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Anonymous Posted on Apr 28, 2014

I a 15000 btu dometic conditioner on my 2013 heartland 5th wheel and the thermostate won't go above 32 degrees. whats happening?

1 Answer

william simpson

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  • Dometic Master 1,363 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 20, 2015
william simpson
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Joined: Jan 17, 2012
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Interior temperture sensor thermostat or communication cable.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 27, 2008

SOURCE: heat strip installation

It was quite simple, just installing the heat strip and my model only required removing the grill cover and mounting the element. The other optional installations didn't apply to my model.

thanks,
Don

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Anonymous

  • 334 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 18, 2009

SOURCE: no power to thermostate on Duo Therm 15000

Look for a small fuse somewhere in the control panel. Usually a blade type (car) fuse 3 to 5 amp. Chack to see if its blown. If you have no fuse, or its NOT blown. Check to see if you have voltage comming out of, and going into the transformer.

Thsi is where you would START to diagnose the problem. Check this and we can go further.

Anonymous

  • 462 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 02, 2009

SOURCE: wont work

Well the 1st thing is see if your compressor is hot, warm, cold to the touch after yourve tried to run it for 30 min to 1hr.

If its cold proceed to check the voltage at terminals R and C. Careful they might be hot electrically. If its cold my bet is your thermostat or Contactor if so equiped is not closing. A thermostat you can wire around putting the wires together for a test (remove power before this though) Usually if you have a contactor you may be able to see the points and push the center bar (plastic bar) in and see if the comprtessor starts.
SOme times some of the units have an extra set of contacts on the Swich that you turn it on to cool with and these have to close also. If you check across the terminals of the thermostat or contactor or switch with knowing which one is the line in and which one is going out to compresso or next control in circut it should read NO VOLTS or vary few <10 on a digital meter.If it ranges between line and 10 volts you have found the most likely suspect of the problem. wire. If this is confusing I could send you or fax you an explanation. control
If power is there to R & C and the motor is HOT or warm The problem could be a dirty outdoor coil or a bad run capacitor. Disconnect power and remove capicator. Let the Compressor motor cool off for at least 4 hours and maybe over night. Remove 3 wires on Compressor and check across all 3 to each other you should read the least resistance tween R-C the most tween R-S and a reading tween these 2 tween C-S. If these readings check out (They could range widely as to the mfg of the compressor motor but they are required to follow the description I stated). If you now have these treminals checked and thar are as stated reconnect wires. Assuming you have power to the compressor at R-C next have some one turn it on and see what you hear. A momentary hum or does it start running. A momentary hum could mean the compressor is stuck or the run capicator is faulty. Check the run capicator. The case will usually be Gray or Auluminum and may have 2 or 3 terminal sets with 2 to 8 wires. It is important to replace then to the exact terminals so make a diagram before or as you remove them. Examine the case for signs of oil leakage or swelling. the tops and bottoms are generally flat so if it isnt take it to a parts house and let them check it for you. If it still dosnt work ask the parts houst for a quick Start/ relay - capicator assembly to try. If this breakes it free then there you go if not and you ahve power to the terminals looks like compressor is gone.

falspet

Fal Mueller

  • 438 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 28, 2010

SOURCE: two air conditioners & two furnaces with one thermostat

use relays to combine the to and isolate from each other or observing polarity's, you should be able to parallel the connections from your thermostat

Anonymous

  • 332 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 11, 2010

SOURCE: I have a 13500 btu ac dometic penguin model on pan

Your choices are another Dometic or a Coleman
I prefer the Coleman But the amount of extra cooling you will get by stepping up to a 15K unit will probability not be worth the added cost

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I have a Dometic 15K roof Ac on my FW. After the AC reaches therm temp, the compressor and the fan turn off, but the fan starts right back up again and runs until you set the thermostat on off.

That is normal operation, only the compressor cycles, the fan stays running to keep air circulating for better temp control. Otherwise the rear of the space could get 5 degrees warmer than the front

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_70df8fb57a5e233e

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check your d.c. fuses and circuit brreakers. need a full 12 volts d.c. to operate.
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For an RV 15000 BTU air conditioner the size being maximum for 115 volts ac you will need to have a independent circuit breaker for it only and rated at 20 amps. The average amps depends on serveral factors like actual supply voltage somtimes 110 to 120 volts and wire size and length feeding the air conditioner. To answer your question the average Amps will be near 13 Amps. Click Here=>

Dometic RV Air Conditioner Installation Manual and Specifications
Click here for a photo of the Electrical Spects.=>

Dometic_RV_Air_Conditioner_Electrical_Specifications
If you have any questions I will be here to answer them for you, Thanks, Sea Breeze

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We just bought a new 29" 5th wheel camper, that has one 15,000 BTU roof unit. Should this one unit cool the rv?

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Thanks for using Fixya
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No power to thermostate on Duo Therm 15000

Look for a small fuse somewhere in the control panel. Usually a blade type (car) fuse 3 to 5 amp. Chack to see if its blown. If you have no fuse, or its NOT blown. Check to see if you have voltage comming out of, and going into the transformer.

Thsi is where you would START to diagnose the problem. Check this and we can go further.
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