Craftsman keyless start 650 will only run at half the throttle

SOURCE: yard machine 21'' push mower runs 2 to 3 seconds cuts off.

Tip the mower up on it's side with the dipstick tube on the down side and collect it in a suitable container. The gas you can do the same. When I drain old fuel, I mix it with a lot of fresh fuel and a bottle of dry gas then run it in my car.

SOURCE: MTD Yardman push mower runs fine for awhile then cuts off.

Try buying a new plug first but if it continues then I would say that there is debris in the carb.

SOURCE: yard man gas push mower starts but wont stay running

Hello jusapup68:

>>Did you Soak the Carburetor when you Cleaned it?
>>If No, then the Carburetor can Still be the Problem.
>>Does the Engine Start and Quit if you Pour a Small Amount (1/4 oz of Gas into the Carburetor and Try to Start the Engine?
>>If Yes, then Soak the Carburetor Overnight.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Mower at this Site Addy, http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/parts.asp and Select Shop Online Parts and Accessories. Now Select the Model Tab. Select the OEM (MTD) and Enter the Model Numbers. Now Double Click on the Model in the Results Area.
>>Have you Checked the Spark at the Plug?
>>Here is a Basic Instruction File I am in the Process of Making. It will Might Say Mower, but a Snow Thrower/Blower is Powered by the Same Type of Engine, so the Diagnostics are Basically the Same. >>***Here are some Diagnostic Instructions to Do on the Engine to Locate the Cause/Cure for a Hard/Not Starting Engine. This Does Not Include a Problem with the Valves. If I Suspected the Valves are Involved, then a Separate File for the Valves will be in this E-mail. This is a File in the Making, so Any Input is Appreciated.
>>1- Check the Spark. If Not Firing, then Replace the Plug.
>>2- If the Plug is Firing, then First, Pour a Small Amount of Gas (1oz) Into the Carburetor Throat with the Throttle at Full. With the Throttle Still at Full, Try to Start the Engine. If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor. If the Gas is Free Flowing, then Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl, Float Pin, Float and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.
>>3- If No Fire at the Plug, then Remove the Coil Shut Off Wire from the Kill Switch at the Engine Stop/Brake Bracket (where the End of the Stop/Brake Cable Attaches at the Engine). Check for Fire. If No Fire, then Remove the Blower Housing and Remove the Ground Wire from the Coil. Check for Fire. If Still No Fire, then the Coil is Bad. *On Some JD Model Mower the Engines Use an Igniter. Remove the Igniter and Coil and have your Local JD Dealer Test them for you.
>>* **On Models with Point Set, the Condenser is Bad and the Point Set and Condenser should be Replaced as a Unit. Make Sure the Point Set Plunger is Fully Extended when Setting the Point Set Gap to .020in.
>>** If there was No Response from the Engine When the Gas was Poured Into the Carburetor Throat and the Plug was Firing, then Check the Compression. If the Compression is Good, the Carburetor has Been Soaked and Cleaned and the Plug is Firing, then Check the Flywheel Key. If the Key is Damaged, then the Plug Firing is Incorrect to the Position of the Piston During the Compression (Power Stroke).
>>*** On the OHV and Some L-Head (Flat Head) Engines there is a Compression Release. The Exhaust Valve Clearance has to be Opened to .020in for the Compression Release Not to Operate; in Order to get a Correct Compression Reading.***
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

SOURCE: Hi/low idle

Ok. First do one thing. Remove the air cleaner and start the engine. With your finger, push against the side of the governor spring to raise the rpm's some and hold it there. Is the 'hunting' still there? The tab the spring is attached to adjusts the governor speed and being located where it is, is prone to being bumped while mowing, pushed in and lowering the engine speed. If it still surges, this is what I would do... Remove the fuel tank and carb assy.. Two bolts, one behind the gas cap and one on the end of the tank. Pull it straight off the intake pipe then unhook it from the throttle link. Now, empty the tank and unscrew the carb from the tank. Clean the carb with a can of carb cleaner. Slip the screen off the pickup and make sure it's clean. Discard the pump diaphragm and gasket. Buy a new pump diaphragm kit, part #795083. Clean the top of the tank where the pickup with the screen fits into. Put it back together. Remember to put the rubber diaphragm against the tank and the gasket on top of it then the carb. Don't forget to attach the breather tube when you're putting it back on the engine. That should fix 'er up. Also, if the rubber ring and plastic retainer ring came off on the intake pipe when you pulled the carb and tank off, snap them back in the end of the carb before sliding it back on the intake. Hope you can make sense of all this. Let me know how it goes. Dwain

SOURCE: briggs & stratton 4hp push mower

why dose my motor cycle up & down in rpms