How do i remove chassis from marshallmg50dfx

With nothing plugged in and the noise still there it most likely the output stage of the amp. If the unit is under warranty - tag it, bag it, and send it back for a new one. If not under warranty, you should remove the chassis and inspect for anything loose and spray the guts with zero residue contact cleaner. Use the cleaner liberally. Usually these output noises are the result of loose or dirty components. Clean all the electronics, put it back together and see if that doesn't get rid of the noise.
Good Luck!
Chad

Most likely a loose connection. Try to tighten the knobs and the cord port to the crate. You need to do this from the inside. These tend to loosen with use and anything that is connected with them will also loosen, like the electrical connections. Good luck!

Disconnect the power. Disconnect the speaker cable from the rear of the chassis. Remove the 4 screws from the top of the cabinet. Not the handle...
Wiggle the chassis up and down to disconnect the gaskets and slide it out the back. Pretty easy

Remove the retaining screws from the top and sides of the amp. The handle may need to come off as well. Remove the chassis from the cabinet from the rear by droping the rear of the chassis about 45 degrees and lifting the faceplate over the baffle board.It will be a snug fit.

try plugging into a different socket if that doesnt solve problem you may need to replace cord. sounds like a loose neutral in socket though.

you can either drop out the woofer by removing the screws holding it in or remove the back panel ( #2 phillips screwdriver ) those are the easiest ways into the cabinet.

For the Drive channel you need to use the Drive control AND the MASTER volume control. When the Drive channel is active, the Channel Indicator lamp should be RED indicating the Drive Channel is active. The Drive control knob is used to adjust the preamp volume and distortion level of the Drive Channel. This gives you a clue as to what to check if adjusting the controls doesn't work -- the preamp tubes. Having said that, ONLY try to check these tubes with the amp OFF! Never stick your hand up into the chassis of a live amp. It could be lethal. Your preamp tubes are the ones farthest from where the power cord enters the chassis. They have a rubber like stabilizer on them. They have a tendency to wiggle loose, which is part of the reason for the stabilizer. Again, if you're not familiar with the insides...stay out and get an amp tech to help you.

The Normal Channel only uses the Volume Control to adjust volume.

Could have broken a spring in the reverb tank, or a wire connecting it to the amp, or the reverb driver tube, or a few other things, but those are the most likely in this situation. Thats what I'd check first. Give it a little slap and if it vibrates like normal, your spring is probably ok, you can still open it up and double check though. Check your wires. Then pull your reverb driver tube and replace it. If that doesn't work, it is probably in the circuit somewhere, and you should not work on your amp unless you know what you are doing. They store large amounts of electicity in the caps and they can kill you.

You'll have to remove the amp chassis from the cabinet to get at it. I only came online again today the 27th so I'm sorry I was probably too late to help.Make sure you don't touch anything around the power supply as the capacitors retain a large charge. To partially discharge them, unplug your amp from the wall while it is on and set at low volume levels. Hope I helped.

This is usually caused by oxidation in the potentiometer (fancy name for your volume control, also called a pot). The solution is to buy a small spray can of tuner cleaner, then unplug the amp and partially extract the electronics chassis from the case -- usually by removing screws in the top (but NOT usually the top handle screws), then gently sliding the chassis forward until you can easily see and reach behind your gain knob. You should see a squashed metal cylinder attached thru the faceplate to that knob -- that's the pot. It will probably have 3 wires attached -- don't worry: these never have voltages high enough to feel even when the amp is on. Either near where these wires are attached or elsewhere on that cylinder there should be one or more small holes. Using the small plastic tube that came with that spray can of tuner cleaner, spray a small amount of cleaner into the pot, then turn the gain knob from maximum to minimum and back several times. I usually do this by plugging the amp into a receptacle and moving the knob this way BEFORE using the spray, listening for the noises, then I spray it, manipulate the knob as described and hear the noise disappear. Unless you're confident about doing that, DON'T! Instead, slide the chassis back into the case and plug the amp in, then see if the noise is gone. If so, put in all the screws and you're done. If there's a noticeable improvement, but still some noise, move the knob bank and forth a few more times to see if that fixes it; if not, unplug the amp, slide the chassis out again and repeat the spraying procedure one time, then reassemble the amp and plug it in. If your problem is still not gone, you'll have to replace the pot. If you know how to solder WELL, you can order another volume pot thru a Marshall dealer or online, OR you can remove the pot and take it to a local electronics store where they can probably find an equivalent potentiometer at a lower price than the genuine Marshall part -- be sure to ask for one with "an audio taper" (a logarithmic change in resistance that corresponds to how audio amplifiers control sound). Good luck, and please post your results on this website.