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These tend to crack and "unzip" because they are such a tight circle... Kill the power, and meter the ring element for ohm's resistance. If the element tests ok, check the wires to the element for overheating, and if those look fine, remove the control board and look for burnt solder joints where the relays are mounted. Multimeter DM10T
I looked up the parts break down for this model there are 7 different ones your last 2 digits are missing this unit dos not use torsion springs the MW door should have a brown arm riveted to the door that goes into the frame this activates a switch
First check that the fan itself has not failed. If the fan and wiring are ok, your EOC (electronic oven control) has failed. This is NLA (no longer availabe). The Whirlpool part number is 3187895. This can be rebuilt: See: http://www.fixyourboard.com/boards/3187895.html
Hello,4 Digit Failure
F0 - E0
for 30 seconds - if display re-appears - replace control
F1 - E1
F2 - E0
F3 - E0
sensor or oven temperature sensor fuse opened
temperature sensor or fuse
F3 - E1
F3 - E2
Oven too hot
F3 - E3
F5 - E0 F5
- E1 and E2
2 Digit Failure
F0 or F1 or
F2 - E0
operation of door lock on self-clean models 2. Test relay contact operation 3. High resistance in oven temperature sensor
this is a common occurance with many self clean ranges, especially slide in and wall oven units. the kitchen aid ranges usually have a non reset hi-limit. meaning it opens one time and needs to be replaced, sadly.
to replace the thermostat can be tricky to do if you're not experienced, so if you have any reservations about taking you range apart, call a qualified tech in your area. if you decide to take a go at it, well first things first.
**FIRST unplug from the wall or shut off the breaker**
*the other issue is not knowing what model you have.
I can tell you most recent kitchen aid units made by whirlpool have a fixed hi-limit at the back outer oven wall. remove the rear panel, and the hi-limit should be easily accessed. that part # 8300802