Question about Fisher and Paykel WA37T26G Top Load Washer

Open Question

Diverter valve Laundry is not getting clean could it be a clogged diverter valve? Dirty laundry? Lint?

Posted by Anonymous on


5 Related Answers


  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: fisher paykel empties as it fills (similiar to recent entry)

I had the same problem with my Fisher and Paykel washer. I replaced the diverter valve and it seems to be working fine. (Although I have only run one load so far.) I ordered the part from Fisher and Paykel. It came in 5 days. It was under $25, and it was simple to replace. Just make sure you get all of the water out of the washer first. There is a surprising amount underneath that has the potential to cause big problems if it leaks onto the pump.

Posted on Jan 25, 2008



  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel Pride 5.5

sure lean washer back against wall diverter valve on bottom rear next to pump probably just clogged with lint

Posted on Jul 05, 2008


SOURCE: F & P - GWL10 - Diverter Valve issue

Sounds like you might have the drain hose too far down the stand pipe and it's siphoning, try bringing the drain hose up a little.

Posted on Jul 15, 2008


  • 145 Answers

SOURCE: fisher paykel gwl11

Hi Alan.. usually if there is a problem where the diverter valve is not sensed by the machine control, it will throw a fault code and beep and not complete the cycle. There should be a tech sheet under the control panel. Did you make sure you properly re-connected the two orange wires on your new diverter valve?
I certainly have encountered several over the years where the control stops puting voltage to the diverter in recirculate mode.

If you want to be able to use all the cycles on the machine, then you need a new control board. That is part #420094USP and can be purchased from Fisher Paykel Parts direct;

If you need to do laundry in the meantime, use the PERMA PRESS wash cycle, it should work for you, as that cycle does not use the diverter valve.

Also inspect your water pump and make sure it isnot wet or leaky, as this can cause the machine control to either short out altogether or lose functionality on some cycls such as you are experiencing.

I hope this info is helpful to you.

Posted on Dec 15, 2008


  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Put in diagnostic mode. Pressed

the washer maching indicator sed that the maching is not level it worck 1 second and stop

Posted on Jan 16, 2011

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

HW5513M Hoover washer dryer has a coin filter which I clean regularly, but washer door seal (and hence laundry) has wet fluff buildup. How do I prevent this?

There should be a lint filter somewhere in the dryer. Even with a lint filter you are likely to get accumulation around the door seal.

Aug 14, 2016 | Hoover Washing Machines

1 Answer

Dryer is putting hot air in the Landry room

Most likely your vent is clogged and check for clogged vent and heating element and clean lint filter housing with vacuum

Dec 09, 2013 | Samsung White 7.4 Super Capacity Electric...

1 Answer

Diverter valve clog

Take the diverter valve out remove the brown wax solenoid don't get it wet.
and un-clip the casing carefully not to break clips,
remove all lint jammed in the hinge valve,
Non energized wax solenoid outputs to drain pipe
reassemble and test.


Apr 21, 2013 | Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

1 Answer

Wsm2700dawww dryer will spin laundry still wet

Possible that the speed is of the spin is not enough, check the belt , check for friction to the shaft in the washer.
finally check the drain valve /pump as if there is water logged on without flushing then the valve is clogged or dirty.

Aug 23, 2012 | GE WSM2480DWW Unitized Spacemaker Washer...

1 Answer

Water sprays out and runs on floor during final spin cycle.

Sounds like a clog, either the drain tube, drain hose, or drain pump/diverter valve.
  1. If your drain hose is connected to a drain tube/pipe, it's possible there's a clog in the plumbing somewhere. Running a snake through the drain tube should fix this
  2. Disconnect the drain hose and look for a blockage. Sometimes lint, or paper will become lodged inside the hose and water will back up
  3. The drain pump/diverter valve is a common place for a backup to occur. To inspect the drain pump, unplug the machine and disconnect the drain hose from the drain tube. Put down a blanket or towel and tilt the machine forward. At the bottom of the machine you will see the drain pump with a hose connected by a clamp. Using pliers, disconnect the clamp. There may also be a mounting screw holding the drain pump in place. Unscrew the mounting screw. Now the pump should pull away freely. Using a small flathead screwdriver or tweezers or even needlenose pliers, you should be able to dig out any obstruction. Typically paper that has fallen out of pockets will get stuck in the drain pump forcing water in the other direction, causing it to spill out onto the floor.
Below is a helpful video to both check and remove a drain pump / diverter valve.

