Washer started stopping during cycle, stating an error occurred. We did the self diagnosis, it stated to check and replace motor. We replaced the motor ASM, but the problem is not resolved. The washer will not make it through start up checks now. It gets to drive system check, and throws the same error code.
SOURCE: spin and agitate problem
Wald, a couple of things here, see if they apply to your situations. I have seen the speed selector switch on GE models go bad and send voltage to both, the high and low windings in the motor. This causes the motor to get real loud and but usually kicks out the overload in the motor. Another issue is the current jogging between the high and low windings causing a chunka-chunka-chunka effect. GE put out a motor kit with a new harness and start cap to correct this problem. Open the front panel of your washer by pusing in on the two clips just under the lid and pulling the front panel towards you. You should see the harness with the start capacitor on the right if you have the latest motor. If you are handy with a meter, you can check the white and white/red wire to the motor. If you have a steady 120 volts to the motor during this jogging, replace the motor with the new kit. Catriver..post back.
SOURCE: Dryer will not start. Ge DX4500EAoWW
You may have a bad timer: Also, there may be a separate thermal fuse for the motor, usually an inch long white plastic one attached to the blower housing.
SOURCE: GE Profile Harmony dryer error message
PCB is probably the printed circuit board. you'll need the model# off the dryer (not from the manual), then go to GE's website to get an idea of the cost ($150-200). It's located under the control panel of the dryer. GE calls it 'PWR/PCB ASM-MAIN'.
Is the dryer still under warranty?
SOURCE: GE washer WBVH6240; Won't tumble or spin with any kind of load but works fine empty
Hai
Check This,I think this may helps You,
Recently, our front-loading GE WBVH6240 washing machine (essentially
the same as the GE WBVH6260 and GE WHDVH626) stopped pumping out water,
leaving the machine filled with soapy suds. Internet research showed
that the solution was to pop off the front panel, open a drain, and
then take apart the motor. Fixing it took much longer than it should
have, because we could not find any photos or clear instructions as to
where the screws and cleavage points were. Therefore, I'm posting some
instructions with photos, with due credit for the basic process to http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/1482-ge-front-load-washer-wont-drain.html
Oh, and by the way - ours came without any serial number or model
number label on the side or, for that matter, on the back. Shame on
Sears or GE - though we probably should have noted this when it was
first delivered. We got the model number by looking it up in the
manual, matching the drawing to the machine.
First, a word on the pump. This is a DP40-018 Hanning Elektro Werke
design - you won’t find that on the Internet easily. However, a search
led me to hanning.de, which sells this assembly under the Hanning DP40
label. I suspect you can find a reseller eventually, for the pump
itself; the rest of the assembly is unlikely to ever be damaged. The
pump is made in China but we’re assured of Quality German Supervision
(those of us who have relatives with Volkswagen and Mercedes cars are
no longer convinced that German Supervision and Quality belong in the
same sentence).
The working parts of the machine are accessible once you’ve removed
the front panel. Underneath the front of the machine, if you bend down
far enough, you can see three white-painted screws. Use a good,
standard Philips screwdriver on these (#2 in our case). Get a good
amount of pressure on the screws before turning because GE was foolish
enough to get paint into the working part of the screw (that is, the
cross-hatch), and you don't want to strip these. They are not that hard
to get out, but again, you don’t want to strip them. Take out the three
screws, pull off the panel, and you can see everything.
The pump is very close to you, on the right-hand side, right in
front. First, get a big bucket - preferably several - and open up the
drain valve (righty-tighty, left-loosey, so go LEFT, or
counter-clockwise, to open it). Gallons of water will shoot out along
with whatever rubbish is in the machine - pebbles from your young
child, emory boards from your wife (or from you), marbles, coin
batteries, lots of small change, etc. This in itself may solve your
problem! but we might as well check the pump.
The pump screws are invisible unless you've taken off the hoses from
the pump. There are two of these, and if you take them off before you
drain the tub, you will have pretty well damaged the inside of your
washer. Try to catch the water that comes out when you take off the
hoses. My system is to use a locking pliers (vise-grips) to compress
the two parts of the clip together - set the vise-grips so the two
parts of the clip will just about touch each other. That will give you
enough wiggle room to slide off the hose, gently, while holding the
clip loose. Do not let the clip come back together over the hose. Gently
open up the vise-grips once you're out of the washer and drop the clamp
somewhere. Remember which clamp belongs to which hose (there are two
hoses). Also remember which hose goes to which part of the pump. You
should really be writing this down or something as you go. Photos of
inside-the-washer are difficult to get.
Now, you should be able to see one of the screws. It's a bit of a job to get the screwdriver vertical over the screws, but you can do it. Do not try to hold the screwdriver at an angle; you really do not want to strip these screws
and you don’t have to. They are not in very tight, and should come
right out. One screw is pretty far to the left; the other is roughly in
the middle of the pump; they are both on the far side of the pump and screw it down to the floor of the washer. Don’t try for the screws that hold the two parts of the pump together. The pump includes the drain-pipe!
It’s all one assembly and it’s sold that way by Hanning. You can see it
in the illustration at the top of this page. The pump is held in place
by fairly firm supports that, when you look at it from the front of the
washer, are behind the pump/pipe assembly.
To get the wires off, -- remembering which side each color wire is
on! -- squeeze hard and pull carefully, working each terminal off, but
without using so much force that you might break something or, when it
releases, slam your hand into the sharp metal edge. Pull at the
terminal, not at the wire - you don't want to break these, either,
unless you like using solder guns in tight spots. Now you can gently
push the pump/pipe assembly back, so that the white stubs on the
drain-pipe clear the little rubber washer things, and when it’s free
carefully lift it out of the washer.
Okay, now the pump is out. First, find the three visible screws that
hold the motor to the pipe assembly (two of them are visible in the
first photo, partly unscrewed), get a laundry marker, and mark the
plastic where the screws go in so that when you re-assemble, you don’t
have to figure out which holes they go into. Then separate the two
parts of the pump - the motor and the rest of it - by undoing the three
screws. We kept using our #2 Philips but a #1 might fit better; the
screws came right out so it wasn’t an issue. And look what we found: a
safety pin blocking the impeller (the moving part) from moving! No
wonder the pump was warm. (If the pump is not warm, that indicates no
current reaching it. However, on this washer, the pump does tend to get
blocked more than anything else.)
A new pump will run you at least $170, probably more, from GE, so
it’s well worth taking it apart and fixing it yourself, especially with
service calls at $70 per hour.
I tried to get some of the lint out, with moderate success. This is
a badly sealed pump and frankly I'm not impressed by the filter design,
either. Someone got cheap in the engineering process and did not
consider that owners do not want to take their pumps out every two
years. Be careful with what you put into the machine!
When you re-assemble the pump, make sure you put the screws back into the holes that have threads.
Putting everything back was easy enough - be careful about pushing
the white stubs into the black washer things (for the drain-pipe), and
you may find the wires a little short, but it’s easier than getting it
out. I had a photo of what the pump looked like before I took it apart,
and now you do to, so you can easily put it back together the right
way. The hardest part of getting everything back together was wiping up
the water that spilled from the hose, and then getting the outer lid
back on without someone to hold it in place.
Thank You
SOURCE: GE Harmony Washer- Error code- The motor is not rotating properly??
filter*** circuit = house circuit breaker or ???
There are 5 solutions for this problem
1) house voltage (voltage to low)
2) Inverter
3) Motor (if motor only turns in one direction)
4) wire connection to the low voltage
5) Hall sensor at rotor (only turns a 20% of speed)
let me know if I can help you more...
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