How do I adjust my defrost cycle

If your furnace is relatively new, as in 10 years old or less, there should be a field adjustable 'cool down' cycle. On the circuit board there should be a dip switch or series of dip switches with 30, 60,90,120 indications. These numbers represent the length of time the relay on the circuit board allows the fan to run AFTER the thermostat satisfies. You may be able to adjust the time frame down one position from where its positioned now.


The second possibility, if the blower never shuts off at all is that the relay itself could be stuck in the closed position and keeping the fan on.

You can by pass it but I wouldn't. You may need to replace the t'stat on this. This controls pretty much everything. Depending on your model, the defrost cycle can be adjusted to shorter cycles. Bypassing it would eventually lead to ice build up and a real mess to follow .

1) Copy following links:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/8145-work-image.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/Paragon-timers-and-manuals.html#defrost

2) Typically the 8145-20 defrost cycle is time-initiated and starts when tripper pin located on outer part of dial passes the time-of-day point.
Defrost cycle terminates or ends when pressure or temperature switch activates. This is also called the cycle limit switch.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/8145-20-wiring-600.jpg

3) So your situation sounds like the pressure or temperature switch is not working correctly.

4) The 8145 timer also has 'time termination' setting. This red tripper is located on inner part of dial.
Usually the 'time termination' is used as back-up system if the pressure or temperature switch fails so that defrost cycle will not continue melting everything in freezer.

5) To solve problem until pressure-temperature switch is replaced, you can disconnect wire on terminal X, and then set 'time termination' for correct length of time by experimenting.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

turn the defrost cycle switch till the compressor shuts off, if the defrost heater starts working you know it's the cycle switch. Sometimes the thermostat has to be showing a need for the heater to even come on. In
this case you might have to jump out the thermostat to make the
heater come on. If you thaw the back of the freezer and visually inspect the heating element it can sometimes have burnt ends that will tell you
it is bad. You could also use a voltmeter and track where the voltage stops. But make sure the Thermostat and defrost cycle switch will be
calling for heater to come on.

It may be stuck on defrost cycle due to a bad timer... is there an adjustable switch that you could adjust it should start up... let me know...

switch for defrost is inside condenser your options are usually 30, 60, 90 minutes. you can not decrease times between defrost it is determined by a coil sensor it senses ice on coil and puts unit into be aware that heatpumps are only effecient down to certin temps.the switch you describe is length of defrost.

It sounds, as though, something could be faulty with your defrost. Before you do anything with that, be sure, that the air vent into the refrigerator isn't blocked. Cold air moves from the freezer into the refrigerator, which provides the cooling. Check your evaporator. See if it is frozen with a massive amount of ice. It is in the freezer behind a wall, where the fan is. Now, back to the defrost. Most of the time, it could be one or two problems. The first could be the defrost heater. It is located within the freezer. It is close to the evaporator. It heats up during the defrost cycle. To tell, when the defrost cycle occurrs, the evaporator fan will shut off, as well as, the compressor. Nothing but the interior light/s will come, once you open the door. The other problem could be, that the defrost control is bad. It triggers the defrost cycle. It is a timer, really. It slowly spins. In some cases, the timer motor stops running. If you can locate the defrost control, it will have a stem, which can be turned with a screwdriver. Turn it and see, if the box goes into a defrost? If it does, great. Defrost cycles vary in length, depending on make. Wait, for up to one half hour, if the box doesn't come out of defrost, I would say, that the control is bad. If it does come out of the defrost, great. Now, place it back into defrost, and check the heater. Be careful and don't get burned! The heater should get gradually hot. If it doesn't, the heater is bad. If you know how to use a OHM metter, use it. I hope this helped? Good luck.

You need to adjust the heat anticiptor on the thermostat. Not knowing your furnace control amp draw ..... I would set the anticiptor somewhere between .3 & .7. The slight adjustment should make the cycling run better. If not adjust it the other way. If this does not solve the problem the heat anticipator might be bad (change the thermostat). If you have a digital stat read the manual most are preset at the factory. Sometimes you can reset it by following the directions.

You'll find all the information you need at http://www.rinnaiuk.com/download.htm

PDF's include schematics for all dip switches

Please note: you'll need to get the pdf that corresponds with the correct model you have.

The fan stops during the whole defrost cycle, there is a bi metal control that determines the length of time the heater stays on. This could be the problem, if the heater stays on for the time that is allowed by the defrost timer it will get too warm in the freezer. the bi metal is located on the evaporator.