Please let me know what means error code OA in Krups XP7225 machine

SOURCE: Error Code 9 on a Krups XP7240 Expresso machine

After I changed piston sealing I get the same error 09. It was caused by missing connection to the thermoblock temperature sensor. In my case both connectors for thermocouple were cracked. They are located directly on the body of thermoblock, below two fuses, covered by rubber housing. After I solder them again on the position error 09 disappeared. Unfortunately it is necessary to open at least front panel of the machine. Moreover I tink that there is also important to save polarity of those two cables.

SOURCE: krups xp7420 espresseria automatic

am o proare 01 la un espesor krups 7220/7240

SOURCE: Error code 07 on my Krups XP 7220 coffee machine

Error code 07 on my Krups XP 7220 coffee machine what to do? Nick

SOURCE: Code error 06 in Krups

Hi,

Error 06 - Pump in actuator down phase

The flow has not dropped (> 50ml/min)
after the actuator has been filled to the
maximum (80ml); there is a water
leakage and the actuator does not fill
Look for the leakage source:
hoses, actuator, priming valve?
Switch or distributor switch
control fault: incorrect detection
of cams
error in distributor
position in cylinder descent
phase.
Flowmeter hoses changed over
Distributor problem (leakage at
drain ..)
Faulty connection between the
2 picto boards
If no leak detected, replace
power board V26 with V29

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

SOURCE: kRUPS xp7225 LEAKS FROM THE

For mine, the solution, which also applies to other similar Krups machines, was to replace the seal at the bottom of the boiler. (#MS-5015004). This seal was torn. While in there, I also replaced the piston (#MS-0697072), which seemed like a good idea, since its O-rings seal the top of the chamber. I got my parts from Nelson Appliance.

To replace the seal (from memory, so there might be some details missing or incorrect):

1. Remove drip tray, coffee drawer, water tank, and side bin
2. Remove top metal cover and one screw underneath that holds down the plastic insert
3. Remove the one screw that holds the cover inside the bean hopper and carefully pop off the grinder adjustment knob. The hopper should now come off.
4. Slide the front plate (gray/silver plastic) up until it pops off. Remove the four screws underneath it.
5. Remove the screws from the top of the unit (two at front, one in a recessed hole in the back).
6. Remove the two screws under the water tank.
7. Pry/pop the top off, and pry the side/back cover off.
8. Unplug the grinder from the circuit board, remove the two screws that hold it in place, and remove the grinder.
9. Remove the coffee line from the piston. Remove its clip and then remove the two screws underneath it.
10. At this point, you will need to disconnect most of the other wires from the circuit board or the components they go to, and you will need to unbolt the piston carrier, so that you can remove the frame that holds the grinder.
11. Remove the three screws that hold the boiler to the base.
12. Holding the shaft from underneath, remove the screw that holds the screen in the middle of the plunger in the boiler.
13. The plunger and shaft can now be removed.
14. The seal goes in the hole at the bottom of the boiler that the shaft runs through. I used a toothbrush handle to push the new one into place from the bottom. Make sure the lip of the new one is fully seated in the opening (look at it from the top of the boiler and work it into place while apply pressure from below). Once it's properly seated, there should be noticeable drag on the plunger shaft when it is moved inside the seal.
15. Reassembly is the reverse of removal.