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Bulb does not come on

12v 100w bulb, have 8.3v ac at the connector, 0 dc v at the same connector. Fan runs, all others work,.

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SOURCE: Nikon Optiphot-2

You should start by changing the bulb, even though it looks ok chances are that it's no longer working. Do the same with the fuse if the new bulb doesn't work.

Test that power is reaching the socket with a voltmeter or a multimeter so ensure the wiring is ok with the new fuse. If no power is reaching the bulb socket, then you will need to check the wiring every step of the way.

Posted on Apr 28, 2008



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SOURCE: Nikon Optiphot-2

You can purchase a variable power supply that will light this lamp and control its intensity if you determine that the power supply in the microscope is bad. This may be the easiest way to fix the problem. Parts for many older microscopes are no longer available and this is a common way to repair the microscope. It's also a common modification made to many laboratory instruments for research purposes. Carefully check the lampsocket as well. It's common for them to fail and replacement is the only cure. The lamp socket is not expensive.

Posted on May 22, 2008


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Trying to reverse polarity to 12 volt bulb sockets 1157 type in order to use LED bulbs in my electric scooter.

all of this work when all you need is the correct LED units
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by reversing the polarity at the battery terminals , other items that require a positive feed only , like the ignition module , converter etc will burn out
Flashers work through a relay and by reversing the polarity the coil used to close the points will not work
Replace all of the units that you have damaged by reversing the polarity and just connect the led 's up as you would a normal bulb
All of the rest is from you very limited knowledge of electrics

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The bulb you need is this one:
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You can try to buy it from here:

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Right turn light and rear right tail light is out. Replaced with new bulbs and the lights still will not turn on. Please help.

Either you do not have positive 12 volts or the ground at the bulb holder. With a voltmeter or a 12v tester probe between the two connectors in the bulb holder with the bulb out and tail lights on--
If you do not get anything then probe with one lead --red in the bulb holder (switch the red voltmeter lead between the connections in the bulb holder to get a reading)and the other to a good ground --any bare metal part of vehicle.If you get a reading -that means you do not have ground at the bulb holder.
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Conecting to 120 volts AC

If you want to get more precise, figure out everything in terms of power (watts).

Basic electrical rule 1, 2 and 3:

voltage x current = power

or re-arranged:

current = power divided by voltage

or re-arranged:

voltage = power divided by current

For example, 12V X 2 amps = 24 watts.

or another example, 400 watts divided by 120 Volts = 3.33 amps

A 55W headlight that uses 12V would draw 55 /12 = 4.6 amps @ 12V

A 55 watt light bulb in a lamp at home would draw 55 / 120 = 0.46 amps @ 120V

As the previous post mentioned, inverters are not perfect when convertering 12V into 120V. If the converter consumes 1000W from the 12V battery, then a 90% effecient converter would generate 900W of 120V AC power best case. The other 100W is lost primarily as heat.

The other thing that gets tricky is that these ratings and the formula above are used for resistive loads, like light bulbs or hair dryers. Anything with a motor or transformer is considered an inductive load and can get much more tricky to calculate.

Consequently you need to give your self a safety margin when figuring out how big an inverter you need.

How does work in a practical sense?

Lets say you want an inverter for TV, DVD and Sat. Receiver. Look at the back of TV or in the manual. It should say how many watts it consumes. Lets say it is 400W. The DVD might be 100W and the Sat. receiver 50W - just as an example.

400 + 100 + 50 = 550 Watts. (just as an example)

You might think, well no problem, I'll use a 600 Watt inverter and have 50 watts left over. Depending on your inverter, that 600W might really be 600 x 90% effecient = 540 Watts of AC, less a 20% margin of error for the inductive transformers in the electronic of the TV, DVD and Sat. receiver 540 - 20% = 432 Watts.

Now you can see your 600 Watt inverter isn't big enough to do the job.

If we really need 550 watts of AC, add 10% to make up the effiency loss, then add a safety margin for inductive loads.

550 + 10% = 605 + 20% = 726 Watts.

Sounds more like an 800W inverter fits the job.

What does that mean in terms of wiring the 12V batteries to the inverter?

from the formula above:

current = power divided by voltage

In our example, we have an 800W inverter that runs on 12V

The current would thererfore be:

current = power divided by voltage
current = 800 watts divided by 12V
current = 66 amps.

That is important info because you can not use light gauge wire to carry 66 amps worth of 12V to the inverter nor could you use a 20A fuse to protect your inverter.

Now that's a lot of science for a guy who just wants to run a toaster on an inverter right?

800W / 120V = 6.66 amps

Using garryp's ratio 11:1, 6.66 x 11 = 73 amps.

That is a good ratio with a good safety margin.

This is all just MHO and should not taken as solid technical advise. In other words, don't blame me if you blow yourself up.

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