Question about Kenmore 95592 / 95594 / 95595 / 95599 Electric Kitchen Range

2 Answers

Bottom element will not turn off

My bottom element is constantly heating.  The controls show that the oven is off, but the element continues to heat.  The only way I can get it to turn off is to turn off the breaker to the oven.  And as soon as I turn the breaker back on, the element automatically starts heating again.

About a month ago I got an F1 code on the oven.  I turned it off, tried again, and got the F1 code a couple more times.  I then turned the breaker off and back on and had no more problems until today.  Today I got no code on the oven - just the constant heating of the bottom element.

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  • 3 more comments 
  • mktup Oct 31, 2007

    Thanks for the info.  My oven is a Kenmore model 790.95592100.  Thanks again!

  • rkjtg Dec 11, 2007

    I have a Kenmore model 665.95822003 and have the same problem with the bottom element turning on without the stove being on..we also are having to turn it off with the circuit breaker.



    Ideas?

  • jmunster Feb 11, 2008

    I have the same problem except it is my broiler element that won't shut off. Does that mean I also have a bad EOC board?

  • Anonymous Sep 09, 2008

    if i put my oven on say at 2oodegrees it will get as high as it can and will not stop getting hotter unless i shut it off its unreal how hot it gets and stays i could have had a fire the stove got so hot and fryed my meat to nothing should i throw stove out its 11 years old bought at sears

  • mikey68 Jan 31, 2009

    I can not turn off the bottom element I have to turn off the breaker to turn off the oven.

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Your BAKE element relay on the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) Board is shorted.  I have experienced this problem before.  The board is not serviceable and (unfornately) you will have to replace it.  The board can run anywhere from $100 to $200 for a new one.  Slightly less for a refurbished one.  Prices will also vary depending on source.  This is a repair you can do yourself if you choose to do so.  If you can provide me with your model number (located inside the lower door panel), I can do some research to get a part number and price for you.  Let me know.  I hope this is helpful.

Posted on Oct 31, 2007

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Nov 01, 2007

    The Electronic Oven Control (or Electronic Clock Control as this one is called) costs $125.95 for a new board.  The overlay (which is the display covering that has all the printed words and buttons on it that covers the EOC) costs and additional $33.80.  If the overlay is not damaged it can be reused if you carefully peel the old one off the defective EOC.  The part numbers are as follows:

    Electronic Clock Control  1055158
    Overlay  833036

    If you decide to repair this yourself (which it can be done by the do-it-yoursefler) the parts can be found at repairclinic.com.  You order on line, choose the shipping method you would like, and the parts are shipped directly to you within a week.  Even at $125 it's still cheaper to repair it than buy a new stove.  Let me know if I can be of further assistance.

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Baking element will not turn off. when I unplug the oven and plug it back up baking element. gets hot again. Need to know what I need to fix this problem

Posted on Jun 07, 2011

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My Corriander model oven - stovetop works well, but the oven is completely "dead".


THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!



On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.


: rememberI offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

Dec 07, 2016 | Fisher and Paykel Ovens

1 Answer

Frigidaire oven


ELECTRIC OVENS:
CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

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