Sep 09, 2011 | Fisher Paykel EcoSmart GWL15

2 Answers

I would like to clean the inside drum on the outside. The washing has dark spots on it once its been washed. I have used hot water and done a whole cycle but its still dirty.


Maintaining a clean washer helps to ensure that the laundry looks its brightest and smells its freshest.

Follow a few simple strategies on a regular basis, and your washer will produce the results that you want.
Fortunately, most of these cleaning steps are only necessary on an as needed basis. If you prefer, complete most of them once a month for a sparkling clean washing machine. Follow these helpful pointers.

Goog luck.

  • Wipe the outside of your washer with a soft cloth and a mild solution of soap. This is especially important if you use the washer lid as a landing station for your laundry.
  • Whenever a load of wash is extremely dirty and leaves a bit of residue on the interior or inner tub of your washer, use a clean, damp cloth to wipe it clean.
  • If your washer is equipped with a lint filter, remove all lint accumulation on a regular basis such as after every wash cycle.
  • Clean the bleach and fabric softener dispensers as soon as they show any sign of dirt or residue. Avoid using laundry detergent to clean the fabric softener dispenser since it may interact with the fabric softener the next time you use it.
  • If desired, apply a coating of appliance wax following the instructions provided with the container. This helps to protect the exterior of your washer.
  • If your washing machine is set up to drain into a laundry tub, you should have a strainer placed in the drain to gather all traces of lint and larger particles of dirt. If the plumbing becomes clogged, your washer may not work properly. A clogged drain can prevent the water from draining properly. Remove any build-up in the strainer after each washing cycle.
  • Clean the washing machine about once a month by running a hot water cycle with bleach. Be sure that you do not use more than the recommended dosage of bleach for your washer. This information may be visible on the bleach dispenser or in the washer's manual.
  • Clean underneath the lid of the washer using a soft cloth or sponge and clean water or a mild soap solution. While you are at it, clean the top of the washer that sits beneath the lid as well.
  • If you have hard water and mineral deposits have appeared on your machine, refer to your manual for removal instructions. If you do not have the manual, contact the manufacturer by telephone or email. Additionally, you can search online for possible suggestions. Certain types of materials may not react well to specific cleaning methods; therefore, it is essential that you check before you use anything such as vinegar or a cleaning agent that includes vinegar.

Aug 02, 2011 | LG WFT1071TP Top Load Washer

1 Answer

My washing machine drain line seems to be clogged. Washer seems fine so I have deduced that the drain line is either clogged or isn't ventilated properly on my roof. Is there a way to determine which...

First off if you don't have plastic pipe chemicals will eat up,most laundry's have a floor drain if thats backing up then your drain is plugged.A lot of laundry set-ups are on the same drain as kitchen and the two together are a problum sometimes.Drain-o is not the way to go,I would rent a small drill auger or get your neighborhood drain guy to unplug,some laundry lins have a 25-30 ft run under the concrete and can be a task for homeowner,ps if your draining into laundry tub check strainer for lint

Jan 28, 2011 | Plumbing

1 Answer

The clothes simply won't dry. I know it is producing heat because the clothes are warm and the heating element is hot to the touch, but the air that is coming out the back is not hot at all. I have...

