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What is a requarement for motor, do we need it to be bonding ?

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Gene Haynes

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Motor must be grounded with ground wire.
Some local codes require outdoor motor shell to be bonded, with a ground rod driven into ground and ground wire attached... in addition to ground wire back to panel.
Never hurts to bond outdoor electrical devices.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Posted on May 24, 2014

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Rusty smelly hot water


The rust can be from rusted pipes, and not necessarily tank:
New tank has new anode rod, and is NOT likely to be cause of problem.
Anode only protects the tank... not your steel pipes.
There are mathematical formulas for figuring what size and type anode is needed for steel structures like bridges and water heater and boat hulls... if anode is too small or deteriorated, or coated in calcium, or not electrically bonded to the steel surface, or if tank is not full of water or boat hull is out of water, then anode cannot protect the steel.
For more insight about problem:
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

Gene h


If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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It the motor there are carbon brushes in there when they wear down they don't touch commutator... on motor what u here is arcking u shud b able to re place them u will need a model number and make, ..or remove motor and take with u to get right brushes if the moyor is badly burnt u will need to replace it if u continu to use like this it will only get worse

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1) Electrically bond pipes to ground to avoid stray current corrosion.
Use pex-lined di-electric nipples instead of dielectric unions.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#straycurrent
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#di-electric
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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1 Answer

While installing the heater I dropped the unit on its top and and smashed the sheetmetal caseing. How can I rest assured that the tank inside did not break? Is there a glass liner inside?


They construct a steel tank, then bond vitreous glass to the inside of it to keep it from rusting. There are variations in manufacturing quality, however, so some tanks might have a better glass lining than others. And there is always a small amount of steel exposed, due to limitations in the coating process.

The tank is protected with a insulated coating on the liner to protect it for damage even if the shell get's bent up. You can put water on it to test it for any leaks. I don't recomend putting a air test it could be dangerous to do so. If it fell from a upright position and not off something higher then it should still be ok.

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Stop 2min and run for 2min, stop 2min and run for


your motor thermal safety relay is protecting the motor from burning out
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Clean the crack up and expose clean metal by sanding it or a small grinder. Use JB weld it is a two part mixture that set's up hard as steel. Any hardware store should carry it.
I have fixed gas tanks,glasses and a few other thing's with it.
The main thing the surface has to be clean so the compound get's a grip to the metal. Since you already have a crack the compound will go into crack to get a inside bond.
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Drain tank and let it dry out before attemping to fix.

They make all kind's of JB weld for different types of applications and Lowes or Home Depot will carry it.

Check out this link http://jbweld.net/index.php

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