The unit won't stay on.

Freezer and refrigerator doors aren't usually supposed to stay open. The units are usually installed so that they're slightly tilted to the back to make sure gravity will close the doors if you forget to. If you are SURE - I mean really SURE - that you want your freezer to stay open you should check the drawer rails to see if they're adjustable; if they are, trying raising the back of the rails (or lowering the front). If the rails are not adjustable, try adjusting the front feet of your fridge so that the front of the whole unit is just a tiny bit lower than it is now. Don't lower it too much! If you do, the doors won't stay closed; they'll leak cold air and you'll lose food.

If you get ice in the freezer, start checking if the evaporator fan and the defrost system is working.

Try doing a complete defrost, ofthen this can solve the problem.


Cause for ice in the fridge can be evaporator/defrost syste, bad gasket, faulty thermistor.

Fridge FAN CONTINUALLY STAYS ON OR SHUTS OFF WHEN DOOR IS OPENED:

NORMALLY WHEN THIS HAPPENS U EITHER HAVE A DOOR CONTINUALLY OPEN ISSUE OR A BAD DOOR SEAL LETTING AIR IN AND CAUSING FAN TO OVERWORK ITSELF. ANOTHER CAUSE CAN BE DIRTY COILS AND CONDENSER AND LASTLY NOT TO COMMON IS A SHORT IN THE FAN SYSTEM ITSELF. A MORE PROBABLE CAUSE COULD BE BAD THERMISTORS OR EVEN COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT ( WHEN THE THERMISTORS OR THERMOSTAT DO NOT GET/GIVE A PROPER READING, THEY CAN CAUSE THE FAN TO CONTINUE TO OPERATE AS THEY FAIL TO RECOGNIZE OR REGULATE THE PROPER TEMPERATURE.

replace the lower plastic shim on the hinge

There is a drain inside the freezer part of the arb2257csr. The drain can get clogged and the water from the defrost process will pool up on the bottom of the freezer. You can gain access to the back of the unit and remove the pan drain to clean it out. Then make sure water flows and ice is not blocking the drain. It takes a long time to melt so I used a turkey baster and put hot water into the drain from the lower inside middle of the freezer. This drain pan can get pretty smelly when rancid oils and such don't evaporate the way it was designed to evaporate the water. The symptoms were ice on the inside bottom and water pooling in the front of the drawer. It also became very hard to close the door due to the frozen door slide. I have not seen anyone report this on any site so far. Everyone talks about the thermostat but no one seems to have arteriosclerosis of the drain tube.

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.


Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

This indicates that you do not have good airflow and return airflow between your freezer and refrigerator sections. That is why the pressure from closing one door is causing the other one to pop open.

Check the drain tube on the back of the machine to make sure it is not clogged or blocked with frozen water inside. Also check any return air flow vents inside the unit for clear ice.