Hello and thanks in advance.
I have a Mission 700 AS subwoofer that recently blew the fuse that was in it. I read the back of the subwoofer fuse input area, and it listed a replacement fuse of 2A - 250V.
I purchased these fuses and it ate all three.
There was a dull hum just before it blew the fuse on each try.
Is the whole sub shot or am I using the wrong fuses?
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Hi, yes there is a rather simple method for testing the actual subwoofer unit, simply plug in a known good rca cord into the input-make sure if there is a switch for level input that it is on the back make sure it is switched to line and not level, next plug in rca cord, turn on unit-stick tip of finger on tip of rca cable. This should gernerate a"HUMM" in the subwoofer if everything is working correctly. Thanks for choosing FixYa, I hope this was of some help,good luck Prodzilla.
FL231. FUSE.... The RCA ITC222 chasis has a common problem. and it not all that difficult to repair. Does your rca projection tv have read blue and green shadows? Does it have bowing in affect on the top and bottom of picture? when you turn it on does some thin red green and blue line bow in from the top then go away. The main question to determine if you have the fl231 fuse problem is if you go into customer menu then setup do you have the "CONVERGENCE' option. If you do not. then i suspect you have this problem. In the manufactering of these sets Lead free solder is used. now there is great debate over the use of lead free. connection tend to be more brittle. cracks develop around the solder connections of the high voltage flyback transformer. this very small crack set up oscillations in the cuicit with a 400 milliamp fuse. THis fuse cant take it. When this fuse blows the processor then does not know its a projection tv with three projection tubes. it thinks its a crt tube tv. and crt tube tv dont need "convergence" so it removes the convergence from the set.
TO REPAIR... 1. Warning. this set can generate leathal dangerous voltages even unplug do not attempt if you have no experence with electronics. 2. Remove the back. there a number of torx 20 screws. 3. what you will see is a number of circit boards There will be one on the right and one on the left. the one on the right is the small signal board. the one on the left is called the power deflection board. it has a large black part with a big red or black wire coming from the top, this is the flyback.Next to the flyback on the right of it there will be three small rectangular componets tan or brown in color. these are fuses. the one in the middle is the fl231 fuse. 4. getting to this fuse can be difficult. these two cuicit boards sit on a tray that is removable. to remove this tray it is pulled out and up. BUt watch the wires.loosen the wire tyes. 5 when you get the tray up the bottom side of the board can be accessed you will now have to unsolder that fuse. one side of this fuse is under a plastic part of the tray. i have found the easest way is to cut away the plastic to get to it. if you dont want to do this you will have to remove the board. only remove half of the plastic brace 6. REPLACE FUSE RCA PART 259213 7 RESOLDER FLYBACK CONNECTIONS simply heat up and add a little solder 8 reassemble set. make sure you examine the set for loose connections. 9 and remember "BE Careful'
It is actually a 1.25A SB (for "slow blow") fuse. You can buy these at most any electronics parts source such as Sayal Electronics or Active. If the fuse is blowing though, there is likely another problem causing it to go. The electrolytic capacitors on the main amplifier board are prone to drying out and shorting so check them before you put a new fuse in. Look for signs of bulging on C10 or evidence of any excessive heat anywhere such as burnt looking parts.
If you have replaced with the correct rating and the fuse blows off then you will need to check for higher current drain in the sub woofer or the network. After replacing the fuse load up the subwoofer slowly, reduce the bass and as you increase check at the point the fuse blows off. Now we need to analyse if the rating of the amplifier you are using is rated for the subwoofer. If your subwoofer has a higher rating you can increase the rating by about 25% and check again. Some amplifiers give a very higher voltage on full bass which could result in such a condition. Moderate this and check again. If the fuse stays Ok you can continue with this new rating.Otherwise the output of the amp at higher volume needs a confirmation. Hope this helps. Good day
Anything in the power supply will cause it, look for damage or burnt parts, anything on heatsink. A transistor with a short circuit. For instance if you put an ohm meter probe to the leg of one and the other probe on to another leg, it will be read on the meter as if you had put your probes on the same leg.
if you have access to a multimeter, you should test you impedance (ohms)
Ω, check to make sure the speakers reads higher than the amplifier needs; this will result in less strain on your amp and diminishement of sound...For example: if you connect two 4Ω
speakers in series it results an 8Ω circuit (least strain). and if you'd take the same two speakers and connect them in parralelle it would result in a 2Ω circuit (most strain).