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Need a schematic for the pocket fisherman. Thumb release doesn't work.

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Anonymous

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SOURCE: need the manual for the popeil pocket fisherman. I

For the original pocket fisherman. I believe the design has not changed. Once you do it the first time it is actually quite easy.

Two things to note. Read this whole thing first.

1) the location of the bail spring (Keeps the metal bail cover up so line does not get stuck when casting.

Note: This is important cause the metal bail cover must rise enough so that the line casts smoothly. (A complaint about this product. But when calibrated correctly it is quite good for what it is)

2) The little **** that the crank gear plastic housing will fit into (Must be on top when you put the whole bail back in. The crank shaft lip fits into that ****.You'll get it when you see it.

Remove the panel screws (2) as you did. Pop out the crank shaft (copper). **** is in top when replacing. (remember that). Remove the bail. On the top of the bail there is a screw. ( becareful and remember how the little metal bail spring in situated here. Turn upside down with metal bail cover in your palm as it conects to the bail spring). Pull off metal bail cover. The plastic line holder actually comes apart and holds a lot more line than you think. Replace line. Feed the line back up the rod. Assemble the opposite.

Posted on Jun 06, 2010

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For the original pocket fisherman. I believe the design has not changed. Once you do it the first time it is actually quite easy.

Two things to note. Read this whole thing first.

1) the location of the bail spring (Keeps the metal bail cover up so line does not get stuck when casting.

Note: This is important cause the metal bail cover must rise enough so that the line casts smoothly. (A complaint about this product. But when calibrated correctly it is quite good for what it is)

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Two things to note. Read this whole thing first.

1) the location of the bail spring (Keeps the metal bail cover up so line does not get stuck when casting.

Note: This is important cause the metal bail cover must rise enough so that the line casts smoothly. (A complaint about this product. But when calibrated correctly it is quite good for what it is)

2) The little **** that the crank gear plastic housing will fit into (Must be on top when you put the whole bail back in. The crank shaft lip fits into that ****.You'll get it when you see it.

Remove the panel screws (2) as you did. Pop out the crank shaft (copper). **** is in top when replacing. (remember that). Remove the bail. On the top of the bail there is a screw. ( becareful and remember how the little metal bail spring in situated here. Turn upside down with metal bail cover in your palm as it conects to the bail spring). Pull off metal bail cover. The plastic line holder actually comes apart and holds a lot more line than you think. Replace line. Feed the line back up the rod. Assemble the opposite.

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