Yes my dryer quit heating and i have it apart in the back and i thing i have the heating element looks like springs kinda is this correct

Yep, your heating element broke. If you open up the back of the dryer you will see what look like springs surrounding the drum. Follow the springs until you find the break. Replace the element. Hope this Helps.

There are a few reasons that the heat will quit. It could be the element that looks like a coil or spring pulled out loose and it is what heats up and quite often if the dryer is older the element breaks and needs to be replaced. Before you take anything apart though go to your breaker and look for the dryer breaker. It is usually bigger than the rest as it is on a 220 volts and if only one of the breakers is tripped the dryer will run but won't heat up it needs that extra 110 volt breaker flipp;ed on to heat the element.There is also a sensor that may have gone on the blink but unless you are real handy with a volt meter and a screwdriver set you may haver to call the pro's. If you do want to fix it your self you will need to get to the inside and get the drum out of the way so you can get access to the element.if the element is the cause it will be broken at some point in the coils and will not be attached 100% all the way around so it is unable to complete the ciccuit therefor not turning on and heating up.If you want to do this you self I would write back asking for step by step instructions to do this.If this has helped you dont for get to click yes on your way out thanks again and good luck!

Heating element has gone bad. You need to unplug unit. remove back, then find heating element and remove it. Look for what looks like broken springs, if found replace element. 99% of electric dryers not drying are the heating element. Cost around $50

if the dryer is running but not heating, then it has to do with the heating element or the thermofuse. You will need to take the dryer apart:
1) unplug dryer
2) open door remove screws
3) with a flat tip screw driver pry gently up on the top corners it will pop
4) move front panel forward and disconnect door switch
5) sit panel aside
6) lift top lid of dryer 90 degrees it has clip/hinged on back
7) look to the right back of dryer, it looks like a spring in a metal box disconnect and replace.
Hope this helps Tim

yes, it is located on the back right inside of the dryer.
1) unplug dryer
2) open door remove screws
3) with a flat tip screw driver pry gently up on the top corners it will pop
4) move front panel forward and disconnect door switch
5) sit panel aside
6) lift top lid of dryer 90 degrees it has clip/hinged on back
7) look to the right back of dryer, it looks like a spring in a metal box disconnect and replace.
Hope this helps Tim

This is usually caused by one of three things: A high current wire has had its connector toasted (this usually happens near the heating element but could be in one of the gang plugs), or the limit bi-metal switch has quit working (located by the heating element) or the heating element has shorted itself to the metal around it and has opened. The expensive problem will be that the timer contact for the circuit (either the contact in the timer assembly or in the electric motor) has fried.
If you have an electronic timer, a relay might be bad.

These problems are easy to locate. Parts are readily available for anyone wishing to track the problem down. (Test light or jumper wires and the circuit knowledge needed.) The wiring diagram is usually on the back of the machine or in a folder behind the access panel.

Will to take it apart to get to the heating element, thermostats, and fuses. If are not familiar in taking it apart go to this websit www.partselect.com type in you model number and it shows diagrams on it. You can try to follow the diagrams it shows and try to take it apart and checking out your heating element, thermostat and fuses. I would start by Ohming this things out first with a multi meter on your ohm setting once you get to it. If they check out ok, then further troubleshooting will be needed.. Remember good fuses will read 0.0 ohms bad fused will read "OL" . You heating element should read i believe about 9-10 ohms i think. hopefully this helps

First-***DISCONNECT THE ELECTRICITY***. Open the back of the dryer. The element will be in a flat metal tube running from the top to the bottom of the back of the dryer. There will be a few wires connected to it. Mark where these go for reassembly. The heater wires are inside the tube. The whole assembly comes apart quite easily to replace the element. It looks like a stretched out spring.

do you have clothes on top of dryer? if so, i'll say it again never ever stack clothes or anything on top of it. Things on it insulate it and will overheat the machine. Yes it has a overheat linit switch but to get to it you have to take it apart and pull the drum out depending on the style of heat element you have. Some are in the back of drum and others are in a tube on the floor of the unit inside. If yours is behind the drum then drum needs to come out to check for the problem

Your heating element is probably blown. It's not easy to replace it, but give it a try and stick with it. You can do it. Open the dryer door and look upward. You should see the screws holding the top front in place. The back usually slides out,or has two screws, one on each side on a piece of metal sort of like a hinge. Take off top and front, and then remove the drum. You will see the long round element in the rear. It looks like a long spring. Do not take the spring loose from the housing. The element comes with a new spring assembled to the new housing.. There are also several small thermistors in there that look about the size of a quarter. They should all be "closed" so that current can pass thru. Some thermistors look different. They look like the sharpened end of a pencil and are about an inch or less long. Pointed at one end and a wire coming out of each end. Replace this before replacing element. Or if you have a small volt/ohm meter, measure the ohms of the element. They should be quite low-----------300 ohms or less--------probablyi much less. If "open", then the element is bad. keever