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Hi, I do not believe the oven has an internal fuse as it uses the mains fuse where it is installed. i would go to your building switch panel where your electrical fuses are housed same as for your lights and sockets etc. and check all are switched on. often ovens run on 3 phase power meaning they have 3 fuses one for each phase ensure all 3 are switched on. if they are on, it might indicate that the heating element or the thermostat in your oven are defective and need replacing but checking the power would be the easiest first check. if the fuse keeps tripping off when switching on the oven, ensure it is the correct amp rating for your oven, if it is correct and keeps tripping then your oven probably is defective and need to be repaired or replaced.
E1 F2 is most often due to a failed keypad. Depending on your exact model the original part may be no-longer-available. However, there are replacement membrane switches available here:
CHECK FOR CRACKS IN THE BAKE ELEMENT. IF THE UNIT IS NOT HEATING THE BOTTOM, BUT THE TOP IS STILL HEATING, YOU MORE THAN LIKELY HAVE TO REPLACE THE ELEMENT. THIS IS A 220 VOLT OVEN WITH 110 VOLTS ALWAYS GOING TO THIS ELEMENT, SO TURNING OF THE BREAKER IS VITAL FOR SAFETY PURPOSES. WITH AN OHM METER, UNINSTALL THE ELEMENT AND CHECK BOTH WIRE CONNECTIONS FOR OHMS. YOU SHOULD GET SOME KIND OF READING BETWEEN 10 OHMS AND 500 OHMS. IF YOU'RE NOT AT LEAST GETTING A SOLID READING, REPLACE THIS ELEMENT.
HI,
This issue is the oven got too hot during self clean. There is a thermo-fuse to the display on the right hand side directly to the board. But this fuse does not show up in the wiring diagram. Also you have have taken out a second thermo fuse on the backwall to the oven in which it must be removed from the cabinet to replace. I need a model number to direct you on the correct parts, and location of this parts.
Get back to me with more information..
you may have blown the control board. or blown the ac main control fuse for you home wiring. this is in your fuse box cookers have there own fuse separate from other appliances.
I take it the oven will not heat. there is a safety thermo inside the grilles. it can be reset.. turn the power off at the breaker...
remove the grille..inside of the door. then look inside the thermo is has two wires going to it and a red button in the middle.. push the red button down it will reset the thermo with a click... replace grille and restore power...
hope it helps..
replace grille
the humming sound is coming from the "squirrel cage" fan in the back of the unit, there may be some resonance vibration from the fan this issue should be addressed by a qualified service tech, the whole wall oven needs to be pulled out, i would have him check the fan.
Bad Safety valve. (valve w/red button). Thermocouple keeps the magnet open to keep pilot and so gas can flow to burner. Make sure pilot is clean and strong and hitting thermocouple. If it doesnt stay lit replace Safety Valve.
Probably what happened is during cleaning cycle the oven overheated the tco (thermo cut off). This is a thermo-fuse that is located behind the control board.
It will need to be replaced.
There is a thermo fuse located behind the back panel of the oven. If the oven appears to be working but is not actually heating then this is the cause. The oven will have to be removed from the wall, power to the oven shut off at the main breaker and the back panel removed. the thermo fuse is just to the left and up from the center of the convection fan. It has 2 wires connected to it.
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