Question about Samsung DLP HL-P5663W 56" TV

4 Answers

SAmsung DLP Model # HZN617WX/XAA

My TV will not come back on.
I have replaced the DLP Lamp and also the lamp ballast.
When I turn the unit on it will make a sound like R2D2 in STars Wars and then it sound like it is trying to turn on put I get no picture or sound at all.
When I look at the back of the unit I can see two little green lights that turn on. Should there be more?
What should I do next?
Thanks Dan

Posted by Dan Martinez on

  • 3 more comments 
  • Dan Martinez Nov 01, 2007

    The lights are blinking.

    But I also do in a new lamp ballast already.

    What should I do next?

    Thanks Dan

  • camram Nov 25, 2007

    I have a 61" samsung DLP tv one of the earlier models. I chaged the lamp about one year ago. I have a problem when I turn on the tv, it sounds like the tv is trying to come on but i get no picture and the power switch keeps on turning on and off.

  • rad55 Nov 19, 2008

    I am having the same problem with a 42 inch DLP I replaced the lamp but still no picture and makes the same noises as Danny is describing??

  • Anonymous Jan 06, 2009

    I have a 617 and it just started to do the same thing no pix no sound on and off cycling

  • Anonymous Apr 28, 2009

    Ok, I have a simular issue. I have pic but no sound. Got a new bulb and housing but it didn't solve the problem. TV also cycles on and off every 20 seconds. What do I change now? The ballast?



4 Answers


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It sounds like the ballast that powers your lamp is bad. What are the indicator lights on the front of the tv doing?

Posted on Oct 31, 2007

  • Anonymous Nov 02, 2007

    you can try making sense of the troubleshooting below otherwise give an email address and i will send the file

    When the
    Timer, Lamp,
    and Abnormal
    LED indicators
    flicker simulta-
    Ballast CN2 terminal
    Ballast CN1 terminal
    *When measuring voltage,
    make sure to measure the
    voltage between the two
    1. If the 3 LED indicators flicker from the time the set is
    turned on, it means:
    1) The CN106 connector on the DMD board is not inserted
    2) The MDR cable that connects the DIGITAL board to the
    DMD board is not connected properly.
    3) If the lamp does not turn on even after turning it on three
    times, by powering off/on 15 second intervals:
    ! The B+ 380V power is not supplied to the ballast
    (The cable is not connected properly between the power
    and the ballast.)
    @ The cable connected to the CN110 terminal on the
    DMD board and the CN2 terminal on the ballast is short-
    circuited or not connected.
    # The lamp does not turn on because 5V has not been
    supplied to blue pin #1 on the CN2 terminal of the
    $ 5V is supplied to the CN2 terminal on the ballast but the
    lamp does not turn on because the ballast has a failure.
    (If the lamp is replaced and 5V is supplied normally to
    the CN2 terminal, suspect a ballast failure if the lamp still
    does not turn on.)
    % The ballast is normal but the lamp doest not turn on.
    (When 5V is supplied to CN2 and 385V to CN1, but the
    lamp does not turn on, try replacing the lamp. If it turns
    on, that means it was a lamp failure.)
    4) The color wheel engaged to the engine does not operate,
    or the connector which indicates the operation of the
    color wheel is not connected properly, and therefore
    does not allow the lamp to turn on. The cause can be
    determined when the set still does not turn on after
    attempting to turn it on three times.
    5) Another digital board or the DMD board has a failure.
    Conclusively, if the three LED indicators flicker, first
    check the above five items, then check the various
    connector connections, and then suspect a failure of the
    lamp or the ballast.
    MDR cable
    Color wheel
    Color wheel index connector
    Lamp connector




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Probably a bad or broken color wheel.Very common with Samsung DLP.If the wheel doesn't start to turn,the lamp ballast won't fire the lamp.

Posted on Jan 10, 2009



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Posted on Oct 18, 2009


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I was having flickering, and then blackout, overeat and lamp led's blinking. I figured it was all dusty inside. I pulled the back cover, removed the screws holding the light housing in. (3) brass screws are visible through smaller door opening, top left screw holds light box, screws along bottom holds ballast board in, took top left screw out, pulled light box out, had plug on bottom side, very nice. Then I lifted the board out, it has (2) plugs to it, 1 big two wire plug outside edge of board, I removed this plug to pull out the ballast board, removed visable dust, then replaced board, visually no burned connections or resistors, tighhtened screws to secure board, reversed all disssembly actions in order above, dusting as I went. All good so far put the cover back on so the blue switch behind it is in the down pos. helpful info for testing, power on w/small door removed, (trip switch to down position gently) will allow you to test before final closing !!!!DANGEROUS!!!! but useful for the trouble shooting I could have avoided later see why. Do at your own risk, I was fine but I only touched what i knew wasnt live, screws and plastic cover to lightbulb box. I did final closing and tried it out. NOTHING, Oh my what have I done, I took a 20 min. break and gathered my thoughts. I went back in, I got more light on the area I was in, the other smaller plug w/wires I didn't detail earlier now comes into play, it's a 5 wire mini white clip plug 4-white, 1 blue at end of clip, it was still plugged in on the ballast end but on the opposite end of the wire, unplugged. So small I could'nt find recepticle for it, looked in the area of where it was laying (it ran up to the top of a silver cover w/ holes allover) Almost all the way to the right on top of the holed panel was a plug. I took apart the fan assembly (after that there are three spring loaded screws, holding cooling fins to the panel, very light tension, nothing pops out, but dont lose the springs when you pull the screws out) to remove that panel because the wire group wasn't long and had a clear plastic sleeve over it and I knew it went somwhere, tilted the holed panel toward me and saw the plug (very sneaky), plugged it in (it only goes one way) and reassembled the fan assembly which may not have needed to be disassembled, but made it easier I'm sure. I didn't take the light or ballast out this time, so it was easier. Now the trick from earlier, I plugged it in and gently engaged the small blue switch to the down position. Asked assistant to power on while I held the switch down to check airflow, light coming on, ballast firing, all good ,everything worked and great. Powered down at the main switch, waited about 1 1/2 minutes until fan stopped, reinstalled cover, powered back up, good as new. maybe that plug became somehow dislodged on yours, unknowingly as mine did because of the similar symptoms no picture, no sound and repeated attempts to fire. I was extremely careful it still was not enough. It fixed it though. Scoundrel to savior all in the same day, nice. Take a look to see if that wire was removed some how and try to plug it back in. If not, sorry, I was so happy I wanted to help someone else save some money if possible. I repeat, I do not condone the removal of the cover as pertaining to warranty concerns or safety. I did, but I may have been the lucky or crazy one. It worked for me and I would do it again and better next time.

