Low beams comeing on as DRL instead of high beams Drivers side high beam not working. already replaced bulbs and ideas

1996 Chevrolet K1500 Suburban Daytime Running Light Module ...

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bad connection or bad earth check all connection or bulb

Is there two bulbs? High and low beam.

When either the high or low beam light is out in either side, DRL (daytime running lights) indicator will come on. When one bulb goes out, that's a clue the opposite bulb will burn out soon, so its best to replace both bulbs. If it was a fuse issue, both left and right side would be out. If driver side is OK but passenger side is not, then its a bulb issue. A 2006 Honda civic takes 9006 (HB4) low beam bulbs and 9005 (HB3) high beam bulbs. Cheapest is online from Walmart site-2-store. After procuring, wear latex, vinyl, or ANY gloves to keep your (corrosive) oil skin from coming in contact with headlight glass bulbs. Your skin oil will chemically react and cause shorter life span on glass bulbs. Instruction don't tell you this, so you handle with your hands, then need to replace bulbs 3 years later instead of 5 years (or more) in the future. With gloves on, pop the hood and look behind each headlight. Turn counter clockwise to unlock headlight bulb holders. Its a quarter to half turn to unlock bulb holder lock. Replace one bulb at a time so you don't confuse high beam from low beam. The wire has a tab you need to lift to pull out & disconnect wire connector. You might need a slim narrow-**** (NOT phillips) screwdriver to lift the tab; or use your house key. Snap the wire connector to the new bulb, then twist into headlight housing to secure bulb holders, then move on to the next bulb to repeat the procedure. Pict below, 9005 high beam is on the left, 9006 low beam is on the right. Handle by grasping the plastic base, not the glass bulbs. The raised potrusion on the bottom center is where the tab locks onto wire connector. Replace all 4 bulbs now, but in the future, its likely the low beam will wear out before the high beam. In the future, replace only the pair, not all 4. The factory installs inferior bulbs that go out sooner, hoping you'll take to dealership and they ******** you with higher parts-n-labor fees. As opposed to Walmart online site-2-store, it would cost you AT LEAST triple in parts & labor from dealership to replace all 4 headlight bulbs :-(

These trucks are known for bad multifuction switches.
the switch that i talk of is the signal switch , the handle is the switch, it bolts to side of steering column . this switch controls the signals and the headlights and high /low beams. the other thing is the headlight switch connector, the connector some times goes bad and starts to melt or just comes out of the connector. you will need to remove the cover to steering column, the screws are located under the bottom cover in holes. remove cover and check connector and then test for power if you have power going into switch but not coming out then switch is bad.

the last thing is to make sure the bulbs are good , make sure the headlight bulbs are good , and also the driving light bulbs, test for power at the connectors to those lights to.
You will need to do a little testing to find the problem.

CHECK UNDER HOOD FUSE BLOCK FOR FUSES AND CIRCUIT BREAKER AND RELAYS....IF NOT IT IS AN ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSES. USE A MULTI METER TO SEE IF YOU ARE GETTING CLOSE TO 12 VOLTS AT SOURCE!
***NO EASY FIX...ALMOST EVER!!!

[Information] For a 2002 Toyota Camry, the Daytime Running Lights (DRL) operate utilizing the High Beams (inner Lamps closer to the center of the vehicle front) at a reduced power.

[The troubleshooting process:] Review the Owner's Manual and ensure the test configuration matches the following criteria:
1. According to the 2002 Toyota Camry Owner's Manual (Check your Owners Manual):
"The DRL system will make your headlights come on at a reduced brightness when:
The light switch s in the "DRL" position.
The ignition is on with the engine running.
The headlight switch is off.
The parking brake is released."

2. Set the Test Conditions according to Step 1 above.

3. Check the headlight bulbs to ensure they are not burned out. If one burns out, there is a fair chance that the other would have burned out at the same time. Replace as necessary. In this case, if the high beams operate, the DRLs should also operate.
4. Test the system, ensuring the step 1 conditions are set. (Engine running, Multi-function Switch on Turn Signals in "DRL" position, headlight switch off (repeating what the manual says -- it should be obvious that in the "DRL" position, the headlight switch should be off / do not have the switch positioned to "High Beam"), and the Parking Brake "off").
5. If DRL lights do not work, check the engine compartment Fuse and Relay Box. there is a 5 Amp DRL fuse -- replace it with the spare. Test (step 4).
6. If it does not work, swap around or replace relays -- there are three (3). Any one of them could be bad (stuck or burned out). Test (step 4).
7. Other less likely possible issues could be that the Multi-function Switch is broken or a connection / wire is broken. [Beyond the scope of this process.]

My problem was that the test configuration did not have the engine running and parking brake off - Step 1. Problem solved with much thought, repetitive tests on the vehicle and going back to the basics -- what does the Owner's Manual say and where are the applicable fuses and relays located?

you have a blown bulb. just replace the bulb on that side. hope this helps

You can't. Return it to the way it was designed
before your ruin the cars electrical system.

On my 2007 Honda CR-V The DRL code appeared on the dash board. Additionally I had only one high beam (on the passenger side); both low beams were fine, but I did not have a Daytime Running Light on the drivers side. The DRL code was really misleading because the real problem was that the high beam element in the headlight bulb was burned out. Note that the daytime running light is not a seperate bulb -- it is the high beam element which is powered at a low voltage. Once I replaced the head light bulb everything worked fine and the DRL code on the dash board was gone. So if the DRL message appears what you really need to do is replace the headlight bulb (there are YouTube videos which show how to do this - but search for headlight replacement, not for DRL fix). Be careful not to touch the new bulb with you hands since premature burnout can occur from the grease off your skin. I got my bulb from Wal-Mart for $8.88 (it's a 9003/HB2 for the 2007 CR-V) -- that's a pretty cheap fix.