SOURCE: Defrost timer sticking
Your model doesn't have a defrost timer. Everything is controlled by the main motherboard in the back. The ONLY way to get an acurate diagnosis is to call GE FActory Service at 1-800-432-2737. There is proprietary software and the tech will be able to plug in a laptop to your refer to find out what is going on. No other companies have this or have access to this software. By the way that deforst thermostat you think you found isn't what you think it is. It looks like one but it only a saftey device. Trust me...!
SOURCE: freezer freeze up
Your model TFX20JRBKWWW uses a defrost timer part number WR9X489 located behind the light shield in the fresh foods compartment. (top back area). Just in case you need to know, the defrost heater is a part number WR51X10101 located behind the back wall of the freezer.
SOURCE: Location of Defrost Timer
you unit do not carry it carry a board it at the back off the unit
SOURCE: Defrost Heater or Main Control Board, Which one is at fault?
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To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.
Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is
the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to
all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other
types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and
keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In
a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an
electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.
The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer.
Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover
or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front
corners or center of the front kick plate.
A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on
the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the
defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.
The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked
with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.
There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety
thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you
have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then
you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary
by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.
The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it
is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that
needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the
sensor.
If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that
will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I
recommend you contact a reliable technician..
SOURCE: GE model #GSS201EMBWW is not defrosting, checked
This is how the defrost works . I have NEVER found a defrost problem associated with a bad main control board since these computerized GE's came out in 2000 . Lots of thermistor problems , lying to the board , causing different problems .
Your GSS model refrig does not have a defrost timer . It works off of the main control board . Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to selected temperature .
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