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it sounds like you may have a control board issue. If it started leaving water in the bottom before the dispenser issue, that could have caused the board to go bad. if you had the dispenser issue first, same thing. the main control board is the only thing that sends power to both. if you only replace the control board, then whatever caused the board to go bad to begin with, could cause the new board to go bad quickly.
If this is intermittent if could be bad connections on the control board. After shutting off the power try removing the connectors one at a time from the control board and reattaching them. This will usually fix any bad connections on the board. If it continues the control board may need replacing
So many possible reasons. klystron tube worn out. bad power cord. blown fuse. blown thermal fuse. bad controller board. bad solder joints on the controller board. bad safety interlock switches. bad keypad controller. bad keypad cable, loose keypad cable. corroded keypad cable. bad capacitor.
Amazing what you get for your money, no?
You could have a bad control board. These are notorious for going bad. I had the same issue just the other day. I replaced the control board because the compressor wasn't coming on and the defrost thermistor was also bad causing no defrost. Remove the control board and see if there are any burned spots on the back of the board.
I understand that you want to know if the motor is bad in your Frigidaire Affinity washer, model# ATF7000E, can it cause the motor control board to go bad as well. Just because the motor is bad, does not mean that the motor control board is bad. It depends on what is going on with your appliance. I suggest contacting your local authorized technician for further assistance. They will be able to diagnose your washer and determine exactly what is going on. Hope this is helpful.
Sounds like a fuse on the control board is bad or the control board has failed, the control board can sometimes be reset by leaving the power unplugged for a few hours, then plugging back in, (this will not work if the fuse or control board is bad) if either are bad, they will need to be replaced
Remove the panel from the heater section, you will need to watch what happends as there is a call for heat. There may be a light on the control board that lights up or blinks to indicate a call for heat. The inducer blower (exhaust blower) will start. INn a few seconds after the blower starts, the igniter will glow orange. After a few more seconds the gas valve should open and the burner will ignite. If the inducer does not run, you may have a bad motor or control board. If the igniter does not glow, you could have a bad pressure switch, bad pressure switch hose or a broken igniter. If the gas valve does not open, you may have a bad control board or bad gas valve. If you get no light on control board, bad fuse, bad thermostat or bad control board.
Since you already disassembled the scope-- you can send the board to Ron Sampson and he should be able to repair it. He fixes main boards and hand controllers (including the screen and keyboard on the hand controller!)
If you post a message on the Yahoo LX90 group looking for Ron Sampson he will answer you. You can then email or phone him for instruction on how to send him the board.
ARE YOU SURE it's the board? It could be a bad keyboard or a bad cable on the hand controller. You should get another hand controller and cable and test it before you send it off. Can you borrow a hand controller and cable from anyone.... or from a local scope retailer?
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