My dryer will not turn on. it ran a load of clothes then whe i put the next load in, it would turn on, it has voltage at the terminal in the rear. and at the on off switch

Heating element is probably out.

On the housing the element mounts in is a couple of safetys The smaller one is rated for 300f and the bigger one is rated for 250f. If the smaller one is tripped obviously you replace them both, making sure the vent to outside is clear. Them fuses blow or trip because of air restrictions.

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it sounds like the thermal fuse is bad...The back cover needs to come off, but first UNPLUG
If you have a multi-meter set to ohms and test the little bullet shaped fuse in lower area on rear back. It sets alittle left above and up from rear vent it should have two wires going to a small bullit shaped fuse being held on with one screw.. check with meter and if bad you can touch wires together and this will start dryer..it stops dryer if it senses lack of air flow..they usually go bad if your vent is somewhat blocked , or totally blocked...usually before this happens..you might have to put your clothes in twice to dry them.. The wires can be insulated together so they do not touch metal..this will allow machine to run, but , you want to figure out why and correct this problem as welll ....sometimes, they just go bad.

Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. I would check the vent hose behing the dryer and make sure it is not clogged and also check the outside termination for being clogged up with lint and hair.

I think I know what the problem is, this actually happened on a dryer I repaired at one point. Low line voltage to me means that one or more hot leads is not feeding enough voltage to the heating elements (and the heating elements need both hot leads to run) which means the circuit breaker, although on, may be malfunctioning or weakening. You can check this by running your dryer and taking the cover off your circuit panel and checking voltage on the breaker. You should see 110V on each terminal to ground (put leads from one terminal to the grounding bar in the panel). If you see less than 110V on each lead to ground and less that 240V across the terminals it needs to be replaced. (You can get one for under $25.00 depending on brand). NOTE: THE BREAKER USUALLY POPS RIGHT OUT OF THE PANEL, BUT WHEN WORKING IN PANEL TURN MAIN BREAKER OFF TO THE HOUSE AND HAVE SOMEONE HOLD A FLASHLIGHT FOR YOU. IF YOU TOUCH THE LIVE BUSS BAR THAT BREAKER GOES INTO YOU WILL GET SEVERELY HURT. TURNING OFF MAIN BREAKER WILL DISENGAGE THE POWER FROM THE BUSS BARS; NOTE THAT MAIN WIRES ARE STILL POWERED SO BE CAREFUL.

yes,because the washer can handle a large load the dryer tends to get overloaded,which eventually wears the front drum glides out pre-maturely..whe changing the glides,you may want to change,or inspect the rear bearing as well

Hello. I know exactly what is wrong with your dryer.

If your clothes get marked or torn in your dryer, check these:

Rollers
Rear seal
Front glides
Front seal
Rollers Your dryer may use rollers, or wheels, to support the rear of the clothes drum. When these are worn out, they may cause the clothes drum to drop down slightly, which can pinch the clothes between the top of the clothes drum and the rear of the dryer interior. When the rollers wear out, you need to replace the whole set.

Rear seal Your dryer may have a felt-like seal at the rear of the drum. If this seal is worn, torn, or missing, clothes can get caught and torn in the space between the clothes drum and the rear of the dryer interior. When the rear seal wears out, you need to replace it.

Front glides Your dryer probably uses nylon or plastic glides at the front of the clothes drum for support. When these are worn out, they may cause the clothes drum to drop down slightly, which can pinch the clothes between the top of the clothes drum and the front of the dryer interior. When the glides wear out, you need to replace them as a set.

Front seal Many dryers have a felt-like seal at the front of the drum. If this seal is worn, torn, or missing, the clothes in the dryer may get caught and torn in the space between the clothes drum and the front of the dryer interior. When the seal wears out, you need to replace it.

I had the same problem that I just fixed. I removed the serial cable weeks ago. Unplugged and plugged cord to reset computer glitches. If this does not work. UNPLUG cord, remove the terminal block cover for cord connections. With a AC volt meter and plastic kitchen gloves, plug in, turn on dryer and check voltage. Red to Black 240+/- 6 volts. Those terminals to center 120+/- 3 volts. UNPLUG CORD if good voltage. With dryer de-energized you won't need kitchen gloves. Next take out 4 screws that hold Back-splash, lift and tilt forward. There is a wiring diagram inside. Plug and unplug each cord one at a time. Take care to not to bend prongs. My problem was a parallel cable that had a bad connection. Unplugging it and plugging it back in was all it took to fix the problem. Good Luck.

you maby have a weak thermal fuse.

could be rear drum bearing. possible heat element broke and is rubbing on back of drum those light you say you saw was probably your heat element arcking on the metal in other words sparking