Posted on Nov 15, 2007

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Dec 09, 2015 | Televison & Video


How to Replace the Ballast in a Samsung DLP

Fist what is a TV ballast?

A television's ballast is a device connected to the lamp that provides an electric current, keeping the lamp operational. If you have a new lamp that isn't working properly, then you will more than likely need to replace the ballast. Replacing your television's ballast is less challenging than working with other parts of a Samsung Television, and is something that you should be able to do yourself.

  1. Remove the back panel of your Samsung DLP television, and then remove the lamp.
  2. Carefully unscrew the cover sensor switch, which should be located near the bottom-right side.
  3. Remove the two screws holding the lamp connector in place and slide it out.
  4. Remove the screws holding the inside unit of the TV in place, and very carefully ease the right side out, allowing access to the ballast.
  5. Unscrew the circuit board, remove the two cables going to the existing ballast and replace it with the new ballast in the same fashion.
  6. Put the inside unit of the television back in place and screw it in.
  7. Reattach the cover sensor switch.
  8. Reinstall the lamp and screw the back panel of the television back into position.
hope it works..

this is a image of the ballast of a Samsung .


on Mar 25, 2010 | Televison & Video


Damage or Fire Warning on Samsung DLP Television

I was reading some articles in a website and i found out that there is a problem with the Samsung DLP.

If you don't install firmly the connectors may cause damage to both the ballast and the lamp and maybe you can get small fire...

i will add a picture of the connector and the link to the blog.

so if you are installing your TV lamp do it the correct way so this wont happen..

good luck

this is a connector image..




Please read carefully! has identified a potential hazard that may severely damage your Samsung TV with lamp code BP96-01653A!
Samsung DLP lamp units, model BP96-01653A may fail due to improper insertion. We discovered this while doing some tests on these enclosures. If you don’t install the BP96-01653A firmly into the TV, the housing connector may cause damage to both the ballast and the lamp—or even worse a fire.
You’ll know immediately if there’s something wrong because as soon as you turn your television on, and there’s white smoke emanating from the back of your television.
You should shut your television off immediately and open your lamp door and pull out that lamp. Inspect it and hopefully, you’ve just burned the connectors to the ballast, and not the ballast itself. Our testing has only caused the connectors to burn or melt, but don’t take any chances—we’ve never seen a fire, but we also don’t rule out the possibility of fires either.
Here is a correct installation method and the reasons why a bad installation will cause the connectors to burn:
Regarding the installation of a BP96-01653A lamp unit into a Samsung DLP Television.
Step 1
Figure A – Open panel, lamp unit removed
You must install the lamp unit to fit snug with the ballast connector.
To do this, align the lamp unit with the female ballast connector facing down, on the bottom side of the enclosure, then slide the lamp unit until it snaps into place. Check to make sure the unit is firmly inside the television.
Step 2 install_images_bp96-01653a_02.jpg
Figure B – Snapping the lamp into place
Snap the wire brackets in tightly by lifting the bottom set up to meet with the top bracket. The wire bracket keeps the lamp and lamp enclosure seated properly to reduce the risk of fire.
when installed properly, the unit should sit secure and slightly elevated from the floor of the compartment.
Step 3 install_images_bp96-01653a_03.jpg
Figure C – Close back panel securely
Once the lamp is firmly secure, close the back panel to engage the blue lamp door sensor switch. Leaving the door open will prevent the television from starting up.

Important Damage or Fire Warning
Because of the nature of the ballast or lamp driver, there is a risk of damage or fire to your television set.
The ballast ignites the lamp with up to 20kV of electricity to arc the gas tube inside. If the ballast does not have a firm connection with the lamp unit, the arc will occur between the ballast connectors (from the ballast to the lamp), which may cause a fire, or melt your plastic connectors. Indications of this are a rapid clicking sound, a burning smell, and/or a non-functioning lamp. If you improperly install the lamp into your television causing a ballast or lamp failure, this may void your warranty for the television or the lamp product.

on Mar 23, 2010 | Televison & Video

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