The isnt getting hot enough. the flame stays on for a couple of seconds

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

GOD IS GOOD !!!! AND THAT IS WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

if the flame is lighting you have lint blocking the air flow either in the dryer or in the vent line,also if you have a flame for the first 10 to 20 minutes and then the flame doesn't light you have bad gas coils located on top of the gas valve,when the coils are bad they can work for the first 10 to 20 minutes until the coils get hot and then they fail and you'll see the ignitor glowing orange but no flame,bad gas coils.then when the coils cool down they can work again.hope this helps.you can try removing the vent line from the back of the dryer and see if the flame stays on,if lint is blocking the air from blowing out the flame won't stay lit long enough to dry the clothes.

This gas dryer uses automatic ignition. Their is no pilot. The gas valve assembly consists of a glowbar/ignitor, a flame detection sensor and a pair of coils all cleverly wired in a complex series circuit. When the fuse allows the control to flow power to the gas assembly all of the gas assembly components are energized. The coils cannot open the valve however as long as the ignitor is glowing. When it gets red hot it heats the bimetal inside the flame detector which shuts off the power to the ignitor. When the ignitor glows it holds open one of the gas coils. The other gas coil has enough juice for it to open, then ignition occurs. Depending on how many clothes is in the drum and how wet they are detirmins a burn period. With nothing in the drum it heats up to temp promptly and therefore the gas stays on a shorter period of time. So what can go wrong? The fuse mounted next to the control on the blower housing will melt if the blower wheel is wobbly and worn out or their is a lint build up causing air flow blockage. The control stat might be bad (doubtful) unless it ain't shutting down and is melting the fuse. If power is indeed getting to the gas assembly I would check the sensor first. if it is open circuit no power will get to the ignitor. If that is fine check the ignitor for continuity. Note: If it works a little but quits, replace them solenoid coils on the assembly. When they get aged they tend to quit when hot. My home movie of how it works:



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The ignitor is either going to be good or bad. If it fires off it is fine and if it is shutting down then the flame sensor is also working. That tells me your coils are weak and old.


Here is how it works and why I believe you need to get new coils: When the dryer is cool first thing in the morning the initial start up the fuse and control beside
it allow power to the gas assembly, the flame detector/sensor allows power to get to the ignitor and it begins to glow. 1800 degrees is what that baby puts out and at that point the flame sensor bi-metal bends and shuts down the ignitor. The holding coil and secondary coil will then have enough power partially because the ignitor is off and partially because the ignitor is now acting as a thermocouple. If for some reason the gas did not ignite then the ignitor would cool down and shut off the gas.
When the temp inside the drum gets to 160f that control beside the fuse shuts off the gas assembly, IF it don't shut down the gas then that fuse melts and shuts down the power to the gas assembly but it doe not shut down the dryer. The fuse is good though because you are getting power to the gas assembly AND the gas assembly is shutting down at 160f. The dryer keeps a tumbling around till the temp in the drum drops to 105f at that time the dryer wants another blast of hot air, trouble is the coils have gotten hot now, the ignitor is doing its thang, the flame sensor is doing its thang, the control is doing its thang. The only thing that ain't happening now is the coils ain't allowing gas to come out. Replace the coils and party on! More here


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First look for air restrictions which would cause overheating and remedy that. Then hunt down these duct fuses and check them for continuity. The gas dyer fuse kills only the circuit to the gas valve assembly so if it or the control klixon next to it is open then no power can get to the gas assembly. The gass assembly consists of a flame sensor , an ignitor, and a pair of solenoids. All are powered together in a complex circuit intentionally so that the power is first diverted to the ignitor which will nt allow the solenoid coils to do their job because their is not enough juice to work the ignitor and them coils. So the flame sensor detects the heat coming off the ignitor and a bi-metal inside bends and kills power to that ignitor. With the energy freed up them coils yank open the gas valve and the gas flows out onto the ignitor.


If the ignitor comes on and the flame sensor shuts it down but no gas comes out or gas comes out on first try but fails to fire off again then them solenoid coils need to be replaced. More Here

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Power from the control Klixon mounted on the blower housing energizes the gas valve assembly when the temp is below 105f and the dryer is set for heat. If that control is open then no power is applied and no heat. If a restriction causes the dryer to exceed 350 for some reason then the fuse next to the control Klixon melts. No power will get to the gas assembly but the dryer will run. On that gas assembly is an ignitor/flame detect sensor, an ignitor, and a pair of solenoids that open the gas valve. The flame sensor must have continuity. If it is open then no power will get to the ignitor. If the ignitor is broken you will also have nothing. The coils will not open the valve without a change in the resistance of the circuit. One of them coils has 3 wires and the other has 2. The sequence of gas valve operation is the flame sensor bi-metal has to open when the temp exceeds 1800f. this kills the power to the ignitor and flips the 3 wire coil so that the ignitor is now a thermocouple and the coils will yank open the gas valve. As long as that ignitor stays hot then the gas will continue to flow out the valve. If for some off reason the gas were not to ignite the ignitor would coold down and shut off the gas and that is your builtin safety. So what goes wrong? Blown thermal fuse, open control Klixon, open flame detect/sensor, open ignitor, or Intermittent coils,(the coils will get hot and quit with age.


