ID air line was leaking with a bit of soapy water, my dad's best trick for finding leaks. One thing to note, when I have the upper shell off, I have set the pressure to 3.4 PSI (per the side label), but when I put the upper shell on, the PSI drops to below 3.0 unless I hold the gauge still. When I hold it, the gauge reads 3.4 PSI. A couple of final things to note on this journey. 1) The fuel cap does not look to have a gasket but it seems to breathe properly with the hole in the center of the cap. 2) Before any issues started, I was running pump kerosene. Since then, I filled up with 10 gallons of jet fuel at a local airport and wondered if I got bad fuel from them. I plan to run through the last 7 gallons or so of jet fuel with the upper shell off and then try a couple of gallons of pump kerosene to see if that resolves the problem. Beyond all of my attempts, I am at a loss and could use some help. I've spent more on these repairs than the unit is worth but started the process in hopes of fixing the heater, as my wife's grandfather gave it to me a couple of years ago. In hindsight, I should have just bought a new unit, but here I am.

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