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You need to find out if it is because of the system control turning off the ballast lamp driver or the fact that the ballast or lamp is not defective measure the connection volts from the mother board to the ballast (NOT THE 350-400 VOLTS FROM THE MAIN SUPPLY RAIL) this will then confirm it may be an over sensitive temperature sensor.
try to check first if there is a voltage input in to your ballast before replacing it. If there is a current going to your ballast and the bulb still not powering for sure the ballast is defective and you can replace it.
The "bulb" indication means that the lamp has not "fired". This can be due to a defective lamp or a defective ballast. Since you have replaced the lamp, I would next chack the ballast. A professional service shop should be able to help with this. It is extremely rare for a lamp to be delivered defective.
the 5v from the power supply is just the signal voltage. the ballast, once ignited, sends about 350vdc to strike the lamp for a few seconds then lowers to 40vdc to maintain it. unfortunately, $261 is a standard price for it.
The five blinks indicates a lamp driver failure. The lamp driver is commonly called a ballast. Odd thing is that these set rarely have ballast failure. But the microprocessor in your set thinks the ballast is defective and is rendering the five blink code.
yes it is high resistance could be your balast... do you hear the arc in the spark gap on the ballast?
if not you may have no power to the ballast as in an open fuse or the ballast is defective or your bulb is defective ..they may not look blown.
The ballast uses open ended high voltage. Both the start current, and the running voltage must be verified.
Normaly the ballast is replaced unless you have the test jigg which is essentialy the specified lamp simulator.
If there is a sensor fault that indicates there may be a potential cooling problem, or an unsafe fault condition (bad socket), or if the lamp is sensed as being defective, the ballast will be shut down.