My brush piece is corroded

try this link below
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/hoover-u6630900-windtunnel-selfpropelled-bagless-vacuum-parts-c-37315_37337_37584.html

Hair and dust build up under the end caps of the brush roll and cause friction. Replace the brush roll and belt. Be sure to clean the brush roll frequently after use.

HI There,

The part that raises and lowers the height adjustment goes underneath of the hood on the vacuum cleaner, and is held on by the carpet height adjustment know on the top of the hood.

I've done a repair below that explains how to get the hood off of the roller brush housing, and replace the knob next to it which is the rug/floor selector knob which is the one right next to the height adjustment part. The repair on your machine will be the exact same process however. Hope this helped you:

Hello,

If you've already changed the belts and the machine still won't run, it can really be only a few things.

The first thing you should check to make sure that the roller brush is good. You may do this by removing the bottom plate, and then taking the roller brush out of the vacuum. Hold the bar using just your fingertips on the very ends of the brush on the bearing caps. With just holding the bearing caps with your fingers, use your thumbs to try and spin the bar. Does it spin freely without any resistance? If no, then you'll need to replace the roller brush. Here's a direct link to the exact roller brush for your Hoover Windtunnel Self-Propelled:
Hoover Windtunnel Agitator Brush Part # 48414069

If the roller brush spins freely several times on each spin, then your machine may possibly have a bad Rug / Floor actuator arm. This part controls the internal pulley that stops the roller brush when you turn it from carpet to floor mode.

I'm guessing that this is probably a more likely cause of your brushes not spinning. Here's how you can check this part:

Step 1. Make sure that the vacuum is unplugged. Turn the machine upside down so that the brushes are facing upwards. I find the easiest way to do this is to put the brushes on top of a counter top or work bench with the handle of the vacuum resting on the floor. Remove the four screws that hold the bottom plate in place. Remove the bottom plate, both belts and then the roller brush from the machine:



Step 2. There are 3 screws that hold the top brush cover in place that need to be removed. On the right side the screw is down below the transmission to the right. There's also a screw in the agitator tray, in the middle that needs to be removed. NOTE: This small screw in the agitator tray is only present on some models, you's may or may not have this little screw, but all models will have all other screws circled. I have circled both screws that need to be removed:



The screws on the left side that need to be removed are also circled. One screw holds the upper brush cover on, and the other two screws secure the hose in place. Remove all three screws as well as the transparent hose cover:



Step 3. After all of these screws have been removed, there are two clips that are the last things holding the top brush cover onto the vacuum. Use a flat head screwdriver to push these clips off on both the left and right sides. The right side clip is near the pulley that the flat belt rides on, and the left side clip is next to the internal hose.



Step 4. Once both of these clips have been pushed so the unhook from the lower agitator housing, remove the top cover. On the top you'll see two selector knows, one for the height adjustment, the other that controls the rug / floor setting. Turn the cover over and look at the opposite side of the knob that controls the rug / floor selector. There should be an arm that extends out that looks like this:




Sometimes this arm will break off, which will prevent the actuator arm from activating the rug carpet setting. The machine basically will always be set to bare surface floor mode. Is this arm broken off on yours? If yes, then here's how you can remove it from the machine.

Take your flathead screw driver, and place it underneath of the of selector knob on the top of the cover. Simply lightly pry upwards to separate the knob from the arm underneath:



Replace the actuator arm with a new one and see if this fixed your problem. If this was not the problem, there's really only one other possible thing it could be, but I rarely see this go bad. Please let me know if this fixed your problem, or if it is something else wrong. I'll be happy to then walk you through the last remaining possible problem.

I really hope that this repair was helpful to you. If you did find it to be helpful, help other Fixya users with the same problem find this repair by rating it helpful. You can do this by clicking on the thumbs up icons in the top of the repair.

Thank you very much,

Chris J.

Hello,

If you've already changed the belts and the machine still won't run, it can really be only a few things.

