Question about Benchmark 11065 Popcorn Maker

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Kettle does not heat up

All lights and switches operate normally. kettle stirrer also works, but kettle does not get hot... is there a fuse that i could replace or something?

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Jim Billie

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Just had the same problem. One of the thermostats is probably bad. In my case I replaced both and the heating elements because it was more cost effective. Aside from the drive motor not much else can go wrong. In my case it was worth the $200.00 to replace these items instead of $825.00 for a new kettle.

Posted on Oct 04, 2012

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Anonymous

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Yes the coil that heats up needs to be replaced....

Posted on Nov 17, 2007

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1 Answer

The green lights fuse has blown on my Le Chef kettle (keeps want to hot for 24 hours). How can I repair it or where can I take it for repair? Thanks? Dennis


If its a leaking gasket if the heating element is having short circuit or have a measure with the metal exterior is very rare must be only a melting wire, or a bad switch there is also a temp fuse between the element and the power cord.

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The kettle will not get hot! The light comes on and the #1 and #3 switch both light up, but no heat!?!?!


We disassembled the kettle and noticed that the black wire had been disconnected from the base connector which is attached to the heating element. We re-attached the wire clip to the harness and it heated up on the first try. Please note that you may need to crimp the wire connector to the base for a stronger hold. My guess is that as we were moving the unit back and forth the wire connector had seperated.

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Breville kettle blew fuse (trip switch) now won't switch on


If the 'neon' light is on, the power is getting to the kettle, so if its not heating up then the element must have broken.

This kettle has a little white trip switch inside the 'socket' of the kettle (not the base unit). If its not heating, light is not on and the plug fuse is OK, then poke the white trip until it clicks.

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Kettle lights but doesn't boil


Most likely the thermo fuse is blown.

You have to take the kettle apart and see the spec for the thermo fuse. You can get these at most any electronics parts supplier for appliances.

To change the thermo fuse you will need the proper crimp type connectors and the crimp tool. This is not able to be soldered. It runs too hot, and soldering in a circuit close to a heating element is not able to be used.

Before changing the thermo fuse, you can test it with an ohm meter. It should typicaly read about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. The heating element resistance should typicaly read about 8 to 12 ohms.

If the heating element reads below 6 to 7 ohms on a well calibrated ohm meter, or above 15 ohms, it is defective.

If the thermo fuse is blown, the kettle may have been left running when boiled out and over heated, or there is a short in the heating element.

If you feel that you are not comfortable to do this type of repair, it would be best to give the kettle out to an appliance service centre to have it serviced.

When you change the thermo fuse, and if it blows again the heating element is probably damaged. It must be replaced if possible, or if worth the cost.

On the other hand, if the kettle is more than a few years old and you don't want to go to all this trouble, you may want to consider to simply get a new one.

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This maybe the thermo fuse, and or the heating element that is defective. These parts must be properly replaced for safety issues.

Usually these appliances are not worth to service.

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HI,

OK, inside the unit there are three items, the heating element, thermostat, and thermal fuse.What has happened is the element got too hot and the thermal fuse opened.There is no reset button.In some cases you may run across a defective heating element or thermostat but its not common.The fix would probably be replacement of the thermostat and thermal fuse.For this, you would have to contact a small appliance repair center in your area.

Goodluck,
Please don't forget to rate the solution

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1 Answer

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I had a similar failure with my Braun WK600. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettleful's; so far so good!

Oh, and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault.

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Red light's on... but no hot water!


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There's a thermal cutout that trips if the regular safety switch isn't enough. According to the manual, if the thermal cutout trips you have to send it back to Breville for servicing.

That may be what happened, if just letting it cool down and trying again didn't work.

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