Maytag dryer service manual and more HERE

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Their is no pilot light. The system uses a glowbarOPERATION
The newer dryers use a silicone carbide ignitor for ignition. If the Fuse is ok the gas assembly gets power from the control thermostat. The flame sensor allows the ignitor to go cat go. The coils themselves cannot open the gas because the ignitor is using a lot of power. When flame detect gets warm enough then it shuts down the ignitor and power is redirected on the other side of the 3 prong coil. The ignitor is not finished. It now is hot enough to act as a path to the secondary coil which energizes and sends that raw gas to the 1800f screaming hot ignitor. Igniton occurs and keeps the ignitor hot. If ignition at this point were to fail the ignitor would cool down and shut off the power to the secondary coil. Clever ain't it? So what can go wrong? Worn out flame sensor takes longer to reset, ignitor open. Clogged vent overheat fuse blown, bad thermostat, and faulty solenoids.If all is good it should continually shut on and off all during the cycle to regulate the heat


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The typical gas dryer set up: A thermostat is positioned on the blower housing to judge the drum temp. Next to it is a fuse. If the temp exceeds 350F then that fuse melts and kills the heat but the dryer will still run. When that thermostat wants heat it sends 120 volts to the gas assembly. The gas assembly consists of 2 coils a sensor and an ignitor. The coils work on 120 vac but they are tenderfoots. If anything is running on the same circuit with them they don't cooperate. Enter the big bad ignitor and its cousin, the flame sensor. Both these partners in crime work together to coax them coils into opening. How? The sensor ALLOWS power to the ignitor. When the ignitor is glowing hot as 3 yards of C of C hell then the sensor's bi-metal shuts that glow thingy down. This gives them voltage starved coils a chance to get busy. The surge of power energizes them coils and they yank up the gas gates, the raw gas flows out onto that screaming hot glow thingy and BOOM! Houstion we have ignition!!
As the temp rises inside the drum the control thermostat decides enough is enough and kills power to that gas assembly. The drum continues to rock and roll till the temp cools off and then the control thermostat calls for more heat. So what can go wrong? The flame sensor can die and not put power tot hat ignitor. The ignitor can die too. or both can be ok and the coils work a tad and then get hot and quit.


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You ignitor is working and sensor is working because it will fire up. so those pesky coils are intermittant because they get hot and quit cool off and work some more . replace them
Here is a little ditty I wrote some time ago about this subject
INTERMITTANT COILS



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Hello
Welcome to Fixya


Remove the vent line from the rear and try the dryer.
If it heats then that means there is a clog or kink in the vent line blocking the vent air from exiting which will stop the dryer from getting hot!
If not then it's another one of these problems.

Defective Ignitor (Gas Only)
When heated the ignitor used on your gas dryer must obtain a specific high temperature
in order to activate the flame sensor. This ignitor is fragile and susceptible to cracking.
A hairline fracture that is barely visible to the naked eye is enough to change
the resistance of the ignitor to a point that is will not work properly.
You can test the resistance of your ignitor. You should get a reading of 50-400 ohms of
resistance.

If the ignitor gets hot and then goes off after about 10-15 seconds and there is
no ignition, the problem is probably not the ignitor. It is most likely the gas valve
coils that are defective.

If the ignitor comes on and stays on, it is the flame sensor that is defective.

If the ignitor is not getting hot it could also be one of the thermostats that is defective.
The power for the ignitor is passed from the timer, through all of the thermostats,
limit switches and fuses to the ignitor. So if you are not getting power to the ignitor
during ignition, you should check the continuity of the individual thermostats and fuses.
DRYER DOES NOT HEAT



Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)

If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.

An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.

Recent Customer Symptoms:
The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.



Defective Flame Sensor (Gas Dryer Only)
The flame sensor's job is to monitor the ignitor for sufficient heat
to ignite the gas. A properly operating flame sensor will pass a
continuity check under room temperature.

Common Symptoms
If the flame sensor is defective in the open position,
the ignitor will not get hot when the dryer is started.
However, if it is defective in the closed position the ignitor
will get hot, but the flame sensor will not allow the flame to ignite.
In this case, the ignitor will usually stay hot for a long period of
time.



Defective Thermostat
The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature
in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the
temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change
the operating thermostat.

The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode.
It can prevent the element from heating at all.
A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.

There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw.
These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the
Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry
cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the
problem.


Defective Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is in series with one leg of power to the motor.
If the fuse is open (no continuity) the motor will not run.

Location:
The thermal fuse is located in different locations according
to the model and brand of dryer.

Solution:
Check the thermal fuse for continuity with a volt/ohm meter.
If it is open, it will need to be replaced






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