The Refrigerator side is about 50 degrees. Where the Freezer seems to be working just fine. I took off the back panel of the Ref side to check for ice on coils. Slight ice mostly just some frost. Used a hair dryer to defrost ice and frost. Did not help at all. What else could be the problem? Nobody in my area seems to work on Samsung so I need to fix this myself.
Get a high power wet/dry shop vacuum cleaner and use the blower side to blow through the vents from freezer to refrigerator. The frost on the "evaporator" acts as an insulator, no matter how slight. You need to do a process of elimination of individual components in the defrost circuit and test for conditions, which I call the three "C's": Circuit Condition, or Component. This tactic can be applied in any electromechanical device. With the Wet/Dry high power vacuum cleaner blower end, use it to defrost the evaporator completely, if you can have someone put a hair dryer or heat gun on the suction side of the wet/dry, it will speed up the process. Afterwards, check that the freezer evaporator fan is running and that all cowlings are installed and clear. Close the freezer and put your hand on the top part of the refrigerator and feel for cool air from the vent. Then open the freezer door and the draft should increase quite a bit, if not, you have a clogged ventilation. Check to see that your defrost kicks in for no less than 10 minutes in a 10 hour window. Usually the defrost timer runs for 6 to 10 hours and a defrost cycle runs for 10 to 30 minutes. Be careful and don't burn yourself because the defrost heater has around 40 ohms of resistance, which equates to around 360 Watts of heat. If a 100 Watt light bulb can burn you, imagine 3.6 times that amount. The defrost timer operates the defrost heater, or the compressor motor and fans, but not both. So, if the fans are not running, the defrost heater should be energized, if the defrost bi-metal thermostat switch is working properly. Said switch should be changed in no more than a 10 year run because they are rated to run 10,000 times, which equates to 9 years 1-1/2 months. It's similar to a vehicles thermostat, if you change the water pump, you need to change the thermostat too because it is a mechanical device working under the laws of thermodynamics, and the laws of physics are not just really good ideas. So, to start off the bat, if you are going to begin to troubleshoot and do your own repairs, start by buying said switch. It costs from around $4 to $75 depending on your manufacturer. Get a similar switch and piggyback it over your existing switch as a trouble shooting tool, over 75% of the chances its that, but always confirm your diagnosis then confirm the bad part with proper tests. After the repair, confirm the repair, never try to second guess yourself because it will bite you. Be aware of the high voltages present, and the sharp fins of the evaporator. If the switch, and/or the heater are good then it mght be your defrost timer. Disconnect the timer and jumper between #4 and #1, that will run the defrost heater if the switch is good. Jumper #4 and #2 will run the compressor motor and fans. Never, ever jumper #4 and #3 because you will experience something very bad, like a loud bright spark arc as it melts your jumper and hopefully trips your house circuit breaker and not electrocute you. Watch several Youtube videos and read blogs on fixing your refrigerator defrost problem and enjoy the experience as it will save you a lot of money from a professional guessing, replacing, hoping and praying that he fixed it, with your nickle.
SOURCE: samsung fridge RS2630SH, side by side, icing up on freezer.
You have to pull out the sensor from the board and test with tester, both sensor should read the resistance of 10,000 to 20,000 ohms. The reading that you show is very low it means that the thermistor is out of range and need replacement.
SOURCE: Samsung RS2556 - Refrigerator side is not cooling - Freezer is fine
Ok, what I found out is that there are codes built into the front panel. If you hold the top left and right buttons for 5 seconds, the fridge will reset. If there are no issues, the panel goes blank. If there is a dash in the right side of the panel, there is an issue with the fridge side. In the left, freezer side. The dash indicates a defrost problem. Only a couple of things can cause this. 1. Sensor 2. Heater 3. Fan, 4. control board.
SOURCE: Samsung RS2545SH coils freezing
Hey how's it going? I may have the info you need, but first I need you to go through a check list to see if there is a simple fix.
Check to see if there are any obstructions in the freezer drain (freezer drain located inside freezer compartment behind back panel lower right hand corner of the freezer coils) if there are obstructions or debris remove and clean with a mild dish washing detergent and water, check to see that water can drain freely. see if this helps.when the coils freeze is the ice flaky or is it frozen solid ice? if the ice is flaky it could mean that either the refridges/freezer door are left open to long "check your door gaskets or seals by closing the on a dollar bill if it pulls out easily with little to know resistance your door gaskets may need to be replaced. After you defrost the freezer coils did you notice if there was water in the condensor pan, if so good sign. (condensor pan: is the pan that collects the water that drips through the drain hole of the freezer compartment caused by the heating of the coil by the coil heater: water that enters the pan collects and is reused by the condensor fan by blowing warm air partly into the water and through the condensor coils causing them to cool.)if you still need to test your bi-metal therostat or your glass heater/ice pipe heater, you will need a multimeter and knowledge on the use of it.(IF YOU 'RE NOT NOT COMFORTABLE AROUND ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICITY PLEASE CONTACT A QUALIFIED REPAIR SERVICE AND REMEMBER TO UNPLUG APPLIANCE BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY REPAIRS) for more info on how to test please reply,Good Luck, be safe..
SOURCE: samsung rs2533sw fridge not cooling
it sounds like the refrigerator evap is frozen up causing the compartment to get too hot. shut the unit off and let it thaw out. then take the screws out of the cover to check the stryrofoam on the back side of the cover to see if theres broken spots on it causing the air to bypass the evap causing it to freeze. Theres two screws behind the light cover and two at the very bottom of the cover and two behind the decorative plugs about 1/2 way
SOURCE: Samsung RS2534 Freezer works but fridge side isn't very cold
replace the sensor and the main board
not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling1,487 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×