Alpine MRP-M650 : Power LED turns on but no sound. All the connections are made. Subs have been tested on another amp.

Check your speakers and speaker wires to make sure you have no shorts or grounds. Not knowing what vehicle you are putting the amp in, there is also a possibility that there may be a stock amp in the vehicle. If this is the case, you may have to rewire the speakers and bypass the stock amp.

sub spec 250watts per coil you should be just fine I have 2 typr 15s on orion hcca 2500 1 and it kicks a$$ thats 1000 watts over the rated limits of the subs only shut the amp down once these subs can take a lot more power than they say just use your common sence with the volume and gain levels

sounds like a short. did you check the amp fuse and the fuse on the power wire (under the hood) make sure there are no wires touching. most common is the wires to the sub touching on the amp. let me knwo if that helped

Any time that there is a rattling sound from the subs, that indicates that they are probably blown. How were the subs tested ok? If the resistance of the subs is still close to OK, that is good, but it doesn't necessarily indicate that they are working properly.
Try using different subs at a lower volume, or turning down the gain slightly.

It sounds like it may be going into a protect mode. You may be overloading the amp. You might want to go higher impedance and take it easy on the amp. The internal power supply MAY be collapsing under the load.

Don't believe all the numbers that manufacturers put out... we call that "Specsmanship"... in other words INFLATED numbers so you buy ours instead of theirs.

• make sure the subwoofer level is up on the head unit.
• Make sure the RCA cables are good.
• Make sure the remote wire is connected and has 12v+ when the head unit is on.

If the remote wire is not turning on the amp, its not going to work. To hot wire it to see if thats the problem, just run 12v+ to the remote jack. That will turn on the amp.

Sounds like the amps needing more current available to it-You should have 4 gauge power coming off the battery going into a distribution block from there a 4 gauge to a 1 farad capacitor off the block -4 gauge to the ground for the capacitor -and two + leads from the block to your amps-you would do well with 6 gauge there.- That is to ensure that you have plenty of power on tap when needed and not trying to draw it off your charging system on heavy current demands.Make sure that your grounds are well placed and solidly connected. As for putting 600+watts on a pair of 8z......i hope that they are the CVR or the L5 / L7 series to take that much power,I've seen it done and the ones i heard sounded badass(L7 series)-but that was at the stereo shop so they had they stuff on HITTN status up in there. If your running the "cvr" or the "comp" series you might be throwing too much power on them -might want to step up your subs to a set of 12s just to get more air moving in there- good luck

as far as it staying on it may have been wired to your hot unstead of your remote on your radio

when it runs wide open it gets hot
how are your gains

I have an alpine and I just hooked up jl 12 w3s and it kinda j did what yours did
it played.. hit hard then no subs.. my mids and highs platyed, but until I would turn off the car and restart the radio the subs immediately came on and the subs are only connected to this aplpine mrp m 650 amp

what speakers and what ohm did they wire it too?

i think my problem was I was overloading my amp feeding it a 2 ohm load or a one ohm load and it was shutting down my subs.. protectection I suppose?

The amplifier may be overloaded, check to see if it can handle 4 OHM loads and 2 OHM loads. if it turns off at high volume the amp may be overloaded. if so try a 8 OHM load. if it still turns off it may be an internal problem.

The built in power supply is probably bad. This supplyds the voltage from the 12volts and inverts it up to 20 to 30 mvolts DC. You will need to get a manual to service this unless you know the inverter circuit really well. good Luck