The first thing you should check to make sure that the roller brush is good. You may do this by removing the bottom plate, and then taking the roller brush out of the vacuum. Hold the bar using just your fingertips on the very ends of the brush on the bearing caps. With just holding the bearing caps with your fingers, use your thumbs to try and spin the bar. Does it spin freely without any resistance? If no, then you'll need to replace the roller brush. Here's a direct link to the exact roller brush for your Hoover Windtunnel Self-Propelled:
Hoover Windtunnel Agitator Brush Part # 48414069

If the roller brush spins freely several times on each spin, then your machine may possibly have a bad Rug / Floor actuator arm. This part controls the internal pulley that stops the roller brush when you turn it from carpet to floor mode.

I'm guessing that this is probably a more likely cause of your brushes not spinning. Here's how you can check this part:

Step 1. Make sure that the vacuum is unplugged. Turn the machine upside down so that the brushes are facing upwards. I find the easiest way to do this is to put the brushes on top of a counter top or work bench with the handle of the vacuum resting on the floor. Remove the four screws that hold the bottom plate in place. Remove the bottom plate, both belts and then the roller brush from the machine:



Step 2. There are 3 screws that hold the top brush cover in place that need to be removed. On the right side the screw is down below the transmission to the right. There's also a screw in the agitator tray, in the middle that needs to be removed. NOTE: This small screw in the agitator tray is only present on some models, you's may or may not have this little screw, but all models will have all other screws circled. I have circled both screws that need to be removed:



The screws on the left side that need to be removed are also circled. One screw holds the upper brush cover on, and the other two screws secure the hose in place. Remove all three screws as well as the transparent hose cover:



Step 3. After all of these screws have been removed, there are two clips that are the last things holding the top brush cover onto the vacuum. Use a flat head screwdriver to push these clips off on both the left and right sides. The right side clip is near the pulley that the flat belt rides on, and the left side clip is next to the internal hose.



Step 4. Once both of these clips have been pushed so the unhook from the lower agitator housing, remove the top cover. On the top you'll see two selector knows, one for the height adjustment, the other that controls the rug / floor setting. Turn the cover over and look at the opposite side of the knob that controls the rug / floor selector. There should be an arm that extends out that looks like this:




Sometimes this arm will break off, which will prevent the actuator arm from activating the rug carpet setting. The machine basically will always be set to bare surface floor mode. Is this arm broken off on yours? If yes, then here's how you can remove it from the machine.

Take your flathead screw driver, and place it underneath of the of selector knob on the top of the cover. Simply lightly pry upwards to separate the knob from the arm underneath:



Replace the actuator arm with a new one and see if this fixed your problem. If this was not the problem, there's really only one other possible thing it could be, but I rarely see this go bad. Please let me know if this fixed your problem, or if it is something else wrong. I'll be happy to then walk you through the last remaining possible problem.

I really hope that this repair was helpful to you. If you did find it to be helpful, help other Fixya users with the same problem find this repair by rating it helpful. You can do this by clicking on the thumbs up icons in the top of the repair.

Thank you very much,

Chris J.
GoVacuum

I have had problems with the belts on my Mach 5 overheating (smell of burning rubber) and also with the motor overheating and shutting down.
I learned the hard way that one of the issues might be that the roller/brush on the bottom of the unit has a metal bearing inside the roller/brush that can become clogged with hair (both human and pet hair) which effects performance of the unit.
It’s fairly easy to fix.
Lay the vacuum on the floor so that you can see the roller/brush. Then remove the phillip head screws that hold the protective plastic plate over the roller/brush. (There are about 6 screws that hold this plastic protective plate in place) Also, you will be removing the (1) screw that also holds the plastic plate over the belts. There are (2) belts that you can remove and when in doubt replace these (2) belts for around $9.00.
Once you have the protective plastic plate off that covers the roller/brush disconnect the belt is around the roller. Take the roller and cut off any hair that is wrapped around the roller. Next, grab the roller by each end and twist the ends caps and (1) of the ends will unscrew. Once you have unscrewed one of the ends remove any hair or dust that is trapped under this cap. (Be careful not to lose the small metal washer that sit on top of the bearing)You will notice under this cap is a metal bearing that can become clogged and jammed with hair. The hair should come out fairly easy and allow the brush to spin fairly easy once you have screwed the end caps back in place test that it spins freely. If it doesn’t spin freely replace the roller/brush with a new one for about $23.00.
When you put the belts back on the thick rubber one (Belt # 40201-271) has probably become stretched and should be replaced for about $3.00. The small diameter belt that goes over the roller/brush probably does not usually need to be replaced and does not usually fit very tight. I have heard that people will take the small roller/brush belt and turn it upside down to get a better fit.
I just did this on my Mach 5 and it runs like a new machine. I did end up replacing the roller/brush head.
Hopefully you will find this useful.

