The mower is not pulling.

if it will spin when you pick up on the front the belt may need replaced. they wear out over time

ether the spin wheel or clogged with dirt or they or worn out just because they spin doesnt mean there not worn out

Leave aside all the puffery about 3-1 and such, you described a front wheel drive (pull) walk-behind (FWD), but are asking why the rear wheels won't propel. When you push down the hand grip the front wheels should spin free. Whan you lower from wheels by releasing pressure on hand grips, turning wheels lowered to ground should propel the mower along with its unpowered rear wheels now turning be ground contact. Reminder, never, ever lift rear drive wheels of any mower off the ground while walking behind with engine running:

1. You could be struck by blade propelled object.
2. You could pull mower and spinning blade backward onto your feet.
3. You could lose balance and be pulled forward in a fall.

Contemporary FWD mowers are recognized by a black chain housing on deck top leading from engine to left front of deck. RWD propelling chains are situated underneath deck so cannot be seen from above.

Remove the center dust caps from the rear axles, start the tractor up and put it in gear and observe the axles, if one of them is spinning freely inside the wheel, you have lost the 1/4" square key that pins the wheel to the axle. Replace the key and you can go back to mowing. Hope this helped Tim

Sounds like power isn't the problem if the wheels keep spinning. Traction is the problem. You say pushing snow, that leads me to think you have a plow on it not a blower. I think this machine is too light for plowing, unless its light fluffy stuff. It would do better with a snow blower. Hope this helps.

turn it off,let the drive handle go,pull mower backwards.does it lock the back wheels?if you push it forward,can you hear a clicking noise from the wheels?you should do.lift mower,spin back wheel,should either lock,or click,depending which way you spin it.they have spring loaded pawls that drive the wheel.usually easy to fix.usually dirt,or too much grease.take wheels off,have a look

I believe you mean to say a 'reel' mower. Normally and old fashoined push (non-engine powered) mower.

Most consumer reel mowers do not need to be sharpened. They do however have a knife bed that occasionally needs to be adjusted. It should have the thickness of a regular piece of notebook paper between the blades and the knife bed. (that is really VERY close) You can buy 'lapping compound' from an automotive parts store, and apply that to the bed knife, and then rotate the blades to provide a precise fit for all blades.

Commercial reel mowers, such as those used on golf course equipment are however sharpened normally once or twice a year. It requireds dismantling, and many courses send their blades to a central location for golf equipment, where they are placed on a computer operated sharpener for precision grinding. This cost several hundreds of dollars just for the grinding.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae

lift seat remove battery & battery box acid from batt acid ate spring into should still be attached to hydro trammison

Bad news , Mower has sit up too long and the piston / crankshaft has become rusty and froze in place. (fix) buy some liquid wrench it comes in a can at your local hardware store...Tilt the mower onto its front wheels and remove the spark plug. Fill the Cylindar with the oil and leave it for a couple days. after a few days lean the mower back and attempt to pour out the left over oil. Then (Check Your Oil level) preferable replace old oil and pull choke..and start mower...if the engine is still frozen (Buy a New mower) 125bucks Sears.

on yours you must replace the entire tranny unit - to make it roll you can remove the front wheels and remove the small gear on both sides - doing this of course will turn it into a push mower not self propel