Question about Harley Davidson Lands Phones
SOURCE: I have a 1984 Harley
coils can be tested dynamically with an oscilloscope which you probably do not have so your next best approach is a ohm meter. not knowing your coil will make it hard to suggest a reading but you can get the spec's from the manufacturer or web site. the primary side could be from one ohm to 3 to 5 typically, could be more depending on coil. you can also check the ohms on the secondary by probing the primary terminal and a secondary (plug wire hole) terminal. here you should have a few thousand ohms depending on coil. if you get no readings, then the coil is bad. by the way, if you are checking voltage as pyrhyc says, you will have 12 volts on both sides of the coil. why? most ignitions will open the ground side of the coil to make it fire because as the current is pulled down, the magnetic field will colapse inducing electrical current in the secondary thus firing the plug. one redneck check is to take a 12 volt battery and hook one wire to one primary terminal and drag the other wire across the other terminal (bike wires removed for test) and watch plugs, if you get fire, check module.
Posted on Aug 27, 2008
SOURCE: engine 2003 harley missing
could also be a crank position sensor if a late model bike. make sure power is not sporatic.(depends upon model) the power flows from ign sw. through a fuse or cicuit breaker (circuit breaker could have intermitant contact) then to handle bar sw. which could have the same problem, then to the bank angle sensor which could have the same problem and finally to the ign module. hey, pyrhyc, what is a jet seat? (what a fighter pilot sits in?) a jet is just an orfice, which i agree could wear but if it does, a rich mix will not miss. it will usually cause sooty plus or black smoke from the exhaust. if too rich, the bike will bog out and/or quit running. a lean mix will cause a misfire. if you are talking about the mix needle, it does not seat in the carb, it only controls the amount out fuel that slips though the main jet until wot. screaming chicken is a good module but i would not buy them when aftermarket is much better. unless it is strickly race, big brother still has his fingers in it and limits the full potential of the bike. higher revs are ok but there are other mods that need to be done before going there. the number one hold back is hd hydraulics. they are good for a stock setup only. there are cheap ways around this and then there are expensive ways are this.
Posted on Sep 07, 2008
The first thing I would look at is the accelerator pump in the carb. The original carburetor on your bike was a Kehin. The pump consists of a small cam, rod and diaphragm. Most likely the diaphragm has ruptured. Take the air cleaner off and at the bottom right of the carb there is a round boss the size of a quarter with a cast tube on top. Remove the 3 screws under the boss and a spring and the diapragm will fall out. Even if you don't see a hole, if the diaphragm is wet with fuel on the top, replace it. Hell, replace it anyway, it is not expensive. It is also possible the outlet plumbing is clogged. Spray some gumout through the discharge port (you will have to look at it from underneath to do this if the carb is still mounted) and it should exit at the little brass jet right in front of you. Make sure the tiny o-ring and the lip on the diaphragm are seated in their grooves when you reassemble it.
Posted on Dec 27, 2008
change the flexible feed pipe for the servo it runs off the inlet manifold left side to a metal pipe,if this goes porous then idle is rough brakes dont work right and as it get hot it will run like a demented old woman who smoke 80 a day
Posted on Jan 31, 2009
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