Everything else works fine, New board has 3 wires to wall control, old board had 4
Did u make sure to plug the light in when u replaced the logic board? And u may have three wires been t only two are needed for the wall button ... whats the model number of your opener?
Model # is a sears 139.53614 SR, Logic board was changed by a garage door mechanic as a last ditch effort
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SOURCE: garage door remote won't open the garage door
The little button with a padlock on the wall control is a "vacation" lockout feature that disables the remotes. There should be a small LED on the wall control that is always on steady. When the padlock button is pressed and released the LED should be constantly blinking (indicating the vacation lockout mode is active) and your remotes should be disabled. The wall control will still operate the door. Pushing the padlock button again should make the LED stop blinking and restore the door to normal operation.
SOURCE: LiftMaster 1/3 HP- Garage Door Opens but will not close
I have had a similar problem related to my doors when they get cold-soaked. The tracks actually warp a little throwing the sensors off and causing the door to bind. The door will go down a bit then come back up. I overcame this be resetting the force that the motor puts out to lower the door and it works fine now. If you can wait for things to warm up, use the manual release lever and lower the door by hand and then reset the lever so the door can't be opened manually.
SOURCE: Sear garage door wall mount contol light keeps blinking
One of the buttons has a lock icon. Hold that button in for 3 seconds.
SOURCE: Sear garage door wall mount contol light keeps blinking
Hold the button with the lock icon in for 3 seconds. This should toggle the unit off vacation mode and your remotes will work.
SOURCE: Craftsman 1/2 HP Garage Door opener problem
The remote and the keypad work through a signal sent to the receiver while the wall console, as you said it's wired directly to the opener, so it's likely that the receiver is shot. I'd try reprogramming the remote to just rule out the chance that all code wasn't erased first. (Press the learn button on the back of the operator head, stand back 5 feet and within 30 seconds slowly press the remote button a few times to see if it operates the opener). If this doesn't work, you can install an external LiftMaster universal receiver with the correct frequency and you should be good.
If there's a purple antenna hanging off the head, this is a 315 freq, use a 356LM, if black it's a 390 freq, use a 635LM receiver.
Then you'll have to reprogram your remote and keypad to the receiver.
Since there's also the issue with the light, there's also a possibility the circuit board got fried. Did you have any storms lately?
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Model # is a sears 139.53614 SR, Logic board was changed by a garage door mechanic as a last ditch effort
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