Outlet is working. Model MX3184XPS-3. Could it be a fuse?
SOURCE: microwave stopped working
Generally, you get something unless the fuse inside is blown. There is generally a fuse inside the unit when you remove the button package. First, make sure that the outlet you have is good. Plug something else into it and see that it works.
SOURCE: RCA Microwave stopped working
it probably just died they do that sometimes. you could take it back to the store you bought it, contact RCA or just throw it out and replace it with another.
SOURCE: Sharp Microwave Model R-1830: No power
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
It
may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the
floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.
If
the fuse is good, it may be an open oven thermal cutout (TCO) on the top of the oven cavity / body or an open thermal fuse on or above the magnetron.
These should read closed (virtually zero) on a continuity check.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If
it went dead or when you plugged it in or opened or closed
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad
connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or
even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on
the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of
course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in,
then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter
leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and
make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know
decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
You can usually find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site but the best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: GE Profile Advantium 120 Microwave (Model SCA1000DBB03)
We have
the service manual for this model and have uploaded it to our
site here to help you.
You will need the free
Acrobat Reader
to view or print it in case you don't have it.
A microwave can be dead
for many reasons.
It
may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille, on
the
floor of the oven behind the control panel, between the door switches,
or on the filter board near where the cord comes into the unit.
If
the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO)
/ thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body
of the oven.
If it goes dead for a
while during or after cooking
then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing
the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it
closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When
checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat,
that should read
open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
So don't let that fool you.
If the cavity thermostat
needs to be checked or replaced you'll need to pull the oven from the
wall.
If
so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have
two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.
You can download GE
owner's manuals and installation instructions here.
If it went dead almost
immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted
high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few
seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing
high-voltage transformer.
If
it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open
or close
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
mount.
If it's intermittent or
random, it may be a bad
connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or
even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a
continuity test on
the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of
course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in,
then test it again.
If you remove the fuse,
then press the meter
leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and
make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you
know
decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
There
should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very
helpful
when troubleshooting & testing.
You can usually find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number here.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
SOURCE: HOW TO REPLACE BLOWN FUSE
Look for a reset button on the back--push to reset. If trips again, unit has probable short.
Dead appliance, power on wall outlet.
YOUR
SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT!
Attempt
this only if you are competent.
If
your appliance has absolutely no functions at all, remove it from the
mains supply, remove the case and see where the mains lead goes in to
the appliance and follow the cable until you find the main fuse.
ONLY
USE THE SAME TYPE AND RATING OF FUSE TO REPLACE IT.
The usual
cause of this fuse failure is the door switches are contaminated or
sticking. Check the door switches before putting power back on to the
appliance.
Hope this helps.
Dead appliance, power on wall outlet.
YOUR
SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT!
Attempt
this only if you are competent.
If
your appliance has absolutely no functions at all, remove it from the
mains supply, remove the case and see where the mains lead goes in to
the appliance and follow the cable until you find the main fuse.
ONLY
USE THE SAME TYPE AND RATING OF FUSE TO REPLACE IT.
The usual
cause of this fuse failure is the door switches are contaminated or
sticking. Check the door switches before putting power back on to the
appliance.
Hope this helps.
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