WHERE DO I CONNECT THE RED AND WHITE WIRES ON THE 32330 MOTOR START RELAY

• Black: Ground
• Blue/White: Power (12V) from HVAC control unit to blower relay
• Blue/Yellow: Power (12V) from blower relay to blower motor
• Blue/Black: Ground from blower motor to chassis

Coming into the back of the motor...
4 wires? Right?
Red, Black, White, and Green
A 2 speed will be 4 wires - additional Red wire
A 1 speed will 3 wires - no Red

The black and red wires are your speed wires,
they will go on to your 'line' connections...labeled on the motor next to the spade connection as 'H' and 'L'

the white wire is your common or neutral wire,
it will go on the space connection with a 'C' next to it.

and the green wire naturally is ground. Normally attached directly to the base of the motor.

I cannot tell you specifically which wire is low-speed or which wire is high-speed. Because different spa control manufacturer's alternate or vary the use of colors for low/high speed. Unfortunately it is not standard. But if I was to venture a guess, the majority of these control manufacturers, use red wire for low speed.

I have also seen at times, that the label is Misprinted. Where the common and low-speed are switched?
in my experience, and I have wired and many, many motors. Both two speed and single speed motors. The common is almost always either at the top of the spade connections, or the middle spade connection, I have never seen in my recent experience, where the common connection is at the bottom.
This in common problem, may or may not be the case for you.

to your question specifically:... Both speed wires are not on the same relay, are they? Or is it a contractor?
(normally two different relays on the circuit board for the different speeds of the pump) Unless there is a normally closed and a normally open spade connection?

is this a mechanical spa control system, or is it a digital electronic, with a circuitboard, spa control system?

on the motor should be a diagram detailing the wires. brown white goes to either side of the capacitor and brown wire to other side of capacitor. hi speed goes to normally open contact on the indoor fan relay and the wire designated common on the motor goes to the other side of power from the relay contacts.

OK -- Here's what to do:
TROY-BILT PONY LT CRANKING CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING

NOTE 1: The following tests are to be made with the parking brake applied and the PTO disengaged unless otherwise specified.

NOTE 2: These tests need only be made until the cause of the problem is located. The entire process need not be completed if the problem has been resolved.

NOTE 3: Refer to the wiring diagram below for understanding of all tersts.

NOTE 4: Wiring Diagram references to Key switch A1 and L terminals refer to the same terminal.

1. With all circuits connected normally, connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the battery positive terminal. The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, go to step 2.
b. If YES, go to Step 3.

2. Connect a DC voltemeter directly across the battery. The voltmeter should read at least 12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, charge or replace the battery.
b. If YES, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 2 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 3.
-- battery negative cable condition
-- battery negative cable connections at the battery
-- battery negative cable connections at the tractor frame

3. With all circuits connected normally, connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the key swttch "B" terminal (Circuit #97 - red/white wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, go to step 4.
b. If YES, go to Step 8.

4. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the starter relay BAT terminal (Circuit #94 - heavy red wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 4 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 5.
-- battery positive cable condition
-- battery positive cable connections at the battery
-- battery positive cable connection at the starter relay
b. If YES, go to Step 5.

5. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the fuse holder BAT terminal (Circuit #92 - red wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 5 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 6.
-- Circuit 92 wire condition
-- Circuit 92 wire connection at the starter relay
-- Circuit 92 wire connection at the fuse holder
b. If YES, go to Step 6.

6. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the fuse holder protected circuit terminal (Circuit #97 - red & white wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 6 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 7.
-- 20A fuse condition
-- fuse holder condition
-- fuse holder wire connections
b. If YES, go to Step 7.

7. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the key switch "B" terminal (Circuit #97 - red & white wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 7 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 8.
-- Circuit 97 wire condition
-- Circuit 97 connection at fuse holdser
-- Circuit 97 connection at key switch
b. If YES, go to Step 8.

8. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the key switch "S" terminal (Circuit #80 - orange wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 8 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 9.
-- key switch assembly
b. If YES, go to Step 9.

9. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the parking brake switch Circuit #80 terminal (Circuit #80 - orange wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6
VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 9 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 10.
-- Circuit 80 wire condition
-- Circuit 80 connection at key switch
-- Circuit 80 connection at parking brake switch
b. If YES, go to Step 10.

10. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the parking brake switch Circuit #70 terminal (Circuit #70 - orange & black wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at
least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 10 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 11.
-- parking brake switch assembly mounting and adjustment
-- parking brake switch assembly condition
b. If YES, go to Step 11.

11. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the PTO switch Circuit #70 terminal (Circuit #70 - orange & black wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6
VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 11 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 12.
-- Circuit 70 wire condition
-- Circuit 70 connection at parking brake switch
-- Circuit 70 connection at PTO switch
b. If YES, go to Step 12.

12. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the PTO switch Circuit #60 terminal (Circuit #60 - orange & white wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6
VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 12 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 13.
-- PTO switch assembly mounting and adjustment
-- PTO switch assembly condition
b. If YES, go to Step 13.

13. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the starter relay Circuit #60 terminal (Circuit #60 - orange & white wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least
+12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 11 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 14.
-- Circuit 60 wire condition
-- Circuit 60 connection at PTO switch
-- Circuit 60 connection at starter relay
b. If YES, go to Step 14.

14. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the starter relay MOT terminal (Circuit #93 - heavy red wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, did the relay make a single heavy "click" noise?
1. if YES, replace the starter relay and repeat Step 14 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 15.
2. If NO, connect a DC voltmeter DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the battery negative terminal and the red (POS) lead to the starter relay frame. With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read a maximum of +0.1 VDC.
a. If YES, replace the starter relay and repeat Step 14 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 15.
b. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 14 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 15.
-- starter relay mounting
b. If YES, go to Step 15.

15. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the starter motor BAT terminal (Circuit #93 - heavy red wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 15 test. If YES on retest, but the starter motor does not engage, go to Step 16.
-- Circuit 93 cable condition
-- Circuit 93 cable connection at starter relay
-- Circuit 93 cable connection at starter motor
b. If YES, but the starter motor does not engage, go to Step 16.

16. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the battery negative terminal and the red (POS) lead to the starter motor frame . With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read a maximum of +0.2 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 16 test. If YES on retest, but the starter motor does not engage, go to Step 16b.
-- starter motor mounting to engine
-- engine mounting to tractor frame
b. If YES, but the starter motor does not engage, replace the starter motor.


REFERENCE PART NUMBERS PER WIRING DIAGRAM:

Note that your specific tractor may use differnt part numbers. You can obtain a Parts List specific to your tractor online, at no charge, from Troy-Bilt at www.troybilt.com -- your full model number and serial number are required.

Key Switch 725-04228 (common alternatives are 925-04227B & 925-04659)Parking Brake Switch 725-1657A (common alternative is 725-04363)
PTO Switch 725-1657A (common alternative is 725-04363)
Starter Relay 725-04439

Also note that the starter motor is an engine manufacturer supplied part.

This might be a ground wire loose somewhere. Or a hot wire exposed to a ground. Electrical problems are the worst part of a car to fix. Try to replace just the wires or the entire harness to the fan relay.
Hope this helps.

Mars 32330 part in place of the p6r8mc less than $10.00

need brand and model number .

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

If the starter relay in your version uses blue / white and red / white wires, then to my understanding, connection would be:

• blue / white - goes to the start switch and is supplied with +12 on starting;
  
• red / white - goes to the starter circuit cut-out relay. This cut-out relay controls whether the starting relay gets a ground based on neutral/gear and clutch lever conditions.
  

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

I have this alarm / remote start / keyless entry system and I have the poorly translated installation manual. Everything in mine installed fine in my 2005 suzuki aerio (except the power locks as the manual is worthless in that area) but I have heard nothing but horror stories from others online since I installed it.

I don't recommend you install it but if you really are determined, here is what the manual says (or tried to say and I spent 4 hrs interpretting / correcting it:

8 wire harness:
-- The 4 wire connector connects to the 4 wires harness part of the 3 relays
-- The yellow connects to the yellow of the breaker relay yellow
-- yellow w/black stripe connects to the oil sensor on the motor (look for single wire connected to sensor and generally a heat shield wrap/weave, mine was blue)
-- orange connects to the brake switch on the brake pedal
-- the blue connects to the door switch /dome light trigger

12 wire harness:
-- 6 central locking wires orange, yellow, and white plus the same 3 with black stripe.. Unfortunately the manual is not clear as to where they connect. The next page of the manual shows diagrams but they mysteriously add a white stripe to all the colors and the white wires apparently become green. I suspect that orange is not likely used in most installations and for positive door lock types (the most popular), yellow goes to unlock and yellow w/ black stripe goes to lock signal and the 2 whites go to 12v+. This is only a guess so don't hold me to it.
-- black is grounded to frame
-- Red is 12v+
-- red w/ black stripe goes to power trunk release (if equipped)
-- The 2 browns go to the left and right turn signals
-- The pink goes to the alarm

Ignition switch connections
----------------------------------------
The breaker relay:
-- blue goes to the ACC ON wire
-- Cut the ignition wire and connect the 2 greens to each end
-- Yellow connects to the yellow of the 8 wire harness

The 3 relays:
-- 4 wire harness connects to the 4 wire connector of the 8 wire harness
-- the 3 reds connects to the 12v+ red of the ignition switch (or thru the firewall to the battery)
-- black connects to the ignition on the downstream side of the 2 greens of the breaker relay
-- white connects to ACC ON
-- blue connects to the starter

Some one missed the wiring diagram. I believe its like this:
L1 = Line 1 = (Hot all are same thing)
Black Hi
Blue Med
Red LO
Now usually the black is for AC and connects to a normally Open (NO) contact on the blower relay.
The heater speed (either red or blue) go the the normally Closed (NC) on the blower relay and on one side of this wire or contact on the relay it goes to the heating blower thermostat on the furnace.
The remaining wire (blue or red) you tape off.
L1 also feeds the Run Capacitor on 1 side and the Brown wire feeds the opposite side

The white wire is Neutral and goes to the neutral on the main line.

If this helps you please rate me accordingly and good luck.