The problem I found with one a neighbor was tossing out is the bearings in the part that drives the brushes were stuck. Lubing them up solved the problem, but took a bit of work to get into. This also provides a good chance to clean the crud out of bits that usually don't get much attention. I found mine clogged with a fair amount of pet hair.


You'll need a Phillips & Flat Screwdriver, some light machine (3-in-1) oil or Lithium (white) grease, and a lot of patience. Having a pan or something handy to keep all the little bits organized would help.


First remove both the soap & recovery tanks, they'll just get in the way & are designed to be easily removed & replaced for filing/dumping. Be sure to fold the "wings" for the recovery tank in or they'll foul removing the cover later (as will the brush speed button).

The tricky part is getting the Brush Speed knob off. It's held on only by friction, but can be tough to pull for without breaking the plastic stick it's pushed onto.


Remove the brushes. There are 4 blocks between the outer & next in rollers. Put the flat screwdriver between the gray & clear plastic, pushing gently toward the brushes. This pushes a wedge away far enough from a hole in the gray plastic to "unhook" the brush housing from the main body. Once all 4 are clear, the brush assembly should pull out easily.

Remove the 2 big screws in front of the brushes and the one at the back of the clear plastic front of the vacuum bit. The small ones at the extreme front corners hold on the clear plastic front, and can be removed if you want to clean out the vacuum channel, but are not necessary to remove to remove the top.

Toward the back sides of the top are 2 slots that hold this part on. Once the front screws are removed & the front is loose, push the side in gently & you should be able to lift the back of the cover. Push in lift both side, the top should pop right off.

Now I have the top off, holding 2 black & 1 silver long screw. In the center-front of the new-exposed guts is a box with a round top & a cone at the front with 2 screws.

This is the Brush Motor Assembly, and it's actually vacuum-powered. Remove the 2 screws holding down the from, then look for 2 large holes on the bottom of the unit behind the black "squirter bar".

There's very long screws at the bottom of these holes that also hold down the brush motor.Once the 2 bottoms screws have been fully loosened & the top-front screws removed, the brush motor should pull up easily.

On the right is a square port, in front the the brush speed stick (where the gray button pops onto). on the left is a gray & black hose, these should pull off easily, but may have some liquid in them.

Pull out the brush motor & set it on a convenient spill-resistant work surface upside-down. You should see the square-hole drice for the brushes, a gray piece of plastic, & a cresent-shaped hole.

The port at the front & hole on bottom provide an air path for the vacuum to poll air through this assembly & spin the brushes. You should see 2 screws at the back of the motor & 2 more at the bottom of holes surrounded by the gray plastic. Remove all 4 screws.

You can now pull off the bottom cover with the gray plastic. Front to back you should see the brush drive gear, an intermidiate gear, ant one of the bearings for the fan that drives the whole thing. pulling out the bearing & gears to clean out this area & lube up the gears with some Lithium Grease helps, as well as making sure the bearing is well lubed with 3-in-1 oil and/or lithium grease.

The top is held on at this point with 4 platic clips. The top doesn't need to be removed unless you *really* have to see the fan. The clips can be broken off if one is not careful, and there's nothing in there to be lubed. Best to leave it as-is.

At the top of the driveshaft is a second sealed bearing. I couldn't figure out how to get it out without braking it, lube this one in place. The bearings are supposed to be sealed, so removing the black "washer" from the bearing is done completely at your own risk. I just put some oil on there, spun it to work it in, then repeated with the white grease.

Replace the intermediate gear, the brush drive gear, then the lower sealed bearing in that order. You can spin the gears to ensure they're spinning well. Mine was OK, but after a bit of use worked the grease in & the brushes really started spinning.

