Behind the clock panel, there is a fuse. You may have burned a wire off its connector too. Next time you come across that problem, sacrifice a potato and jam it in the socket and twist. Shut the power off first. Potatoes conduct electricity.
SOURCE: self clean light blinks when you turn oven on (oven does not work)
I had this same problem with mine (still posted under unsolved) This is the simpler model with the old turn style knob and the lever you slide over to lock the door for cleaning What I think (keep in mind I know little about ovens, more about cars) is that the switch that tells the oven the door is latched is staying engaged, and this is part of the lever mechanism. I cleaned and lubed this mechanism (obviously I would guess you want to use a food safe lubricant) and then moved the lever several times with the oven on so I could see if it turned on. After a few tries the cleaning light went off and the oven light came on. No, its not really a technical answer, all indications to me where that the problem was in the switch which is part of the latch mechanism. Good luck
SOURCE: Oven not lighting
Hi The gas valve will not open until the ignitor pulls enough amps around 3.2 . so from the infromation you wroke you may need a new ignitor..let me know what you can find out..
SOURCE: GE Profile Gas Range oven light doesn't work even after changing
SOURCE: Stovetop lamp sockets very brittle and are disintegrating.
In effect (given the unit is wired correctly) without insulation on the socket, you have an exposed neutral wire in your oven -- this is certainly not as dangerous as an exposed hot wire, but does present risks. I recommend replacing the light sockets -- you'll sleep and cook a lot better.
SOURCE: GE Spectra range
I just moved into a new apartment and my stove wasn't working properly. After reading the very helpful information posted by kd3ke, I decided to turn off the breaker to my stove, take off the back covering, and check out what was back there. I was experiencing the same problem as posted.... the burner light, oven light and clock were all working however, the burners did not get hot nor did the oven. After taking off the back panel, the cord did have just as he stated, a black, white, and red wire however the plug attatching to the stove did not have cordinating colors. It was just a grey cord with 3 copper wire heads. It seemed to me that the cord was twisted and therefore everything was backwards. Since I was relying on his post, that would explain why the stove still did have some power, just not all, because the voltagages were wrong. I flipped the three cord wires, reconnected them to the stove and then plugged it in and turned on the breaker... everything works now!!! :) I don't know if this will help anyone else since it may not be the same problem if your stove was working properly previously, but it fixed the problem for me since I had just moved in.
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