What isf10 on kenmore wall oven, how do you stop the beeping, and is there a fire hazard

SOURCE: Kenmore Oven going crazy

The bang may have been an element arcing over.  Turn off the power and remove the element.  If it shows any form of damage, replace it.  If you're not sure, use a continuity checker to check it.  If you have two elements...do this for both.  You will likely find the problem.

SOURCE: kenmore double wall oven keeps beeping

I have a whirlpool stove and when I try to clean it after awhile it starts beeping and comes accross with E1 & F5 the oven when its to clean dosen't seem like its locking. How can I fix this problem. Ive missplaced my book somewhere and can't seem to find it. My timer and clock is digital. Can you help me solve this problem? Thanks!

SOURCE: Kenmore oven keeps beeping, shows F7 on display.

Please, don't replace anything before trying this first! The insulation in the ribbon cable is poor, so the conductors in the cable become crossed. The ribbon cable is actually two ribbons pressed together, and the conductors between the two cables are shorting or becomming crossed. Lift the two cables apart, place a piece of paper between them, fold the edges of the paper over the cable so that it does not slip out, and make sure to shove it all the way down to where it will meet the plastic display panel housing. There, problem solved, and you didn't have to buy new parts.

SOURCE: error code f7 on Kenmore wall oven 911.41165791

The F7 error code indicates that one or more potentiometers (burner switches) are not connected properly or that you have one or more failed potentiometers.
The specific details of this failure code are provided in the second image below.
This is an excerpt from the technical information for this range.
Normally, a service technician would be needed to conduct the troubleshooting and diagnosis for this type of failure.
If you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely unplug the range and access these potentiometers (54 in the third image example) you may be able to check for loose or broken wires that could be causing this code.
If no loose wires are found, then you will likely need to have a technician find and replace a failed potentiometer.

IMAGE1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wfdddkwdfrwkdtqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/gfwdtqtbrxgdkgqwqtb/1/1303472/5961857/image11662img-or.gif

IMAGE2: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wfdddbrbbbbgfttxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/gsfkbbsqqxgdtwdgbsg/1/1303472/5961857/image11663img-or.gif

IMAGE3: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wfddfqsqwsbqtrwxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/gtfggdrdwxgftrgbbtf/1/1303472/5961857/image11664img-or.gif


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SOURCE: oven "beeping" wont stop

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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