PTO clutch making a loud clicking noise.

The images I see look to have a keyway shaft, so the obvious thing would be that they are not lined up.

Parts schematics. Anything missing?

https://www.google.com/search?q=lt1050+parts+diagram

See if the videos help. They seems to be problematical.

https://www.google.com/search?q=LT1050+PTO+clutch+replacement

The seat occupied switch energizes the operator presence relay. This relay allows power to the PTO clutch from the PTO switch only when energized (operator in seat).

A simple test

1.PTO switch OFF
2.Ignition switch to ON position.
3.Engine not runnjng
4.Operator in seat

Pull PTO switch. You should hear the the clutch engage with a notable pop. Then turn off PTO and it will make another pop or clunk when it disengages.

Similarly with PTO engaged, if you rise from the seat it should disengage.


Also a failed charging system may allow the engine to start and run but not provide enough current to properly engage the electric PTO clutch. With engine running check battery voltage is greater than 13VDC.

Check all of your spindles to make sure no bearings are seized..also check all idler pulley bearings....good luck

sounds like the PTO is stuck on
does it make a clicking noise when you put swtch on?
remove clutch and bench test to see if it moves

Check the safety switch on the seat.

Most likely low tension. first, double and triple check the routing of the belt against the manual. then make sure you have the correct belt.

If your unit is a Kenmore or Whirlpool (there are several other brands that use many of the same parts) and is less than 6 years old then it may pay to first check and clean out the chopper assembly for hard debris. If that doesn't do it then you may want to consider replacing the motor and circulation pump as a complete unit for between $160 and $200. Not too difficult a task for a moderately handy guy with some tools. Maybe 2 hrs. The bearing itself is not serviceable I understand, and would be considerably more difficult. Over six years old then you can buy a great quality machine for about $500.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/howard_977676954994c5b2

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Tub Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the tub bearing might be worn out, this is a common problem. The bearing can be replaced.

Clutch If the washer is making a loud noise in the spin cycle, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may become loud during spin or just after the spin cycle finishes. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Drive Belt If the washer is making a loud noise the drive belt might be defective. Over time the drive belt will dry out and start cracking, eventually a piece of the belt can break off resulting in a loud noise whenever the motor is running.

Transmission If the washer is making a loud noise the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are many other more likely causes for noise from a washer. If the noise turns out to be caused by the transmission it may have to be replaced.

Transmission If the washer is making a loud noise the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are many other more likely causes for noise from a washer. If the noise turns out to be caused by the transmission it may have to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

Water Inlet Valve If the washer is noisy or loud, particularly when the washer is filling, the water inlet valve is at fault. Replace it.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer is making a loud noise the tub seal and bearing kit may need to be replaced. This is a common problem and the parts are relatively easy to replace.
Rear Drum with Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the rear drum with bearing might need to be replace. On this washer the bearing is not sold separately, the entire rear drum will have to be replaced. This is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. However, the problem is going to get worse very quickly and so either the drum and bearing will need to be replaced or the washing machine.

Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the bearing might be worn out. As bearings wear out from friction they gradually get worse and worse until they fail. In the meantime they get louder. If the noise primarily happens during the spin cycle the bearing is likely the problem.
Drive Pulley If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.

Pulley If the washer is making a loud noise the pump may be worn out, or something might be caught in it. Remove the pump and inspect it for debris. If it is clear and the blades spin freely the problem might be somewhere else.
U-Joint Kit If the washer is making a loud noise the U-Joint may have failed. This is the primary drive mechanism for the agitation motion in this washer. Although this is not a very difficult repair for a DIY'er with some experience, the part is expensive and so it may be worth considering a new washer.

Motor Coupling If the washer is making a loud noise the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission

Electric clutch is going bad and mower doesn't have enough power to run the clutch. Clutch is running tight new clutch is around 270.00 dollars

My Maytag Performa was making the loud squealing noise. I changed out the water pump/bearing, took care of the problem.
Putting a new belt on just help burn up the bearing (they needed replacing) and probably ruined the new belt. Probably seized the water pump bearing and the belt jumped and broke the motor pully. A washing machine motor is very strong, when that h20 pump bearing seized (or possibly some bearings jamed up) the motor kept on turning that belt and the plastic pully gave in. You'll need to replace that also. If the h20 pumb bearing is turning freely, likely the bearings jammed up but or now loose. That bearing should be tight, no slack or play in it. You can probably wobble the pully on it all around while turning it. The slightest slack is too much.