Has not ever run properly

Hot air rises so in the winter you want to blow the warm air down. In the summer you want to draw the warm air up.

You have a Freon leak because all the fittings, seals, coils rubber, compressor seals and entire AC system will need to be checked out by someone that can find the problem and resolve them or you will never get this fixed. A/C in cars get hot in the summer and cold in winter and all the seals dry out. The system needs to have all the air and moisture pulled out before any Freon in charged into repaires A/C unit or the system will not cool properly.That is the only way to resolve this Tammy, Thanks Sea Breeze

your heater core is possibly stopped up if there has been a radiator leak and stop leak has been poured its definetly clogged or could be a faulty thermostat

Doesn't matter how hot it was when installed, there still should have been proper start up performed. That means running unit thru all cycles and checking charge. If it was installed this summer then installer should warranty service to return and complete install properly.

Heat pumps defrost which is the AC mode, if the heat strip isnt working during a defrost, the air will be cold, A heat pump only feels warm if the heat strips are on too! the refrigeration cycles heat output is much less sensible to our 98F skin. heat pumps that satisfy a room setpoint are working at least, all heat pumps feel drafty to most.

Is it set on summer switch which is the fan running all the time blowing cold air

Connie this sounds like your thermostat in the engine is stuck open not letting the water stay in the engine block to heat up. The fix is to replace the thermostat with a new one that will allow the water to stay in the block to warm up. The typical symptoms of a stuck open thermostat is that the air will blow somewhat warm but never hot in the winter time, but it will take a few miles for the air to warm up at all. I would check with the dealership and find out what degree thermostat to replace it with. I run a 180 degree in the summer and a 195 degree thermostat in the winter just to have hot heat in the winter. I hope this helps

You sound like you are low on fluid or your thermosstate needs to be change to proper weather (winter or summer). Check it out. Hope you didn't use pure antifreeze ! 50/50 mix... or premixed.

Ceiling Fan Direction These recommendations depend actually on the height and size of the room; the season; and the activity taking place in the room.

The basic fact of nature is that warm air rises to the top and cold air settles on the bottom. Air settles in layers from warm at the top to cold at the bottom, if left alone at equilibrium.

Ceiling fan recommendations:

In the winter
Set the fan to run counterclockwise (reverse; this looks clockwise as you are looking up). This will redirect the warm air from the ceiling and down the walls and into the living space where the people actually are. In a house, you would run the fan at a low speed so that you don't actually cool the warm air that you are moving downward. If you have a high ceiling, or are trying to heat a hall or a church, you may want to increase the fan speed so that the warm air will reach the living space as long as the fan speed does not create an unwanted downdraft at the people below. In the summer
In a room of normal height (8 - 10 ft), you should operate your fan so that it turns clockwise (this looks counterclockwise as you are looking up), causing a more directed downdraft, especially with the fan running slightly faster. This causes a wind-chill effect because the skin evaporates slight amounts of water from the sweat glands and thereby provides cooling through the skin's surface. However, the air is only moved but not cooled! You may find that you can turn your thermostat down a degree or two and save more money on energy costs. The air blowing down won't actually cool the room though, so you should turn the fan off when there are no people (or animals) in the room. In a high hall or church
It may be best NOT to run the fans at all in summer. This lowers the demand for cooling since the hot layer on top is an excellent insulation between the cool air near the floor (and the people) and the hot roof and outside.

A large, tall manufacturing hall would typically have different goals. There one would have a floor full of heat producing machinery plus the people operating it, working hard and welcoming a bit of a breeze. Then it would make sense to run the fans at fairly high speed to create a certain and directed downdraft. And with the shifts going throughout the days of the week, the fans should be running all the time and maybe in all seasons.

Finally, fans typically use 80-100 watts. When used properly, ceiling fans can really help to optimize the comfort level of the people and save energy and money.

Good Luck and please rate 4 thumbs up for the free answer

If your unit is blowing heat inside and it's not a heat pump. It will be most likely electric heat in your case.
Sounds like you have a split unit meaning the condenser is outside and the cooling and the heat features are inside or under your home.If your Rudd is a heat-pump the outside unit will cycle/blow cold air outside in winter and hot air will cycle/blow outside during the summer season. Now, if for some reason the heat  is not coming on inside the house, would be the only reason that you would need to be concerned. Being a heat relay or breaker of could cause that problem. Hope this helps you, Sea Breeze