The valve resistance is 1995 ohms and the ignitor is 185.
Inspect the dryer venting from the rear of the dryer to the outside vent hood of the home.
If there's a restriction in the vent--the clothing in the dryer takes longer to dry.
When the dryer is functioning normally---the time required to dry laundry is determined by the *Sensor* located on the drum side of the lint filter housing and by the main control board.
When laundry is near dry--any Time Remaining on the control panel that is *not* needed will be eliminated---except for the last 6 minutes.
The final 6 minutes of any automatic cycle is for cooling down the laundry before the dryer ends the cycle.
If a dryer *counts down* to the last 6 minutes but the laundry is still not dry--the computer will allow the dryer to run until the laundry has dried or defaults (not drying within the additional time allowed).
Dryer vents that are longer than 8 feet with more than (2) 90 degree turns--can affect drying performance.
Setting the DRY LEVEL selector to *Very Dry* will solve most dryability issues. In homes with abnormally long vents--even the longer run time in the *Very Dry* setting is usually not sufficient to dry laundry loads.
Reducing the length of the vent or starting a second cycle becomes necessary to fully dry the clothing.
If a second cycle was started---only the amount of time that is needed to dry laundry will be used before dropping to 6 minutes and then the cycle will end with dry laundry.

LG gas dryers are more sensitive to venting length and air flow resistance. The gas burner can cause a rapid increase in temperature compared to an electric burner.
Rapid temperature rise in a gas dryer leads to premature burner shutdown (longer time required to dry laundry).
The gradual temperature increase of an electric element is more "forgiving" in homes where the dryer venting is less than ideal.

The dryer has an auto dry feature which never fully dries the clothes so we wind up manually setting the dry time to an hour
LG gas dryers are VERY temperamental in long vent set-ups. If fabric softener sheets are used in the dryer--clean the two stainless steel strips of metal on the lint filter housing with a SCOTCHBRITE PAD--scrub back & forth several times to remove the waxy residue from the fabric softener sheets. Most,if not all manufacturers do *not* recommend using sheets in dryers that have a moisture sensor (electrodes).
However--using a SCOTCHBRITE pad keeps the wax off those sensors which can be seen if looking *into* the dryer drum and at the lint filter housing.
If only *liquid* fabric softener is used in the washer--clean the dryer sensors once a month. Liquid softener also contains wax which can slowly accumulate on the dryer sensors from the laundry washed in the washer.
Hold down on the 'More Time' and 'Less Time' buttons and press the 'Power' button. if it comes up with tE1 or tE2 you have a thermistor error.


If you need further help, reach me via phone at

Jan 19, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

I am getting service code 37, what does that mean and how can I fix it?

It's error code 37 and it means pump blocked error. Either the drain hose is clogged or kinked, the diverter valve has failed, or the pump itself is restricted or not working at all. Check to make sure that the drain hose is clear then disconnect power and lay the machine on its front on a cushioned surface to access the drain pump and the diverter valve. Remove the pump's inlet and outlet hoses then check and clear them from any debris that may prevent water from draining out. Check the impeller for any damage or restriction. Make sure the impeller is not frozen or blocked.

Check the diverter valve for the same condition as the pump described above. The diverter valve is where the drain pump and the recirculation pump inlet hoses are attached from. Make sure the diverter valve is in the drain position while the drain pump is working. Replace the drain pump and/or the diverter valve if deemed necessary.

Dec 30, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel IWL12 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Hi, my washing machine is emptying the water as it is filling up on the wash cycle.

Hi Kala just read your posting.Is your machine draining into the laundry sink or some place else?If it is draining into the sink then the problem with your machine is the divert er valve.The diverter valve is in the drain out position when it should be in the recirculate position.There are 2 reasons that the valve is in this position,The 1sr the diverter is faulty or the 2nd the control module is faulty.Please reply on how you would like to proceed and I will help you as much as I can.Looking forward to your reply.

Oct 09, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel IWL12 Top Load Washer

Not finding what you are looking for?
Fisher and Paykel WA37T26G Top Load Washer Logo

Related Topics:

134 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines Experts

peter gittos
peter gittos

Level 2 Expert

247 Answers


Level 3 Expert

85239 Answers

Poppa Maddo
Poppa Maddo

Level 2 Expert

372 Answers

Are you a Fisher and Paykel Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides