Sound of steel when the tub is running

You sound competent enough to figure this out.

shock absorber, whats the make and model?

You likely have a corroded/broken spinner assembly on the back of the inner tub. If your washer is out of warranty it is usually cost-prohibitive to repair. We usually quote about $350-$400 parts and labor for it. If you can wiggle the inner basket relative to the outer, that confirms a broken spinner.

Try this at your own risk. Step 1 Consider using a product made for stainless steel such as Scratch-B-Gone or Bar Keepers Friend (see Tips).

Step 2 Or, try spraying an all-purpose cleaner (such as Formula 409) on the scratches.

Step 3 Use a non-metal scouring pad (such as Scotch-Brite pads) to rub the cleaner in, always rubbing in the direction of the grain.

Step 4 Keep the stainless steel wet with the cleaner as you work, and rinse the pad often.

Step 5 Rinse the surface and wipe dry.

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Tips & Warnings

• Before using any treatment on your stainless cookware, sink or appliances, it is wise to call the manufacturer for advice.
• A new product called Scratch-B-Gone is touted as the "first aid kit for stainless steel." You can find it at many home improvement stores.
• Bar Keepers Friend is another product for stainless steel. It can be found in most grocery or home improvement stores, or at www.barkeepersfriend.com.
• To keep stainless steel sinks from scratching, put a rubber mat in the bottom of the sink to protect it.
• Avoid using abrasive

Please rate 4 thumbs for the free answer

use a scotchbrite pad , or a scouring pad with soapy warm water

remember to keep it simple. im thinking this is ge. if so, hold door switch in and spin tub while someone is holding start button in. hope this helps. please rate me.

it sounds like you have run out of brake linings and the remaainder of the pads(steel backing plates)are now jammed against the disc,you will need to very carefully put a screwdriver between the disc and caliper to push the pistons back,once you have donethat you should be able to unbolt the caliper and remove it from the bike,you will need a new set of brake pads and possibly a new disc as it will no doubt be quite badly scored

OK GET A PENCIL. JACK THE CAR UP AND REMOVE THE WHEEL. REMOVE THE TWO BOLTS ON THE BACK-SIDE OF THE CALIPER. THEY MAY HAVE PLASTIC CAPS ON THEM TO PREVENT DIRT AND WATER TO GET INSIDE THEM. YOU MAY NEED AN ALLEN KEY TO UNBOLT THEM. THEN USING A FLAT-HEAD SCREWDRIVER BETWEEN THE PADS AND PISTON CAREFULLY PRY THE OPENING OF THE CALIPER OPPOSITE THE LUGS, TO LOOSEN THE PADS ENOUGH TO REMOVE THE CALIPER. SUPPORT THE CALIPER WITH A BUNGEE CORD OR ROPE TO THE COILSPRING. THEN USING THE OLD INBOARD BRAKE PAD IN PLACE, TAKE A 6 INCH C-CLAMP AND COMPRESS THE PISTON(S) BACK INTO THE CALIPER TO ALLOW THE NEW PADS TO FIT. P.S. AS THE OLD PAD WEARS, THE PISTON SLOWLY, OVER TIME, COMES OUT OF THE CALIPER TO GRIP THE ROTOR. OKAY THEN INSTALL THE NEW PADS MAKING SURE THEY ARE INSTALLED WITH THE BLACK STEEL SIDE NOT TOUCHING THE ROTOR. INSTALL THE CALIPER BOLTS AND TIGHTEN SNUGLY. YOU WILL NOTICE A SPACE IN BETWEEN THE ROTOR AND THE NEW PADS. GENTLY PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL 2 OR 3 TIMES UNTIL THE PEDAL GETS HARD AGAIN. INSPECT THE PADS AND CALIPER, AND REPLACE WHEEL. REPEAT ON THE OTHER SIDE. BE SAFE WHEN JACKING UP AND WORKING NEAR A CAR ON A JACK. USE JACK-STANDS IF AVAILABLE. THIS SHOULD BE ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW. HOPE THIS HELPS. KEEP ME POSTED PLEASE. THANK YOU FOR AN HONEST RATING AND FOR USING FIX-YA. GOOD LUCK

by damper pads you mean three curved felt pads that come in one package.if yes yes i can tell you but it wont be the funnest thing you ever did .on a service call i would complete this job in about one hour,but you have more time than i. had to move on to the next call and did not want to return[to let glue dry enough and then reassemiable]here goes older maytag two belts under neath! 1 remove front panel and screws from top, so can hinge back. 2 there are three or four big springs that go from tub to floor.next,you need to mark the spot that the nuts are tightened too on those eye bolts that springs are attached too. take black tape and wrap around treads above the nut on the eye bolts so will know where to re tighten too. 3 loosen and undo hose at tub that goes to pump and at top of washer tub where water comes in .4 then under neath the washer remove those nuts that you applied black tape to the eye bolts i thinks 7/16 or 3/8[will have to spin belts off also]now tub should move freely.5 here's the trick,i use a 4'' round pvc coupler on its end and place under neath the washer,center trainee pulley and pull the washer up onto it , this then lifts the whole tub assemblie up so now can get to snubber pads.6 peal off old pads and clean ,glue in new pads and let set for long time[hours],[i did not have that time on service calls so when droped tub back down,some time pads moved]7 when dry add your silicone grease that came with pads.8 put unit back together.now if tub to loose you can tighten those nuts on the eye bolts more,but don't too much because tub dose need to move so the energy when tub out of balance can be transferred to springs and not all the way thru to the bottom deck,which would happen if springs to tight.i hope this helps God bless ,tom.....ps the glue l used for pads was the same glue i use for dryer felt seals.that glue came with the felt seals so i always had it around[free] im not sure which glue to advise you to use,but needs to be good stuff,tom.........also if i have been helpfil please remember to help me with my ratings

sounds like a heater core