Light switch I installed the 5634 double switch but now the top switch controls both sets of lights that were previously controlled independently. The bottom switch does nothing. There are 3 wires that come out of the box with an extra white set that are twisted together in the back of the box. Of the 3 wires, 1 is white (connected to upper left nut, 2 are black (connected to the right side upper and lower nut). How can I re-wire this so each switch controls both lights independently? Thanks for your help.

If you are replacing an existing switch, either replace one wire at a time, or write down the wire colors from the old switch.
or look here: http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/LevitonSearchResults.jsp?kw=5634+wiring+diagram&tbon=D

Try the link below for a diagram.
I would think that you have one black feed and two black legs going out, and three common wires that should be wired together with a wire nut. Is this for a ceiling fan with a light? or ?

Hi Velie,

I am an electrician and can help you wire this switch. If I understand correctly, you have a two-gang switch box in the wall. In it, you have two switches installed. One switch is a 3-way type, and is one of two (or more) switches used to control preparation area lighting. The other switch is a single pole type and controls a light over your kitchen table. Right?

If this is correct, remove the double switch wall plate. Let's set aside concerns with the 3-way switch. We have nothing to do to this switch so we will not need to remove it from the box, nor will we need to disconnect it. It works independently of the switch that controls the light over the table.

Remove the switch that operates the light over the table. If it is indeed a single pole switch, it will have just two terminals for wires to connect. It will probably also have indications for ON and OFF on the handle. If installed correctly, flipping the toggle up or pressing the top of the switch will turn the light on. If is a 3-way switch, it will have terminals for 3 wires to connect. One of the terminals will be a dark color from the other two. Additionally, no ON and OFF markings are on the switch handle and the light may turn on in either handle position (depending on the position of other switches controlling the light). With this information, I assume that you have now verified that it is in fact, a single pole switch. Right?

If all is going as expected, then we can continue. Shut off the power. Since a single pole switch has only two wires to connect, this should be fairly easy to do. One terminal should have a single wire that goes to the light over the table. The other terminal should have a wire that is powered all the time. It is very possible that the wire that connects to this terminal is ALSO is connected to the the 3-way switch either directly, or by a short length of wire that has a wirenut to connect several wires together. If you need to verify a connection to the 3-way switch, remove the switch from the box if needed (do NOT disconnect any wires). The wire should be connected to the dark colored terminal screw of the 3-way switch. This would indicate that this wire - and those connected by wire nut to it - is the source of constant power. Carefully fold the wires into the box and re-secure the 3-way switch if you pulled it from the box.

You new switch has a single RED wire and TWO black wires. Twist a wirenut cap on ONE of the black wires (it does not matter which). Remove the wire that was determined to be powered all the time (was also connected to the 3-way's dark colored terminal) from the old switch, and twist it around the dimmer switch's remaining BLACK wire with a wirenut. Disconnect the remaining wire from the old switch and twist it around the dimmer switch's RED wire with a wirenut. Add the dimmer switch's GREEN wire in to the bundle of uninsulated ground wires in the wirenut inside the box. Fold all the wires gently into the box and secure the dimmer to the box. Install the wall plate and turn on the power.

I hope this helped & good luck!

GFCI device is not identified.

Leviton 5634 is typical double switch.
Open following link for image showing double switch connected to typical GFCI outlet.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html

Add a comment with details about your wiring and GFCI for more help

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Double check your wiring. If the fan came with the light kit already installed there should be two power supply wires protruding from the top of the canopy. One is for the fan (usually black) and the other is for the light(usually blue.) If you have only one wall switch to control both the fan and light, both of those wires should be connected to the black power wire from your ceiling. If you have two wall switches, one for the fan and one for the light, you should have two power wires coming from your ceiling (usually red and black.) Put the fan wire on one and the light wire on the other. If the light kit came seperately and was attached tho the fan, double-check those connections. Often the small stranded wires will pull out from under the wire nuts. Same for the wires at the top of the fan. Hope this helped in some way.

I assume these three wires are coming to the switch box via from the light/fan unit and the light/fan unit has a box with 5 wires in it, including a white and black from the electric panel, and that the neutral is not routed to your switch box. I think your mistake is assuming that the black wire in the switch box is the hot wire, but it is actually the red or the white. Try switching the wires on your switch so that the red is common, If that doesn't work, try the white as common. Or you might open the box where the fan is, and confirm which of your three wires is connected to the hot black wire. Please vote if you found this helpful.
Good luck, Al K

If this is a new installation and there was only one switch on the wall, say to control a light that was once there, then you have that switch hooked up only to the fan. If you want to control the light as well, it has to be wired up at the box where the fan attaches to the ceiling. HOWEVER, with only one switch, the light and fan will always be ON or OFF at the same time. You would need to wire in another switch to control the fan and lights independently.

The fact that top oven is 100degrees less than bottom is no relation between the two; they are controlled by independent stat controls and if the only way you know if the temp is correct, is to set a temp (such as 350 degrees) and put a thermometer in that oven to see if the thermometer is with in 25degrees of the control settting. You need to do this for the bottom oven as well to see if it is aslo within 25degrees of the setting. then you make adjustments for each unit independently. If the controls are mechanical (knob), then the adjustment is within the control (usually by removing knob and serching for a small screw). If the controls are electroonic, then you need to search the circuit board to see if there is adjstments mounted on the board. Goodluck,Macgivor

The reason the fan and light are running together is because the are both running on one power wire. The three wires you have in the wall are probably white black and bare copper. You need to run a four wire cable which has a white red black and bare copper in order for you to separate the light and fan and for the circuit to run properly. A DIY electrical book from lowes or the home depot would help you alot with your situation.

may i know the exact model # of your unit, and the part # of your switch control.

let me know, thanks.

micro