My Dacor oven is not working, & I keep getting an F1 error. This seemed to occur right after the cleaning cycle was ran. It started beeping, the oven door would not unlock after the cycle completed, & now the oven will no longer heat up or function. It was beeping so bad we had to kick off the breaker to make it stop. Ideas?
SOURCE: dacor cps130 wall oven f1 error
According to the manual, this is an element relay circuit failure. Call the tech.
SOURCE: dacor single oven flashes an F2 error code and won't stop beeping!!!
This is from manufacture service manual:
-F2- Alarm Heating Mode High Temperature
Is activated when the ERC senses a runaway heat condition or when the temperature exceeds
“runaway limits”. The ERC will beep until the cancel or another function is selected. If the alarm
repeats the F2 alarm check the oven sensor and wiring after fi rst checking for a stuck relay. If alarm
goes away verify the oven will complete a clean cycle without any type of failure.
Another words the problem with oven sensor or relay board.
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SOURCE: Dacor error codes
HI. the F-1 code is a System Watchdog Circuit failure code.
Press "Cancel", if beeping continues after 30 seconds, replace the main control board (also called clock or ERC).
Concerning the F-5 code. This is an oven temp sensor failure code. have it replaced asap. ((Check the wiring leading to and from the control and sensor for cracks and fouled structure. if the wiring is bad, replace the harness as well)),
SOURCE: F1 is displayed on Maytag Electric Oven
Hi
F1 error means that you have either a bad ERC (clock) or a bad
touch pad. To check these please follow these simple instructions:
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SOURCE: Keep getting F1 error code (constant beep) on my GE profile oven.
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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