This is model 110. Agitates and drains fine. First sign was that clothes were not spinning as dry as they should. Next sign was a very loud knocking noise when it was spinning out. Now, it will not spin out at all and has a very loud roar when trying to enter the spin portion of the cycle. Any idea what part needs replaced? Thank you
This site was very helpful to determine problems I had and they have the repair parts. http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Washing-Machine-Repair-Help
Washing Machine Repair Help
SOURCE: kenmore series 80 washer makes loud knocking noise during spin cy
Unless your front loader is set firmly on concrete
and leveled to perfection, the force of a heavy wash load spinning in
excess of 1000rpm will create a bit of vibration and noise.A firm footing is your best defense against to much movement.
Also due to the earlier movements during the spin cycle, the
shocks that are used to dampen the spin cycle might have been broken or
damaged.
If the problem persists inspite of proper levelling, please do check for the shocks or might have them replaced them for good.
SOURCE: Kenmore 90 Series Washer
You have a broken lid switch. Its # ll in the diagram. Part # is 3949238. Let me know if you need info on how to replace it, Dave www.washermd.com
SOURCE: 90 Series Kenmore Washer Not going to spin cycle not draining water
I've had the same problem...you can purchase a replacement lid switch at your local appliance parts store for about $35. Fortunatly, the sales person at the appliance store had diagrams and provided instructions to replace the switch. I was able to finish the job and fix the switch in less than 1 hour. Good Luck.
SOURCE: Kenmore 70 Series washer - agitates and drains but does not spin
my kenmor washes and drains but does not spin, help
SOURCE: kenmore 80 series model 110 23832100 - Washer
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110+23832100&pathTaken=partSearch
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore service manuals for these washers.
WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.
See the following:
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin
gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
All told, fixing ours cost less than $30 including about 16 oz. of 80-90 weight gear oil (from an auto parts store) instead of $170 plus service for a new transmission.
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