How do I replace the fuse?

I'm sorry to hear that your Sunvision Model L-28LEB is not turning on. It is possible that the power surges may have caused some damage to the internal components of the device. However, before jumping to any conclusions, let's check if the fuse is the culprit.
According to the user manual for the Sunvision Model L-28LEB, the fuse is located on the power supply board inside the device. To access the power supply board, you will need to remove the back cover of the device.
Here are the steps to remove the back cover and access the power supply board:

1. Turn off the power to the device and unplug it from the electrical outlet.
2. Locate the screws that hold the back cover in place. These are typically located on the edges of the back cover.
3. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws and carefully remove the back cover.
4. Look for the power supply board inside the device. It is usually located near where the power cord enters the device.
5. Check the fuse on the power supply board. It is a small, cylindrical component with metal ends.
6. If the fuse is blown, replace it with a new one of the same rating. The rating should be listed on the fuse itself or in the user manual.
7. Reassemble the device by replacing the back cover and securing it with the screws.

If the fuse is not the problem, there may be other issues with the internal components of the device. In that case, it may be best to contact a qualified technician for repair or replacement.

Check your fuse box ,on newer cars and trucks they are large metal encased fuses usually under the hood in relay box or under back seat,should be able to find exact location in owners manual .

Tech guys only.. Remove rare,side,top covers, rare metal sheet cover, you can see the Low vol power supply, check input 220V/110V(depends power standards) fuse. If fuse burnt check primary section is there any component failed? replace same rated fuse the try it.. if successful no issue, if fuse burnt repeats replace "Power Supply".
If fuse burnt after fuser drive starts, replace another fuser then try it. (faulty fuser also one of the cause to fuse burnt)

Hello,
Problem is in either power supply or the Y-Sustain board.
The Y-Sustain is a relatively large board out of which go connections to the side of the display; it's therefore closer to either the left or the right side of the display, has at least one rather large heat sink on it and fat power cables connecting it to the main power supply.
Often there are fuses on that board - one or more. Check those.
if they are blown you can try to replace them, but expect them to blow again - usually the whole board needs to be replaced.
often that *needs* to be done in a service center as there are some adjustments to be made after replacement. If otherwise The T-CON board is usually under a metal shield cover and sitting on the middle top section of the screen, you will see a very thin connector with VERY SMALL WIRE attached to it, be real careful when you try to remove this connector.
Make sure the number as printed onthe PCB match the one you are getting, since TV can have more than one version. As you can see, there is F1 fuse on the left side of the connector. Check to see if you do have 12v on it and it is not blown. Hope this will help to solve the problem....

Hello,

Problem is in either power supply or the Y-Sustain board.

The Y-Sustain is a relatively large board out of which go connections to the side of the display; it's therefore closer to either the left or the right side of the display, has at least one rather large heat sink on it and fat power cables connecting it to the main power supply.

Often there are fuses on that board - one or more. Check those.

if they are blown you can try to replace them, but expect them to blow again - usually the whole board needs to be replaced.


I hope this will help in solving the problem....

Not unless all that,is on the same fusible link.

hi. I had the same problem and to fix it you need to take printers right-side cover off. Underneath you'll find a Power Supply Board - hidden under metal cover. Take it out and disconnect two cables from it. Now, I had to replace an fuse 125V 4A and varistor E241AD 83P on the Power Supply Board in mine HL-2140. It works fine now.

Note: I could not find the exact replacements in electronic store so I used:

- fuse: 250V 4A

- varistor: FNR 10K241 (241 is the important number)

Hope it helps.

The fuse is a round type soldered into the power supply curcuit board. This board is not the board that the power coard plugs into, but is located on top to the right with a screen metal covering. The power supply leads run to the top of the board . Two wires on a connector blue and brown. The round black fuse thing is right below the brown wire. Not sure were to get a replacement fuse, will have to unsolder it from the board.

yes, there is a fuse, two actually, inside the unit. My 7820N died after a power surge. here is how I fixed it.

unplug the power cord
raise the glass/ feeder assembly
open the front cover and remove the toner cartride.
Remove the phillips screw on the right side of the printer (same side as the power switch)
open the back paper path cover and remove the phillips screw
Flip the printer on its side and using a small screwdriver, press in the tabs that hold on the side cover. as with everything plastic, be careful since things break easily.

Once the side cover is off, remove the screws holding down the large metal cover over the power supply
Remove the screws holding the circuit board.
remove the three connectors on the front side of the board and flip it around.

By the time you have reached this point, you have probably noticed little pieces of fuse and MOV scattered around the inside of the unit, assuming you had a good power spike.

The fuse that blew for me as a 4 amp, fast blow fuse. It is soldered into the circuit board. I unsoldered the ends of the fuse that remained and soldered in a new 4 amp 5x20mm fast blow fuse. the MOV was also blasted, but I didn't have one of those to replace it and you can't get them at Radio Shack. I'll just plug it into a surge suppressor which will accomplish the same thing.

After reassembling, I was back in business.

Under your hoods you should find a box like cover which covers your primary fuses and relays. In the old days, there were fusible links in vehicles which supplied primary power to different systems, for instance one to ignition, one to the interior dash panel and instruments, and another to exterior electrical and lighting. In newer vehicles like yours the old fusible links (which were basically a large gauge wire with a metal strip inline) have been replaced by heavy duty blade style fuses. You can purchase a very inexpensive automotive test probe which lights up when current is detected at almost any auto part store, or Wal-Mart (or similar stores). These probes look like a screwdriver with a pointed end and a wire coming from the back or out the side. The handles are clear plastic and have a bulb inside. The easiest way to test the fuses is to get one of those probes. If you choose to do so, simply connect the clip on the end of the wire to a piece of metal on or near your frame or engine. Remove the cover to expose the fuses. On each fuse you will see two metal points on either side that are exposed on the face of the fuse where the rating of the fuse is displayed. Turn the ignition key to the "on" position but don't start the vehicle. To verify that your probe is grounded (or earthed) touch the pointed end to your positive battery cable. It should light up. If not, select a different metal location to connect the ground clip to. Be sure that you are not connecting the ground clip to any wires, as they may be "live" and you could cause a short! After finding a good ground, test your probe again. Once you get it to light when touching the positive battery terminal, you can begin testing fuses. Touch the pointed probe end to the small metal pieces on the fuses one at a time. Be sure to test both sides of each fuse. If you get no light on a particular fuse, jot down the name of the fuse. If you get light on both posts of a fuse, that fuse is good. If you get light on one side but not the other, it is again a a bad fuse.

Now, if any of your fuses tested as bad, replace them with the same rated fuse and try your vehicles out to see if power is restored to the missing systems. If power is not restored, or if none of the fuses test bad, go back to your list of fuses that did not light on either of their test points.

Check the names or numbered locations of those fuses against your owner manual to see if they have anything to do with the place where you are missing power. If this is the case, you can try replacing the relevant fuse. However, normally if a fuse does not light on either test point it means that there is no power being supplied to the fuse itself, which means you likely have a broken wire or bad connection to the "fuse block" which supplies power to the fuse itself, and from there to your inoperative system(s).

Let me know how the tests go and I'll see if I can help you further if need be!