Keep in mind everything here except the screws is plastic, be creful to get a snug fit with the screws without overtightening. "Gorilla-ing" the screws will just break the plastic & make the whole adventure an exercise in frustration.

Reattach the bottom plate with all 4 screws, 2 in the holes in the gray plastic, 2 in the back.

Reattach the gray & balck hoses to the left side of the brush drive. They're 2 different sizes, so there's only 1 place the smaller hose will fit easily. Place the assembly back in the machine & replace the 2 screws in the front.

Flip the machine up so you can put the 2 really long screws back into the underside of the brush drive. There's 2 guide slots on either side, make sure the brush with the indicator wheel on top goes into the big hole on the right. You may need to spin the brushes a bit to get the center squure stick to line up with the hole in the drive gear. The brushes should pop back in easily if everything's lined up right.


Put the top cover on, making sure the Brush Speed stick & center screwhole line up, as well as the back sides snap into place.

Screw down the top, then flip the unit up so you can snap the bottom-front of the top over the gray wedges on the front, then screw into place.

Replace the Recovery Tank, fill & replace the solution tank, and test-drive.


Vanger Chevane.

Brush Disassembly Hoover STEAM VAC Owners Manual F9514-900 (F9514900) does not
explain how to take the brush assembly apart. The instructions are as
follows:

Figure 1 shows the key

features. There are two

clear plastic outer pieces

which are held onto the

white inner piece with 3

tabs each. The clear

plastic tabs go underneath

the corresponding white

extended tabs on the white

plastic inner piece.

Figure 2 shows where the

screwdriver is inserted

(flat blade) and gently

pushed down while pulling

the clear plastic outer

piece away from the inner

white piece.

Figure 3 shows assembled

unit. Note extended brush

axle goes in center, which

fits into the female drive

unit on the shampooer.

I used the hose nozzle out

on the lawn to direct high

velocity water stream

trying to get the hair out

of the brushes. Hair and

fuzz remarkably entrained

in brushes, but I got 90% of it out.

Make sure you have released the handle, as if you wanted to push the machine forward. If the handle is locked upright, the brushes do not spin.

If they still don't spin, you may have a broken belt. Look carefully at the base, on each side. As I face the front of mine, on the right side of the machine, a small belt goes around one brush and a small cog wheel. On the left side, a larger belt goes around both brushes. If either belt is broken, the brushes will not spin. This can happen if you let gunk build up inside the clear plastic side pieces or around or above the brushes. It's very important to constantly be cleaning your Bissell. The belts can be ordered online and replaced. See your owner's manual.

I just replaced mine last night. 1) take off the top belt cover. 2) take the water and cleaning solution tanks out then lay the unit on the side so the bottom of the cleaner is facing you (water and solution may leak out so you might want to do this on an old towel). 3) On the same side of the machine as the belt cover but on the bottom you'll see an orange piece (at least it is on mine) that is held in with one philips screw. Take the screw out then slide the orange plastic piece out (might need a pliers to help). 4) there is a black cover over the brush belt that has a tab on it. Pull on the tab and the brush roller on that side will come out of its place. 5) You'll see a cogged belt that drives the brushes. Just slip that off the drive on the machine. You don't need to take it out completely - just off the drive. 6) Slip the new belt (p/n 0100623) in and on to drive. It goes "inside" of where the cogged belt goes. 7) Slip the cogged brush belt back on. 8) push the brush roller and black belt cover back into position. 9) slide the orange plastic piece in place (make sure the belt cover is held in place by it) and screw it back on. 10) flip the cleaner so it is on its wheels again. 11) pull the new belt over the metal drive and manually get it kind of centered. Make sure it isn't touching any protruding plastic. 12) plug in the cleaner and quickly turn it on and off while looking at the new belt. You should see it self center. 13) put the top belt cover back on 14) insert water and cleaner tanks. 15) get to work.

It'll take less than 10 minutes to make this fix (less than 5 probably).

This is air-driven, the only way to clean it is to take it apart. Clean out the bearings and end pieces for the wheel. If it is metal, put a drop of lite weight oil on them, but if plastic, then don'f use oil. Use furniture wax to clean and lube if you need to. It needs to turn freely with no friction. If this doesn't help, then replace it.